14mm ve pump

Jon- you are on the right track. Add 2 vanes, and/or increase their "travel". Also, I cut the vane pump outlet to approx 5/16 instead of the lil 1/4 that it has. I have no way to prove whether this helps anything.

For more ideas, study vp44 pump. They have a similar charge pump, but with an added twist- spring loaded vanes. Also, it is a bit thicker, bigger around, and heavier vanes. Hmmm...
 
If you're leaving the stock lift and duration, faster ramp wouldn't change anything that I can think of. It may cause an bigger pressure spike in the plunger, depending on restrictions after it, since the fuel will still have to get out of the same hole.
 
Faster ramps always help, the question that is constant is; can the roller bouncing off the back side of the lobe be avoided? What is gained might not be worth the cost.
 
are current profiled designed with the same profiles on the front and back? looks the same to the naked eye..
 
I'm not sure where you're coming from there. If anything, I believe I have given people the exact opposite...an exact example of a combination of parts that would lead to the 14mm h&r being a viable performance product in terms of performance and reliability.

Wheres the details on whats done to your pump?
 
It's the $2,400 Scheid pump....as far as I know it has weight added to the governor, different delivery valves, no KSB, and a 14mm H&R.
 
Here is what I have found in the testing of the 14mm VE I was testing a few years back. High lift cam plate decreases rpm potential as does the 14mm head and rotor. It has to due with chamber fill time. I spent tons of time porting, machining and doing everything possible to make the little VE move enough high rpm fuel to be competitive in my local 2.6 class. In the vane pump I turned the rotor down and noticed case pressures holding on for higher rpm, but the the vane pump exploded due to not enough of the vane being in the rotor and over stressing them. As for the governor I never changed anything in mine, different springs made it pull as high as I was looking for. All the porting and vane pump mods you can think of still will not make the internal pump keep up with the head and rotor. I found that I got the most flow feeding 50-60 psi to the main inlet then feeding 150+ into the shutoff solenoid port with a belt driven pump. I had a check valve inline to keep the case pressure in until it dropped enough for the belt driven pump to take over. As for delivery valves i found a set of non ic ones turned down on a small lathe worked great. I also had drilled holder as i was trying some .093 .120 lines. I have a whole notebook full of numbers and flow rates from when I was messin with the VE so if anyone has an idea run it by me. I might have already tried it lol. I went p pump so I am out of the VE game, at least it's still a 92 though.
 
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Holy crap! You are alive!

Smokem, anything this guy says, he has personally tested and reported...

Glad to see you back ford.

Sent from my rooted Velocity Ally
 
Nice Info man thats good to know, so 50-60psi to the inlet you noticed the best performance, but wouldnt the seals blow up with that much pressure at idle or cruising? what do you think about running 7psi at idle and having a boost referenced pressure regulator that would increase fuel pressure with boost 1 to 1 or 1 to 1.5.
 
Nice Info man thats good to know, so 50-60psi to the inlet you noticed the best performance, but wouldnt the seals blow up with that much pressure at idle or cruising? what do you think about running 7psi at idle and having a boost referenced pressure regulator that would increase fuel pressure with boost 1 to 1 or 1 to 1.5.

the seal will probably hold, throw a retainer on it and it eliminates all the jibber gabber of a regulator
 
Here is what I have found in the testing of the 14mm VE I was testing a few years back. High lift cam plate decreases rpm potential as does the 14mm head and rotor. It has to due with chamber fill time. I spent tons of time porting, machining and doing everything possible to make the little VE move enough high rpm fuel to be competitive in my local 2.6 class. In the vane pump I turned the rotor down and noticed case pressures holding on for higher rpm, but the the vane pump exploded due to not enough of the vane being in the rotor and over stressing them. As for the governor I never changed anything in mine, different springs made it pull as high as I was looking for. All the porting and vane pump mods you can think of still will not make the internal pump keep up with the head and rotor. I found that I got the most flow feeding 50-60 psi to the main inlet then feeding 150+ into the shutoff solenoid port with a belt driven pump. I had a check valve inline to keep the case pressure in until it dropped enough for the belt driven pump to take over. As for delivery valves i found a set of non ic ones turned down on a small lathe worked great. I also had drilled holder as i was trying some .093 .120 lines. I have a whole notebook full of numbers and flow rates from when I was messin with the VE so if anyone has an idea run it by me. I might have already tried it lol. I went p pump so I am out of the VE game, at least it's still a 92 though.

BTW when you turned the rotor down, did you make the slots for the vanes any deeper?
 
Not quite back since the old beater now is p pumped, but its up and running again anyway. The seal blowing is not an issue if you use a retainer. I just cut a grove in my case and used a snap ring and had no issues. I did push somewhere around 80psi through the inlet once and it started leaking between the shaft and seal. Making the slots for the vanes deeper would have been an option if I would have had longer vanes, but using the stock ones there was no point in making the groves deeper.
 
If you are looking at the front of the pump where the seal is the snap ring will go in front of the seal. You will have to have your pump apart and have a groove cut for the snap ring to clip into.
 
Would you happen to have a pic? So when the pump is out I have to take the faceplate off and get a groove cut into the case for a snap ring is how Im understanding it? Do I need a snap ring or could I get away with just a retainer plate? Anyone sell that or custom?
 
I have never seen anyone offer a custom plate. the snap ring is super cheap. Not sure on the labor. I did mine myself. I dont have a pic I would have to dig the pump outa my parts pile and take one. Just imagine a grove cut right before seal. Just like an internal snap ring on some manual transmissions
 
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