no low end with 4k gsk

TTR 21

TTR 21

Human Spear
Ever since I put in the 4k gsk on my 94 12v auto the truck lost all it's low end power and will barely get out of it's own way until about 2 grand then it takes off like a rocket. Is this normal or do I need to mess with the preboost screw to get more fuel down low? Mods are 4k gsk, 60 lb springs, no plate, Mack rack plug, 16 degrees timing, intake, exhaust.
 
im not sure i had a guy at idaho diesel install them. sounds like i might have to adjust them. how many clicks do you recommend?
 
TTR 21 said:
okay well i might have to tear into her and see what i can come up with. thanks
Click to expand...

If it becomes too much of a PIA to keep removing the shutoff solenoid and leaking some oil when you remove the gov spring plug, etc, you can remove the afc housing and adjust the gov springs through the top of the pump. Since you have no fuel plate, thats one less thing to remove. Might be a little easier for you that way.

Have a long flat head screwdriver ready if you do it that way. Hope that helps.
 
dslhtrdr said:
If it becomes too much of a PIA to keep removing the shutoff solenoid and leaking some oil when you remove the gov spring plug, etc, you can remove the afc housing and adjust the gov springs through the top of the pump. Since you have no fuel plate, thats one less thing to remove. Might be a little easier for you that way.

Have a long flat head screwdriver ready if you do it that way. Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

didnt know you adjust them from the top of the pump. that would make things much faster and easier. how exactly do i adjust them from up there?
 
TTR 21 said:
didnt know you adjust them from the top of the pump. that would make things much faster and easier. how exactly do i adjust them from up there?
Click to expand...

Just remove your afc housing. You don't have a fuel plate so you can skip that step. Bar the engine over till you see the top of the gov spring assembly. It will go a lot faster if you have another person look at it while you turn the motor over, whether your using the barring tool that goes through the adapter plate or by the alternator nut. The alternator nut is faster and easier but turns the motor over backwards, which isn't an issue when doing this.

Adjust them ONE CLICK AT A TIME ON EACH SIDE. It's very important that they are equal to each other. Just in case you didn't know that yet :Cheer:
 
Awesome thanks for the info man. i sure hope that does the trick and possibly help cool the egts down a bit. stock injectors and i can hit 1500 no problem. haha.
 
I have seen in some cases your gov arm will fall under your plate. Inspect the arm position and readjust as needed. Its something to look at. Set the spring pack up initial plus 2 clicks.
 
Bponci said:
I have seen in some cases your gov arm will fall under your plate. Inspect the arm position and readjust as needed. Its something to look at. Set the spring pack up initial plus 2 clicks.
Click to expand...

okay thanks while im in there adjusting the gov springs ill check that out.

so just to get everything straight in my head i can reach the adjustment through the top of the pump with a long flat blade srewdriver and i turn it to clockwise two clicks? i havent been that far inside the pump and am not sure what exactly it looks like and what needs to be adjusted. anyone have any pics of what i need to adjust?
 
Take a medium screwdriver and grind the center so it looks like a fork. It will give you a better feel of the adjustment. The gov adjustment is the small 2 screw plate below the afc on the back of the pump. Takes a 10mm deep socket ext and a small flatblade screwdriver.
 
was just gonna say, get a larger flatblade driver, and grind the center out of it about 1/4" deep so it looks prong shaped, so it clears the stud in the middle of the washer/nut
 
Bponci said:
I have seen in some cases your gov arm will fall under your plate. Inspect the arm position and readjust as needed. Its something to look at. Set the spring pack up initial plus 2 clicks.
Click to expand...

He's not running a fuel plate, so I don't think the arm could be getting stuck there, unless there is something else inside the pump that it could get hung up on.

Since you're running no plate, it takes a very easy throttle otherwise you will be flooding the motor with fuel, and it will take quite awhile for it to spool up and really get going. Are you flooring it and waiting for it to get going, or are you gradually getting into it and it still is sluggish up till 4k or so?
 
SFP12valve said:
X2, yanking the fuel plate is not "tuning." Since your fixing stuff, i'd put the AFC arm back in so your not dumping soot everytime you step on it
Click to expand...

i see almost no smoke at any rpm... the only time it smokes is when it reaches 2k rpms and even then it is only a light haze that is barely visible.
 
Sounds like you could play with your AFC housing some, have you adjusted the star wheel under the allen plug, might need to loosen er up some to get a lil fuel going before full boost comes on.
 
If the governor lever isn't hanging due to no fuel plate, the springs are too loose, no debate.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top