friggin headlights
- Thread starter dieselbeef
- Start date
Kick Start
Banned
Referencing the color that would be hard for color blind people to read. Not your statement.
dieselbeef
dick doggin
oh crap not another one!
4x4dually
Moderator
Like I said, my old '02 truck has been that way since probably at least '06 and never had an issue with heat or lenses. I got here (CompD) in '07 and it was done before that.
So you did it the hard way? :hehe: This is probably one of the very few times that I would actually recommend the use of a scotch-lock.
BigPapa
Truckless
Yep, already had it done when you posted your scotch lock mod.........:doh:
I wanted to do the relay mod anyway for the full voltage and to get it out of the switch.
I have been known to drive around with my lever pulled back though......
dieselbeef
dick doggin
if I do the jory mod then can I do the lmc relay setup also? cuz I think that's in my future..
BigPapa
Truckless
Yes.
#1dieselbuilder
New member
Sport lights led lows and high / low sure lost of light
dieselbeef
dick doggin
wtf is that language
dieselbeef
dick doggin
must be French american
Can't tell you. I haven't run them. I have run a very similar lamp in a motorcycle with no adverse effects.
Here ya go. Credit where credit is due, this diagram was previously posted by GAmes. Thanks again Gary. Hope you don't mind me posting it here.
I used Gary's diagram with the diode. I also put 30amp fuses in the "battery power" legs. I bought new lamp connectors, Dorman "Hi-temp", O'reilly part number CTI 84791, instead of using the factory ones. The relay part number CTI 88069. I used 12GA wire and grounded each lamp connector directly to the batteries. I ran the wiring through split loom and across the top of the radiator opposite the battery cable. Even used the little p-clamps like the battery cable.
First, thank you for the drawing, but I can't get it to work.
I have it wired the same as yours Bigpapa. 12 volt from batteries with 20 amp inline fuses to #30 on relay.
Then I hook up the red/orange wire to the #86 on relay & then, relay #87 back to the bulb, that's all good.
Now when I go to ground the relay #85, I got sparks flying & relay starts to click when ever I try to ground it. (something is wrong)
What do you do with the original ground wire from light plug harness ? & what terminal on the bulb is the ground that you run to the negative on the battery? Is there something I am not seeing or doing right. I am just trying it on 1 side high beam to see if I can get the rest to follow. Is this my problem doing 1 at a time on 1 side.
Please help, I hate like heck to not used all the parts I just bought.
On a side not, to get the high's & lows to remain on together when lights are set to bright, under the knee bolster are a group of wires. Look for a light green wire (because there are 2 light green wires) & find the one that works with your headlight switch on & off, which is the correct light green wire. As for the other wire it is purple with a white tracer. Connect these 2 together with a modified scotch lock & presto ,low beams only & high & low beams when switched to bright. This only works on 2nd gen.
4x4dually
Moderator
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BigPapa
Truckless
Jehri, I don't know what to tell you. Mine are wired up exactly like that and they work.
4x4dually
Moderator
dieselbeef
dick doggin
big wires are power..little wires are triggers..do not connect them together
BigPapa
Truckless
Just got home from work and have some time to devote to your questions.
This is probably your problem. The right and left headlights are tied together. I'd say you can't do it this way, don't know, never tried. Do it all like I describe below.
Did you cut the wires then connect them or did you tap into them?
Do you have the headlights on? You would have to have power to #85 to activate the relay. Are you sure your ground wire is grounded and not powered?
Again, did you cut the wires or tap into them? You need to cut the wires before they "Y" off to the bulbs. I wouldn't worry about the body side ground wire. Connect the body side wiring to the relays, violet/white to #86 on the Low Beam relay and Red/Orange to #86 on the High Beam relay. Connect the light side wires to #87 on the relays, again, violet/white to #87 on the Low Beam relay and Red/Orange to #87 on the High Beam relay.
The other wire in the harness, on the bulb side, is the ground, ground it.
***NOTE***
If your using the Jory MOD, do not use the jumper wire or the diode connecting the wires going to #86 on the relays.
Hope this helps you out.
.
This is probably your problem. The right and left headlights are tied together. I'd say you can't do it this way, don't know, never tried. Do it all like I describe below.
Did you cut the wires then connect them or did you tap into them?
Do you have the headlights on? You would have to have power to #85 to activate the relay. Are you sure your ground wire is grounded and not powered?
Again, did you cut the wires or tap into them? You need to cut the wires before they "Y" off to the bulbs. I wouldn't worry about the body side ground wire. Connect the body side wiring to the relays, violet/white to #86 on the Low Beam relay and Red/Orange to #86 on the High Beam relay. Connect the light side wires to #87 on the relays, again, violet/white to #87 on the Low Beam relay and Red/Orange to #87 on the High Beam relay.
The other wire in the harness, on the bulb side, is the ground, ground it.
***NOTE***
If your using the Jory MOD, do not use the jumper wire or the diode connecting the wires going to #86 on the relays.
Hope this helps you out.
.
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