3 speed nv4500 pulling trans

zstroken said:
I don't know been pricing some open driveline stuff, and the prices they want, I can throw a lot of ring and pinions at a D80 and still have money in my pocket...
Click to expand...

After building both a fully built oem driveline truck from the ground up (starting with a frame and buying the drive line for it) (bought everything rebuilt from a local rebuilding shop)...And building an open driveline truck I can firmly say that the open drive line truck in the end was the same price for the drivetrain as the the oem drive-line truck if not cheaper.
In the end though...I think it comes down to doing ALOT of the home work you self and building as much as you can on your own!

Ryan
 
RyanB said:
After building both a fully built oem driveline truck from the ground up (starting with a frame and buying the drive line for it) (bought everything rebuilt from a local rebuilding shop)...And building an open driveline truck I can firmly say that the open drive line truck in the end was the same price for the drivetrain as the the oem drive-line truck if not cheaper.
In the end though...I think it comes down to doing ALOT of the home work you self and building as much as you can on your own!

Ryan
Click to expand...


Possibly, could you give a summary of the price that you have in yours now?

I guess what I am running into is the it appears the rearend to run OEM 8 lug aluminum wheels is running $6000+

The rest of the stuff is about the same.
 
zstroken said:
Possibly, could you give a summary of the price that you have in yours now?

I guess what I am running into is the it appears the rearend to run OEM 8 lug aluminum wheels is running $6000+

The rest of the stuff is about the same.
Click to expand...

Well, to give you an idea on the rear end we picked up a F106 for $300, cut the spindles off and build our own sheet metal housing for another $300. We then sorced the following parts on our own (2" 300m axles and driver plates, spool, billet pinion support, 5.29 genuine rockwell R&P, and bearing kit) and we are running the stock cast 6bolt hubs (we where going to go with aluminum hubs but figured if the back of the truck was any lighter we could never back up to the sled without crab walking). All this was a grand total of $3525 and if we would have used the 6.20 gears that came with the axle we would have saved $600 (we did sell the stock R&P for $250 though).

This was about $2000 cheaper than what everyone else said we could do it for (stock F106 housing axle) and at least 3K cheaper for a sheet metal axle, all because we did the work our self and sorced our own parts and saved a ton of money.

NOW...if you are just swapping in an F106 and don't think you need the big shafts or havn't narrowed it, I would just weld the spiders, but in a billet pinion support and throw on a set of 8bolt aluminum hubs from proformance pro's for $473 each and just turn down the stock rockwell axle flanges and re-drill them for the hub bolt patern!

Pick up an F106 for as cheap as we did (we have since bought 2 more for the same kind of money up here in Ontario) and you will have under $2000 into it!!!
 
Scheid is or was selling built 106 swap outs for 5-6k apeice from where they were switching to sqhds. The cost for the open driveline is substantially more than the stocker setup but inturn you should not have anything to worry about anymore. IT might be cheaper if you source used parts and dont do all the fancy stuff. Hell the gear sets alone for the scs dropbox are like 800$. Yeah you can also hook the reverser trans up to a stock bellhousing but why? You need the 2000$ clutch can, 3500$+ clutch, custom driveshafts, trans, dropbox, plus all the mods done to the rear axle as was mentiond. Your gonna have a easy 10k in the setup. I dont think it is cheaper thats for sure.
 
going "used" will deffinatly help (we picked up our belhousing and reverser from a very well known mod diesel puller this past winter). Got the reverser and can for $2500. Everything else we bought new. Paid $3600 for pro-fab ultimate drop box with the mid shaft, sheilding, 4 yokes (2 on the box, 2 for the axles) and a few other goodies also. Pro-fab quick change gears by the way are $215 and they frequently come up on racing junk for $100 a pair. Our front axle for our aplication is a custom Dana80 steer axle, all build my self and loaded with an ARB and 4340 lifetime warantee shafts and driver plates and 300M joints and 5:13 gears the axle is $2750. We are also building our own drive shafts for the truck and parts for those are $600. That brings the total price up to just under $13,000 for the whole drive train.

