no low end with 4k gsk

Big Blue24 said:
Just remove the AFC and put a piece of duct tape over the hole so you don't get foreign debris in the pump and so oil doesn't make it out of the pump.
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It would be much better to just take the shaft out and remove the AFC arm, then put the shaft back in and reinstall the AFC housing.
 
Big Blue24 said:
Just remove the AFC and put a piece of duct tape over the hole so you don't get foreign debris in the pump and so oil doesn't make it out of the pump.
Click to expand...

Oil and duct tape make such a gooey mess. Its ****ty enough to have to clean up, but I'd much rather not having it get into the oil system.
 
Tate said:
Oil and duct tape make such a gooey mess. Its ****ty enough to have to clean up, but I'd much rather not having it get into the oil system.
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Honestly I think the whole duct tape deal is a terrible idea. Just takes a couple minutes to remove the arm and reinstall the cover.
 
You guys apparently haven't seen the mythbusters episode where they fix a whole car with a roll of duct tape. You can fix anything with duct tape, even plug the top of a P7100 pump.

If I was testing a truck for several days, sure, pull the AFC apart and remove the foot. For a ten minute test drive, no sense using anything other than a piece of duct tape.
 
SFP12valve said:
im with Smokem, the springs are too loose. when i first put my 4k's in my truck felt like a slug, i had to tighten them down initial click, plus 4 more to get it to free rev to 3500. after i put my valve springs in i tightened them down 2 more clicks and it will fuel to 38-3900 under a load (driving)
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Can someone define the "initial click"???
 
The first click you feel when screwing the retainer nut on the stud. My truck didnt have any clicks so I just went by # of rotations.
 
BigErk77 said:
The first click you feel when screwing the retainer nut on the stud. My truck didnt have any clicks so I just went by # of rotations.
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I ask because as the detents start to engage it clicks and I can probably get at least a full turn before fully engaged... no free play.

This compared to how I would normally get my initial setting... by measuring how much stud above the retainer?

Sorry to beat *bdh* this... just want to have a clear understanding.

:rules:
 
HRDROKN said:
I ask because as the detents start to engage it clicks and I can probably get at least a full turn before fully engaged... no free play.

This compared to how I would normally get my initial setting... by measuring how much stud above the retainer?

Sorry to beat *bdh* this... just want to have a clear understanding.

:rules:
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure the "true" method of doing it is by measuring the stud heigth portrusion, but eveyone seems to do the fine tuning afterwards by the "clicks."

At least thats how I understand it. And it's been beaten to death a LOT. I would like to have a clear understanding as well. I set my 4k's back to the same tightness that the stock ones were and I was lucky enough not to have to do any adjustments after.
 
With all this info im getting a little foggy about how to adjust the springs too. :doh: You say there is two adjustment screws that need to be adjusted one at a time and evenly. Are both adjustments visible in the same position of the engine. or do you have to bar it over to each one and adjust separetly?
 
there are 2 spring packs, they are 180 degrees apart, and only one place to access them. So, yes, you have to make your adjustments to one set of the springs, then bar the engine over until you are able to adjust the other set.
 
bna5017 said:
there are 2 spring packs, they are 180 degrees apart, and only one place to access them. So, yes, you have to make your adjustments to one set of the springs, then bar the engine over until you are able to adjust the other set.
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thats what i needed to know! :thankyou2:
 
bna5017 said:
there are 2 spring packs, they are 180 degrees apart, and only one place to access them. So, yes, you have to make your adjustments to one set of the springs, then bar the engine over until you are able to adjust the other set.
Click to expand...

Exactly.
 
Big Blue24 said:
You guys apparently haven't seen the mythbusters episode where they fix a whole car with a roll of duct tape. You can fix anything with duct tape, even plug the top of a P7100 pump.

If I was testing a truck for several days, sure, pull the AFC apart and remove the foot. For a ten minute test drive, no sense using anything other than a piece of duct tape.
Click to expand...

Mythbusters is awesome. And no denying that duct tape won't work. But theres been dumbasses at work that made a dam from duct tape to hold oil in when we were doing an oil flush on a turbine, and oil and duct tape make the glue real gooey and make a hell of a mess. Amount of time it would take clean that, is less time than it would take to pull the AFC on and off. Especially if you only put in two of the four screws.
 
Okay guys finally got home after my long stretch of work up in the AK. As soon as i got home i enlisted the help of a buddy to turn the engine over for me and we dug right into the thing. Removed the intake horn and AFC and started cranking the engine over off the crank pulley. right away i noticed the gov spring adjustment and made its first click then bared the engine over to the second one and made its first click. i made a total of 3 clicks each one at a time to see where that would put me. put everything back together, slid the AFC forward and moved the starwheel forward a little bit. fired it up and checked for leaks. engine idle is now at 950 rpms from its original 600 or so i think. Well needless to say you guys were right and the springs were way too loose. 3 clicks seemed to work perfect and woke up the bottom end like crazy! truck has a nice light gray haze through every gear and runs 100% better and stonger than it ever did before. Thanks again for the input guys! :Cheer:
 
NickTF said:
Did the throttle pedal become stiff when you added the springs? I.e. when you give it pedal under 2000rpm is the throttle pedal stiff until 2000rpms then does the stiffness go away?
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What's the stiff pedal from, I've got that before when trying to dial stuff in.

-Dustin-
 
Bersaglieri said:
What's the stiff pedal from, I've got that before when trying to dial stuff in.

-Dustin-
Click to expand...

Ditto on that. My truck fuels well to 4k, but there is pedal stiffness down low. The idle is not 'crisp' to return from, say, 1100 back to 700, kind of hangs.

To the original poster-glad you got things fixed! There is a great amount of knowledge and folks willing to share said knowledge on this board:Cheer:
 
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