Rebirth of Monster Mudder

Finally got around to putting the transmission back together this evening. Planning on putting it into the truck tomorrow morning if things go as planned....

Getting closer to having my little welding trailer built. Think I have everything welded on it now, just need to clean it up, then start prepping it for POR 15 coating.

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My son practicing
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Turbo came out to see me while working on stuff out in the shop... She's ready to start getting dirty out there.
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Finished up installing the transmission tonight by putting the blanket on, zip tying some wires up and filling it up with fluid. Truck moves forward and backward.... always a good sign. Have some custom delivery valves and holders showing up tomorrow to slip into and try out this weekend.

Got the trailer flipped up and washed and metal prepped it last night and tonight applied a coat of por 15 on it.

Washed and metal prepped, waiting for it to dry out.
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Dryed after metal prep
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Coated in Por 15
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Got the delivery valves and holder switched out tonight and had to adjust my idle down after we bled the lines. Idles at 1900 after the switch, dropped it back down to just over 1k.

Almost have my little welding trailer finished, just need to paint the inside of the tool box after the outside dries tonight and cut the mounting chains for the bottles, then I can mount the welder and bottles on it.

Little foggy in the shop after starting the truck
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All painted
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Well, went to the last race of the season we are racing yesterday. Left the house at 4:30am and got home at 2am last night, made for a long day. I raced in 3 classes, a cut tire class, a 40" dot tire class and a 38.5" dot tire class. The first two passes were good, but not good enough against the light stripped down trucks. My 3rd pass, the trans quit pulling about 1/2 way through the pit. Had to get pushed onto the trailer last night to head home.

Not sure what it is, but feels like slipping clutches, so wondering if I broke another beveled plate in direct or if it's something else.

Class 12 run:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h2GEZe_V67Y

Class 6 run:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UoTr1OovV_0

Class 11 run:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa4t_x-GklI

Friday as I went to wash and load the truck, found the front drivers side wheel bearings were locked up, changed it on the trailer friday before having to leave for a wedding. I did get my welding trailer finished and assembled.

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Finally had a chance to get the truck washed and limp it into the shop and tucked it away. Think I've come to the conclusion that I'm geared too high for the transmission to live. Looking at run data, and just can't seem to get wheel speed up before the trans starts to shell itself. Going to regear the truck over the winter, moving from 5.13's front and back to 6.17's in the rear dana 70 and 5.86's in the front to get a faster turning wheel in the front to help get through the pits. The trans lived as long as I stayed in 2nd gear, but moving to 3rd, took it out on that last run.

Not sure what else I'm going to do to the truck over the winter yet. Thinking about ordering the supplies to make some molds of the fenders and front nose of the truck and see if I can figure out this carbon fiber part making process. Also looking at either moving my front axle forward around 6" or moving the engine / trans back and thus moving the cab back as well. Moving the axle looks like a much better way of doing it.

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They carbon fiber is just like fiberglass layup. And if it's painted, even better. Most carbon fiber panels are just a layer or 2 of carbon, and a few of fiberglass to make them more rigid. The additional cost of carbon isn't worth it if you are gonna be doing mostly fiberglass anyways (for strength and rigidity) and it be painted.

And always vacuum bag the mold with the resin in, it makes the part so much stronger and lighter, and air bubbles go away too.
 
I've been doing a lot of research into the whole CF process and talked to Randy at OSF as well about it. I plan on doing vacuum infusion for my parts. The layup I'm looking at using is single layer of 3k CF, layer of 2mm Baltek Mat, and single layer of 3k CF.

Will need to build an aluminum frame support for the grill to support the hood end on the nose side and aluminum brakets to mount the front fenders. Looks like a good time to buy a tig gun setup for my tweco multiprocess welder.

I will make molds off of the existing parts I have, but want to shrink both the front and rear fenders to make them smaller and stick out less. They don't keep mud off the truck anyway, but have to technically have fenders in classes I run in, if I didn't, I wouldn't have the fenders on it in the first place.
 
It could just be that you broke the plate in direct again if it happened after shifting to 3rd. A different plate would probably solve that issue.


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I'm betting I did break that plate in direct again, will pull the trans out after I get back from Seattle and tear it down. Trying to get caught up on things around the shop and farm before I leave Sunday.

built something new for the shop today before I finished mowing the yard... A funnel tree

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I like the funnel tree idea! I've always just used an old windshield washer fluid jug :hehe:
 
Yeah, I was getting tired of them laying on a shelf taking up space when they weren't used and them dripping all over the place after they were used.

Placed an order for a set of race car scales today so I can truly see where the truck is currently at weight and balance wise also ordered the vacuum pump I will need to do vacuum infusion with for the CF parts. They should be here when I get back from my business trip
 
Finally got both trucks in the shop for the winter, had to set a deadline for my daughter to get her truck washed....

Ready to start tearing it apart and see what's up with the trans.

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Spent the last week in Seattle at a Developers conference and spent the weekend recovering from the trip and long flight home. While I was gone, had some new toys arrive. A set of Racecar scales that work up to 7500lbs and a vacuum pump for when I try and build a CF part.

Got under the truck sunday night and knocked the rest of the mud out from under the truck. Need to sweep that up and then I can get the truck jacked up and slip the scales under it and get it weighed as it sits. Then I'm going to unhook the traction bars and weigh it again. Then pull the front fenders and nose off and weigh it. Then pull the rear fenders and bed sides off and weigh it again. That will give me an idea of how far I can go with weight savings with possible CF parts.



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Stocked up on feed this weekend, hauled 3k lbs in the dually home
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Got the scales out tonight and took the weight of the truck as it sits and with the bars unhooked. Think I need to do a little research on setting the bars up now that I have the scales.

With bars hooked up
Passenger side is left
Front Left: 1710 31.7%
Front Right: 1609 29.8%
Rear Left: 977 18.1%
Rear Right: 1103 20.4%

Total weight 5399lbs Weight % front: 61%, % rear: 39% COG 74.4 inches from rear axle and 46.8 inches from front axle.

Without bars hooked up
Front Left: 1700 31.5%
Front Right: 1619 30%
Rear Left: 988 18.3%
Rear Right: 1095 20.3%

Needless to say, the truck was right around where I thought it was, needs to go on a major diet especially up front to get more weight bias to the rear of the truck.

Also received a picture from CP-Carrillo of their booth at SEMA, my truck on their brochure is front and center in their booth. Think that's pretty cool.

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I had preload pushing down on the bars. The bars were pushing down, I was guessing when I set them up last winter. Now with the scales, I can hopefully do a better job of setting them up.

Now that I'm thinking about it, I think I need to go the opposite way on reloading them, with them pushing up to move shift weight off the front if I can. I need to do a lot of reading on chassis setup this winter.
 
Finally had a few minutes this evening to pull off the front of the truck and take it's weight as each piece was removed. dropping the two front fenders cut 97lbs, grill dropped 59lbs, hood dropped 38lbs and front tow bar 36lbs for a total dropped off of 230lbs...

I can probably make a new tow point that weighs half what was on there, and front fenders in CF should be about 3lbs and nose about 5 to 10lbs with aluminum supports if I use the factory hood. Probably 2lbs for grill if I make a CF hood and probably 3lbs for hood. I'm a little leary of making a cf hood with the stack going through it, I was shooting flames out of my stack at the last race. Need to get the temps cooled down on the exhaust side.

What is the biggest turbo a fully ported and polished hami headed 12valve that flows air great can spool? I've heard you can easily spool an s488, what about the s500's? would move to a t6 footed exhaust manifold for the larger turbo. Planning on turning my ppump into a 13mm as well this winter.

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