For cost comparison here are the prices for the drive train I paid for my old puller when I build it from scratch in 2006

$2650- Rebuilt GM AAM 11.5 with 3:73's and posi (no lockers available at the time)
$3600-rebuild Dana 60 dodge with solid pasenger shaft, upgraded axles, ARB
$3200 for a fully rebuilt NV5600
$1600 241DHD
$1200 for custom drive shafts (rear was 98" long for the crew-cab dually)

That brings the grand total up to $12,250....almost the same price as the drive train we have now!

Like I said, you can save a ton by sourcing parts on your own and doing the work your self!

RyanB
 
RyanB said:
going "used" will deffinatly help (we picked up our belhousing and reverser from a very well known mod diesel puller this past winter). Got the reverser and can for $2500. Everything else we bought new. Paid $3600 for pro-fab ultimate drop box with the mid shaft, sheilding, 4 yokes (2 on the box, 2 for the axles) and a few other goodies also. Pro-fab quick change gears by the way are $215 and they frequently come up on racing junk for $100 a pair. Our front axle for our aplication is a custom Dana80 steer axle, all build my self and loaded with an ARB and 4340 lifetime warantee shafts and driver plates and 300M joints and 5:13 gears the axle is $2750. We are also building our own drive shafts for the truck and parts for those are $600. That brings the total price up to just under $13,000 for the whole drive train.

For cost comparison here are the prices for the drive train I paid for my old puller when I build it from scratch in 2006

$2650- Rebuilt GM AAM 11.5 with 3:73's and posi (no lockers available at the time)
$3600-rebuild Dana 60 dodge with solid pasenger shaft, upgraded axles, ARB
$3200 for a fully rebuilt NV5600
$1600 241DHD
$1200 for custom drive shafts (rear was 98" long for the crew-cab dually)

That brings the grand total up to $12,250....almost the same price as the drive train we have now!

Like I said, you can save a ton by sourcing parts on your own and doing the work your self!

RyanB
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, the fear is that the f106 won't hold up, so that puts that out. Of course where you got the 241DHD for $1600 I would sell you everyone I had for that LOL. Your right though making your own or buying used is the route to go.
 
zstroken said:
Thanks for the info, the fear is that the f106 won't hold up, so that puts that out. Of course where you got the 241DHD for $1600 I would sell you everyone I had for that LOL. Your right though making your own or buying used is the route to go.
Click to expand...

I have no doubt the F106 will hold for you...look back only 5 or 6 years ago when they started showing up in Mod trucks...welded diffs where the norm and the billet pinion support solved alot of problems. And the mod trucks back then with there twins where over 1500hp with more torque than any single charger truck.

The trend is always to go bigger but it doesn't have to be that way. Put together a well built F106 and it will live for a long time.

As far as $1600 for a 241DHD...thats the going price up here for them...they are quite rare seeing every guy that plow's snow wants one!!!!

Ryan
 
RyanB said:
I have no doubt the F106 will hold for you...look back only 5 or 6 years ago when they started showing up in Mod trucks...welded diffs where the norm and the billet pinion support solved alot of problems. And the mod trucks back then with there twins where over 1500hp with more torque than any single charger truck.

The trend is always to go bigger but it doesn't have to be that way. Put together a well built F106 and it will live for a long time.

As far as $1600 for a 241DHD...thats the going price up here for them...they are quite rare seeing every guy that plow's snow wants one!!!!

Ryan
Click to expand...


Thanks for the info, I was under the impression that the mod guys weren't running f106's much anymore.
 
from what I know of they arn't but when the diesel mods first started they where right up untill the last few years I believe (when they where full framed trucks). Don't quote me on this at all but I seem to recall Haisleys welding in an F106 into the back of Curts truck in the spring of 06 when I was down picking up my motor. That year they regularly swapped from the big single to twins and Cepek's to DOT's with that truck.

And there are definatly ways to make it live without spending a fortune! $3500 tops and you would get 2" shafts, spool, pinion support and 8bolt hubs and thats with buying an axle for $500!! you just have to know where to look!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top