24v build and break in

Regardless of anyone's advise on engine break-in procedure you must follow the cam makers camshaft break-in procedures to the T. Once the cam is broke in it's up to you how to break-in the engine. I would suggest that you familiarize yourself with diesel engine break-in procedures in general so that you understand the basic do's and don'ts. For example, Do not leave the engine idle below 1200 rpm for more than 1 minute, Do not rev the (b-series) engine beyond 3500 rpm for the first 1000 miles, Do not free rev the engine beyond 2000 rpm, Do hook the truck to a load and work the engine hard. The list goes on...I don't have the time to explain the mechanical reasoning behind these very basic rules of operation but a Cummins engine rebuild manual will lay it out well.
 
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LReiff said:
Regardless of anyone's advise on engine break-in procedure you must follow the cam makers camshaft break-in procedures to the T. Once the cam is broke in it's up to you how to break-in the engine. I would suggest that you familiarize yourself with diesel engine break-in procedures in general so that you understand the basic do's and don'ts. For example, Do not leave the engine idle below 1200 rpm for more than 1 minute, Do not rev the (b-series) engine beyond 3500 rpm for the first 1000 miles, Do not free rev the engine beyond 2000 rpm, Do hook the truck to a load and work the engine hard. The list goes on...I don't have the time to explain the mechanical reasoning behind these very basic rules of operation but a Cummins engine rebuild manual will lay it out well.
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Thanks, Im still waiting on my manual, its been 2 weeks now. all my text books reccomend putting them on a dyno before install to break them in, however that really isnt something I have access to at all
 
They are 160.00. available in Std .010 & .020
The only reason I would recommend going .020 would be for valve clearance.
 
so after a long tedious battle with the machine shop, they want $500.00 to line hone my mains for studs, would I need to rehone it if I simply used upgraded bolts or would stock bolts work fine?
 
cummins_4life said:
For daily driving, cryo rods, I wouldn't think would be necessary for 650 hp.
Studs can be torqued a couple times I've heard. Just a suggestion tho, instead of paying seveal hundred for main studs, I used 12.9 grade 14mm cap screws. they rate probably in between stock bolts and studs but cost less than half of what studs cost. So I'd just say figure out what your goals are. You may not need main studs.
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where would one find 12.9grade cap screws, Fastenall? and will they alter the line dimensions at all?
 
$500!?!? Holy crap. Just to hone? We get alot less then that to set up in our cnc and line bore it. Whether or not the 12.9's will still distort is kinda based on what torque you use when you set them up and how bad urs are right now. Are you sure ur's doesn't need honed even with stock bolts? Maybe they're just worn out. Find that out first maybe.
 
I got my machine work done for $764 on my 12v. Thats hot tanking, polishing the crank, boring/hone .040 over, checking the mains, valve job, decking the head, pin setting the rods, and magnafluxing everything.
 
bluelineranch said:
where would one find 12.9grade cap screws, Fastenall? and will they alter the line dimensions at all?
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I used 12.9 14mm for head and mains on my 12v storm block with a girdle at 150# I had no distortion in the mains.
 
ya im thinking the machine shop is trying to play me on this one, they told me the mains were in spec until they torque the studs to spec, and it took them 2 weeks to tell me my rods were "out of spec" they wouldnt tell me what spec. the same shop also said it would be $230 to balance the rotating assembly but wanted to charge me $145 to put pistons on rods and rings on pistons. I told them to send it all back yesterday
 
There is another local shop around where I live that quoted me about $1200 for the whole shootin match and they have a really good rep for their work. I was real close to just sending my whole motor off to performance diesel machine in utah but the freight was too much
 
cummins_4life said:
There is another local shop around where I live that quoted me about $1200 for the whole shootin match and they have a really good rep for their work. I was real close to just sending my whole motor off to performance diesel machine in utah but the freight was too much
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I hear ya id love to send mine to greeley machine but i cant afford drivin there and back a dozen times, and postage no way! and I like to put them together myself so I can blame someone else when it breaks :lolly: I was dealing through napa (gotta love a middle man) and i liked the engine the chick workin there was building but not at almost 65% more money
 
new machine shop says everything is good, the rods may need work depending on what the h11s do to them, this project is taking too long
 
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