Truckers, lets see your rigs!

What that truck needs is one of those new bulletproof Mack/Volvo motors. Dumbarse friend of mine bought a couple cheap 2014’s I think. Needed new injectors and cups, lasted 2 weeks and they said it needed them again. Replaced under warranty, it’s on its 4th set since last year, getting done right now.

Warranty is only good for 1yr from the date of the original repair so this is the last free set then he starts over. Yay for euro motors!

Wrong tool for cups, they were updated years ago, no problems since.
Also they should use european mechanics, like russian or polish, not some retards from USA.
 
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Wrong tool for cups, they were updated years ago, no problems since.
Also they should use european mechanics, like russian or polish, not some retards from USA.
Riiiight, but the dealer just installed them, so logic would dictate they are new/updated (from years ago, as you put it).

I guess it takes a Russian **** polisher to figure out the heads are probably cracked.

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Wrong tool for cups, they were updated years ago, no problems since.
Also they should use european mechanics, like russian or polish, not some retards from USA.



Maybe your euro mechanics should talk to US mechanics since you say the euro C18’s break cranks all the time.

See how stupid you sound?


Why is it just about any US truck with a euro engine sells for pennies on the dollar compared to anything us engine powered? Anything with a euro designed DD13/15, DAF Paccar, MAN Maxxforce or Volvo/Mack engine is considerably cheaper than the same truck with a Cat/Cummins or older Detroit?
 
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I've got a deleted 2012 isx in the shop. Dropped a valve seat, our shop overhauled it.

It runs now, but it has a code for the EGR valve cal and is a gutless ***** below 1500rpm.

This is catching me off guard since it has been deleted.

If any of you have experience with this, I could use the info.
I think the short answer is to go ahead and fix the EGR valve issue, but it doesn't make sense for it to derate if it has a tune.

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I've got a deleted 2012 isx in the shop. Dropped a valve seat, our shop overhauled it.

It runs now, but it has a code for the EGR valve cal and is a gutless ***** below 1500rpm.

This is catching me off guard since it has been deleted.

If any of you have experience with this, I could use the info.
I think the short answer is to go ahead and fix the EGR valve issue, but it doesn't make sense for it to derate if it has a tune.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk



Have you tried cycling the key on/off 4 times leaving it off on the 4th. Waiting one minute, turn key on and clear codes?

Is the valve plugged in? Was it plugged in when it arrived? Some of the more poorly done files have to have it unplugged to work.
 
On the turbine housing front:

Looks like the inducer part is all exactly the same on the two housings. The gap is the same between the inducer and exducer. Obviously the exducer is different. One is flatter the other has more of a taper I cannot remember which is which. The T6 housing could also use some machining beyond that.
 
On the turbine housing front:

Looks like the inducer part is all exactly the same on the two housings. The gap is the same between the inducer and exducer. Obviously the exducer is different. One is flatter the other has more of a taper I cannot remember which is which. The T6 housing could also use some machining beyond that.

Probably better of in the pickup section, no one is using turbines that small besides the guys running S400s as singles on the 6.7 common rails.
 
On the turbine housing front:

Looks like the inducer part is all exactly the same on the two housings. The gap is the same between the inducer and exducer. Obviously the exducer is different. One is flatter the other has more of a taper I cannot remember which is which. The T6 housing could also use some machining beyond that.

Even tho the inducer measures the same, the tip height is different between the two. You really need to start with a housing for the 74/83 turbine and have it machined for the correct profile.
Like Cody (SmokinCat) said tho, that is a turbine for a highish hp, single turbo pickup, not a semi. The 80/87 with a 1.00 T-4 housing works well on a 800-900hp 6.0. :D
I don’t think you’d want anything smaller than the 88/96 turbine wheel on a big truck.
 
Semi-serious question; do you think hes been talking crank hp all this time?

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It wouldn’t matter, he thinks every dyno reading is wrong no matter if it is an engine dyno or chassis if it was done in the states.
 
It wouldn’t matter, he thinks every dyno reading is wrong no matter if it is an engine dyno or chassis if it was done in the states.



Because we dyno trucks like they work. Gain speed at the bottom of a hill a drag them down as they climb, same as a sled pull, same as the Canadian drags. Which is the same as how they engine dyno. In his idiotic mind he things an inertia dyno makes more sense. Someone should tell Taylor to change their dyno software because Leiffi things this is wrong.
 
Because we dyno trucks like they work. Gain speed at the bottom of a hill a drag them down as they climb, same as a sled pull, same as the Canadian drags. Which is the same as how they engine dyno. In his idiotic mind he things an inertia dyno makes more sense. Someone should tell Taylor to change their dyno software because Leiffi things this is wrong.

I've never been at a dyno where semis have run. Can you explain the difference between that how they do pickups?

When i got my truck dynoed last weekend, they took it up thru the gears until it was in 5th, which is the closet to direct on my truck, then hit the load button on the dyno and as soon as it started dragging the rpms down they floored it.

I assume that is more a peak power reading than a "working power" reading?
 
I've never been at a dyno where semis have run. Can you explain the difference between that how they do pickups?



When i got my truck dynoed last weekend, they took it up thru the gears until it was in 5th, which is the closet to direct on my truck, then hit the load button on the dyno and as soon as it started dragging the rpms down they floored it.



I assume that is more a peak power reading than a "working power" reading?



Same except but they get it in direct and run it to whatever max rpm you choose they hit start on the dyno screen. The dyno then takes over controlling the engine and starts loading the rollers until someone says stop or the crank hits the floor.

They do choose the max percentage of load which in the case of the ones I’ve done is 70%. Unless someone has a giant single which is harder to light they choose 90%
 
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