zfaylors old man truck build

zfaylor

Comp Diesel Sponsor
I bought the truck in the middle of last summer. My only stipulations were 2wd, single cab, and automatic. I sold my 5 speed qcsb ppump 24v and wanted something a little more...."sporty" for lack of a better term.

Bought this dually for $1800 in chicago with 375k on the clock. Miles didn't bother me since it was rust free EVERYWHERE. The underside of the cab was still the factory gray they use. Very rare for trucks in this area. Very very little blow by.

Started out like this:

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After some body work:

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Twins

Decided to build some compounds over the winter since I was bored LOL


WH1C and Gt4294 side by side setup.

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Since I change my mind like I change my underwear I sold these before they even hit the street and went to an s464 single.
 
Transmission didn't appreciate the newfound power of the s464 much so it was time for the transmission.


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Went ahead with a full manual valve body kit, ratchet shifter, buillet input, sfi flexplate, and triple from phil (stock stall).

Inside I did kolene steels and red alto clutches.
Billet accumulator
Billet strut and anchor
steel planetary to replace the aluminum one that likes to explode

Trans shifts nice and holds the power well.
 
Since I cannot make up my mind on what I want and I have always wanted a single cab short bed. So the bed got sold and the frame got chopped.


Laid out the cuts and marked the frame rail.

This line is nice when you move the rail so you know where to put it.

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16 inches between mounts.

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Drill out the rivets and move your 2 piece frame people. Do not cut and weld. It is entirely unnecessary.

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They punch right out

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There are 7 rivets per side. 4 on the leaf shackles and 3 per side on the cross member.

The frame cuts surprisingly easy with a sawzall

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Clean up the rust and spray some paint where the rails overlap

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There were bolt holes on the top of the frame rail that line up nicely when you slide it back together.

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The frame is all back together.


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I then removed the dana 80 and installed a single wheel dana 70 with posi. The 80 was welded and setup for duals so it got the boot since it will see the track. A ford 9" is in my garage getting some treatment for a winter time install.

My to do list as of now:

Buy a short bed from the local wreck yard for $150
Pickup my driveshaft from action machine $220
Install my fuel cell $185
New rotors in the front to make it single wheel $150
Re-fab caltrac mounts on the rear for the dana 70.
Sand blast rear half and paint it all up.


Got some of the tires will terry was running. $100 shipped for the tires and the wheels from summit were $140 and showed up next day. Not the ultimate setup but it will do for now and for the price. I hope this short bed will transfer weight pretty well with caltracs and 2 leafs.

Fuel cell. 16 gallon unit from summit.

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Tires and wheels mounted up

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Thanks guys! Goal is to run 12s to start and learn the truck a little more while keeping it a fun street toy. Ultimate goal is to have a dead nuts consistent truck that is dependable. Engine is studded and I swapped a 180 pump on. 7x11 injectors with .030 lift I bought used off of here built by big blue. Will give this tired engine a break this winter and rebuild one of my low mile engines. O ring it and a cam.

I don't have any extravagant plans for it.


What is the opinion on putting both rear shocks on the same side? Any big benefits until coil overs?
 
Lots of win here. Did you build the trans yourself? I have a shortbed already maybe I will get enough balls to chop mine now that trans is toast.
 
Lots of win here. Did you build the trans yourself? I have a shortbed already maybe I will get enough balls to chop mine now that trans is toast.

Yeah I built the trans in my garage. It was basically a stock rebuild with some goodies. As light as my truck is and as moderate as I am in power I saw no need to complicate it with extra clutches this go around.

I think it needs some nitrous.


Eventually I would like to just to see what it could do. Gonna wait until I can afford a steed speed and a gate first.
 
What is the opinion on putting both rear shocks on the same side? Any big benefits until coil overs?

From a theoretical standpoint, it's better dampening having them face different directions and with the flexing of the leaf springs.
When you put it into practice, I doubt you'd ever notice a difference.

Plus moving them both to the rear gives you more access to the top right side bolt with the exhaust still on.
 
just spray and pray. all the cool kids do it! LOL

LOL you think you cool huh? I will probably spray it later in the season if I manage to keep everything together and it starts getting hints of winter. I would hate to start the summer off rebuilding a truck. I have an itch to get to the track as it is. How are the twins coming?

From a theoretical standpoint, it's better dampening having them face different directions and with the flexing of the leaf springs.
When you put it into practice, I doubt you'd ever notice a difference.

Plus moving them both to the rear gives you more access to the top right side bolt with the exhaust still on.

Good info. I doubt I will mess with it for the time being then.

Very bad azz build!

Thank you sir!

Nice, I didn't even know you sold your truck.

It was a tough decision. My last truck was everything I thought I ever wanted. 5 speed, quad cab, charcoal interior, patriot blue paint, ppumped it, etc. Fun azz truck and i miss it but I really love the cheap 2wd 12 valves man. I feel a little more "free" to do whatever I want with to it.

Good work, but I can't get past the original paint.

I want another 2 tone dually so bad lol

Trust me man I wanted to keep it old man style and try to make the ultimate sleeper. I have always loved Chris Reeds dually. I couldn't resist myself though. I got bored at home during the winter and had to clean it up.


Thanks for all of the kind words guys.
 
Wow thanks I'm going to shortbed mine now.. Looks too easy

Buy yourself some good drill bits and drill all of the way through the rivets and they punch even easier. I used a 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" in that order obviously and they drilled surprisingly easy. Some have used step drillbits with good results. I would do a step drillbit after learning how soft the rivets are if I didn't already have the drill bits I used.

I knocked the head off of the rivet and then punched it through. After that it slides apart. chop off 16" and line everything back up. Drill new holes and you're done. Brake line needs shortened, new fuel tank (or cell), driveshaft, and bed are all that is left.


If I had all of the parts in front of me and a solid day to myself I could easily get it done in a day knowing what I know now. Just measure several times and hold your breath. It made me nervous cutting chunks of frame off LOL
 
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