2001 Excursion v10-12v :)

Probably has a front sump pan too. Will need a piuckup tube and flip the pan. The sump length could be different, potentially causing crossmember clearance issues.
 
Thanks guys. I have no problem getting a different pan or pickup. I'm more worried about the adpater plate bolting up.

Will see what tomorrow brings

Thanks again.

Mike
 
Back of the block and crank is the same. Crank could have a goofy pilot sticking off of it for a allison, a large hammer will remove it. They're usually stuck on pretty good.
 
Just looked at the Vin tag and she's got 3.73:1. Yippy dont have to worry about switching gears or axles.
 
Making progress

Made some progress this weekend.

First I need to get the X into the garage so I could start working on it. Didn’t want to wait for my friends to get off work to use one of their trucks so I thought I would try with my car. Moved it about 20ft then gave up. Didn’t want to break anything on the car since the trucks at the cabin and the car is my daily driver. My dad stopped by and helped me with his truck.
Thru a fresh battery in her and started right up. (not sure why I didn’t try that first)
Saturday morning I started yanking the front clip off and getting the V10 out. Right after lunch she was out. Pulled the transmission and t-cast out with the motor.
Cummins is being deilverd to work tomorrow and I’m towing the truck to my brother to lift the body off the frame next week. From there I can fit the Cummins on the chassis and underline the body to try and keep noise down.

Few pics

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Awesome build. I want to tune in for this one as I want to do this eventually.
 
Take the time to degrease and prime and paint that engine compartment now. It will be Much easier to do and lots of access etc.. looks like you have a garage to work in so that makes it much easier! Try to separate the harness and mark what the wiring was for.. tip for masking so you don't paint the wires etc..use aluminum foil wrapped around the wires / parts.. its quick and easy..
Thanks,
Deo
 
therabbittree said:
Take the time to degrease and prime and paint that engine compartment now. It will be Much easier to do and lots of access etc.. looks like you have a garage to work in so that makes it much easier! Try to separate the harness and mark what the wiring was for.. tip for masking so you don't paint the wires etc..use aluminum foil wrapped around the wires / parts.. its quick and easy..
Thanks,
Deo
Click to expand...

Thanks Wiring shouldnt be to bad.

Body is coming off the frame next week. Lucky for me my brother who cant work on a car to save is life has a 14k car hoist:doh:

Frame will be prep,primed and painted. The underside of the body will get lizard skin(for nose) and then spray on bedliner for rust. I have had great results and its tough as nails.
http://www.tptools.com/U-Pol-Raptor-Spray-On-Truck-Bed-Liner-Kit,2600.html
 
Making progress

Motor showed up to work on Thursday and have been working on it since. Spent some time at work this morning making a adjustable pump gear and fixing the threads on the pump. The threads were to far gone to save so I milled them off and tapped the center for a 3/8-24. Does anyone know how hard these pump should turn over on the bench. This one seems hard but then again I have never dealt with one of these pumps.

Fixing the threads
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Machining the pump gear down to except the hub.
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Finished adjustable pump gear minus some grade 8 hardware.
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Also made a block off plate for the ps/vaccum pump.
Along with sandblasted a bunch of parts.
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they make kits for doing these correct? I no the shop I work at wants to start doing some and was wondering how bad it actually is to do thanks
 
Yup body is back down on the frame and fired the motor up for the first time this weekend. Been slow progress as I'm also building a pole shed and starting a new job. Things should pick up now.

I'll post some pics when I get a min to upload them.
 
for the crank sensor which wires did you tap into on the ford ecu to get the tach to work? i'm stalled on my swap due to noone up in my area having any idea which wires are for the crank sensor(trans needs crank signal to shift, tach needs to work for a/c etc to work)
 
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