Hammer
Verbal Junk Author
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2006
- Messages
- 1,849
14cm on my hx and no wastgate
55-60psi all day long
I'll bet that made for an efficent charger,55-60 lbs of a HX35.:badidea::banghead:
14cm on my hx and no wastgate
55-60psi all day long
Nick...
You can have all the fuel you want,but,if you can not get on top of the charger to utilize it all your doing is making smoke and making your wallet beg for mercy.You will never see more than the boost your seeing due to the way to large exhaust housing.At 34psi with a 21cm exhaust housing your about the end of your rope.If you had used a 16cm it would net you around 40lbs and may shove you towards 400 closer.
All of your mods in your signature shows me your looking for full on smoke effect instead of tuning for power.With a 12v you need to have a balance of air and fuel to make the power you want down low without having to much to kill it on the bottom.You overfuel a 12v down low and not have enough charger to recover and your HP numbers suffer and torque will be made late in the run.Remember a hard hitting 12v on a dyno will make max power not far from where it made power from Cummins(2300-2600rpm)and if you can get the charger lit early to make power sooner torque goes up substantially.
Your trucks signature shows me the timing is good,injectors will work if the tips spray hit the bowl,A plate to control low end fueling should be used and some afc work on the jet to tune the low end fuel application.Its not all about being maxed out on everything its about how you make mods work in your tune.I have seen many trucks make more power with less parts than your and know of a 98 stick truck that did 330/998 with a plate,16cm housing and some tuning.
Good Luck and keep hunting because I can tell you it doesn't get any easier the higher you go in HP when trying to perfect your tune for the next HP plateau,trust me on that one.........Andy
Nick,
Sorry man... I just saw this thread. I will try to post up the graph tonight.
Chris
I didn't think it spooled to slow on the dyno for a 21cm housing, I just think theres to much fuel too early between the Dv's and Sticks he has, It was pretty difficult to back up on the dyno since it was so touchy.
Brett
Put a #0 plate at 1/2 forward back in, leave the AFC full forward. Then wait until you finish the transmission and turbo upgrades.
Here you go Nick...
Nick knows, but in case any of you are wondering, on the 2nd run the reflective tape fell off at around 2800rpm, that's why the reading stops. If i graph it over speed, the hp curve is nearly identical to the first run, just a little lower.
Nick..
I am not sure what you missed but your problem,while it may have issues with the transmission,is exhaust housing related.I have already said that and you looked right beyond it to the rest of the post.
I guess what you say must never be questioned, huh?
Nope,
Thats where your wrong.
You must be another one of those who feel I pulled those facts from thin air or they were just made up.Its a proven fact when you change the exhaust housing for a larger one you will loose boost.In this article Mr.Donnelly states that a owner who swaps out the 12cm housing for the 16cm housing looses 4 lbs of boost.He then also states that to go to the 18.5cm housing you will loose an additional 2.5 lbs of boost more than the 16cm(so lets see here 4+2.5=6.5lbs of boost off of his originally stated 40lbs with a 12cm=33.5 lbs of boost,which would be close to what he stated when he began this thread).He also states that there is little or no difference between the 18.5 and 16 cm housings but many older truck owners swapped out the 21cm because of poor throttle response.Hmm,Lag,I think if you look at his sheet and see where the power and torque are made it shows that right away.
I'll leave you a link to the article to read,maybe you'll learn something......Andy
P.S.-Can you figure out what his boost loss will be from the 12cm since he has the 21cm exhaust housing??????.
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/featurearticles/AirFuelPower.htm