12v twin turbo owners, how did you do your 2nd oil drain?

npe3484

npe3484

I hate ATF
I'm putting compound turbos on my `95 and I need to get my oil drains figured out. Since mine is the earlier style block, there isn't the option of using the 2nd oil drain like you newer guys have. Pulling the pan to TIG a bung on sounds like a huge pain.

I did a little searching on the topic, and somebody mentioned that Source uses an epoxy of some kind to do their drains?

I'm open to any ideas, but really not wanting to have to pull the pan. Though, it would give me a chance to put a new pan gasket on...
 
I used that drain fitting from source and it turned out good without any leaks. Had to punch a hole in the pan, i think it was 1/2npt im not 100% sure. It took a wile to get the hole big enough, after i taped the hole i used jb weld to seal around the threads.
 
Here is how I did mine, but had to pull the pan to weld the fitting on.
dragtruck026.jpg
dragtruck027.jpg
 
With the pan on the truck I drained the oil. Used a hole saw to cut the hole. Then we welded the bung in and I used JB weld as an added measure ... did that 5 years ago Thousands of miles and many hits at the track and all is still good....
 
Twisted Shifter said:
With the pan on the truck I drained the oil. Used a hole saw to cut the hole. Then we welded the bung in and I used JB weld as an added measure ... did that 5 years ago Thousands of miles and many hits at the track and all is still good....
Click to expand...

bingo

just run the old oil through to flush out any metal particles...
 
Luckily I put mine in when I had the pan off with the engine was out, drilled a hole and welded the fitting in, no problems so far!
 
if it was myself, i would just go ahead and pull the pan to tig the bung in. spend two hours to do it right and forget about it, but thats just my .02.
 
I'm going to have my engine out this winter, I was planning on just welding a bung in while the engine was out to make it easier on myself in preparation for compounds. Is the TIG really necessary though? I have a MIG and I am a good welder, I've stuck exhaust pipe to 3/8" flat stock before and it held up fine all year long on a demolition derby car, but I don't know enough about TIG and what the advantage is.
 
i prefer TIG whenever i want something to seal. when you MIG you start "cold", this is when the filler material is introduced prior to the weld pool. it create a small build up of weld that does not penetrate, therefore not sealing.

I am not saying that it can not be done with MIG. if you now anyone with a TIG, talk to them and see if they will show you how to weld. you can then TIG your bung in there with no leaks!:woohoo:

PS, TIG is A LOT more fun then MIG. IMO
 
I used a mig on mine. Ben in there for about a year now with no leaks. I am sure tig would be better but that's what I had at the time. My plan was to hover it with jb weld if it leaked.
 
Last edited:
i have taken the stock fitting out and t into it with another piece of tube, never had any problems. but i have had a return hose kink and restrick the oil flow enough to cause it to push oil out the seals in the turbo.
 
cumminsturbo94 said:
i prefer TIG whenever i want something to seal. when you MIG you start "cold", this is when the filler material is introduced prior to the weld pool. it create a small build up of weld that does not penetrate, therefore not sealing.

I am not saying that it can not be done with MIG. if you now anyone with a TIG, talk to them and see if they will show you how to weld. you can then TIG your bung in there with no leaks!:woohoo:
Click to expand...

Ditto.

If I were to do this without pulling the pan off the motor I would poke a hole in the oil pan with a punch and keep enlarging it until you can get the pipe fitting in it that you want to run. Then thread the pipe fitting in with some JB Weld or similar epoxy. That's how we used to do the turbo kits many years ago, it works well.
 
Hole saw works good just stop a little before going all the way and pry it out with a punch.Mig works good on pans, Tig doesn't like the lead used in pans to make them eazy er to forum.But still doable
 
SFP12valve said:
i also have a storm block, haha, you guys missed out big time LOL
Click to expand...

True but we have 14mm main bolts :lolly:

Go to a pipe supply that fabricates fire sprinkler pipes. I acquired a 3/4" NPT female "Weld-let" from the one our shop uses. Used a hole saw to drill the hole and then stick welded the sucker in!

I wouldn't worry about whether you are using MIG or TIG, the oil pan and drain fitting are under no pressure other than gravity and whatever you have in the crankcase. Plus on our sprinkler pipes all the weld-lets are MIG'd in and very rarely do you have one leak and most of them are at 175psi 24/7...
 
Muddin_dude06 said:
True but we have 14mm main bolts :lolly:

Go to a pipe supply that fabricates fire sprinkler pipes. I acquired a 3/4" NPT female "Weld-let" from the one our shop uses. Used a hole saw to drill the hole and then stick welded the sucker in!

I wouldn't worry about whether you are using MIG or TIG, the oil pan and drain fitting are under no pressure other than gravity and whatever you have in the crankcase. Plus on our sprinkler pipes all the weld-lets are MIG'd in and very rarely do you have one leak and most of them are at 175psi 24/7...
Click to expand...

so with 14mm main bolts does that mean less meat in the cap?
 
Is there an ideal position to put the 2nd drain? Obviously it needs to be above the oil level in the pan, but what about fore/aft positioning?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top