6.4 cummins build

4089453 is 104mm

I wonder if there is an oversized available? I looked up the part number but there was almost no information available. Engine CPL is 8362 ESN 21639219

Would you have a piston bowl drawing for that piston?

I can buy marine QSB 6.7L pistons, pins, rings for less than $1k cdn, so that why I'm going with them.

I have a buddy that does heads, what you want done? He's pretty reasonable. I have in stock a few 12v's heads ranging from a hamilton head (oversized valves), to china 12v head (oversized valves), both with 185lbs springs. All max ported/intake removed, still haven't been drilled and tapped for an intake.

I'm going to drop off a 6.7L head and a 5.9L CR that I just bought to get done up. I have probably done over 30 6.7L heads and about as many 5.9CR heads. They should be done in a few weeks.

Also done a few duramax LLY and powerstroke 6.0/6.4 heads over the years.
 
Thanks Mike. I tried digging up that part # and didn't find anything more then you did. 4.094" is an odd size. On the head, that would be more down the road. Some dominoes have to fall first (gotta try and get a place set up on Dad's farm, honestly, YOU CAN'T IMAGINE, what a nightmare!) So really, anything I would want to do would be a couple years down the road. It would be for a 07 5.9.
 
Sleeving in itself to the a 5.9 bore doesn't get you to 6.4. There's another thread on this as well "somewhere else". When you do the math a std. 5.9 piston and 6.7 crank nets you 6.1L and a 0.040 5.9 piston get you to 6.2L. On the other hand a 41/8" bore does get you 6.4L. Hmmmm. I'm thinkin' some of what's lit the topic up this week might me including Darton sleeves, forged pistons, block filler, and a whole lot of machine work.

What's your guys thought on sleeving a 6.7 block down to a 5.9 bore size with a 6.7 crank for drag race application, making the cylinder wall thicker for Monotherm pistons? Does a 5.9 head work on a 6.7 block with no modifications and will everything else from the 5.9 motor bolt right on to the 6.7 block? Cam, timing cover etc?
 
It should make a very solid cylinder wall between the extra material (the added being extremely tough sleeve) and the Siamese structure. Others knowing more about 2.6 engines will hopefully jump in, but I know some 2.6 engines are built that way. You end up taking (IIRC) .080 thou off the pistons. The result is very high compression. That also changes the injector height to floor, and I'm not sure how that impacts. You'd think it wouldn't be centred in the "squish" height wise and be smokey/ drive heat into the piston, but I don't think Monotherms are going to care. On a standard 4.016 bore you end up with 6.1L and 4.056 bore 6.2L. I wondered about a build similar to that if a person was to try a CR version of Zach's fuel miser build. Of course empty pockets and Life get in the way.
 
What's your guys thought on sleeving a 6.7 block down to a 5.9 bore size with a 6.7 crank for drag race application, making the cylinder wall thicker for Monotherm pistons? Does a 5.9 head work on a 6.7 block with no modifications and will everything else from the 5.9 motor bolt right on to the 6.7 block? Cam, timing cover etc?

I think the general consensus is that a 5.9 head should be drilled for the steam holes in the 6.7 block. There are some that don't As far as sleeving a 6.7 to a smaller bore, it will definitely make the block stronger (assuming proper machine work and good ductile iron sleeves), but you'll limit yourself if you ever want to put a big valve in the head. Fleece is using a 4.88 stroke and a 4.15 bore to build their 6.4. Blacks uses a 4.72 stroke and 4.21+ bore with a decked 6.7 block to get roughly the same displacement. I cant think of anything on the block itself that wont work with your 5.9. Timing cover, cam, oil pan, etc is all the same.
 
What are the steam holes for? So what happens if you don't drill for the steam holes in the 5.9 head?


With those cylinder all joined together, coolant can't completely wrap around the cylinders. You get "corners" there that don't really circulate. The steam holes allow that hotter coolant to rise to the head and return to the rad, rather then just sit there until it pressure's up. Some guys on the forums don't drill out the holes. I'm not sure what the consequences would be- that much more pressure on the frost plugs at high duty cycle maybe?
 
With those cylinder all joined together, coolant can't completely wrap around the cylinders. You get "corners" there that don't really circulate. The steam holes allow that hotter coolant to rise to the head and return to the rad, rather then just sit there until it pressure's up. Some guys on the forums don't drill out the holes. I'm not sure what the consequences would be- that much more pressure on the frost plugs at high duty cycle maybe?

If you run a coolant by pass wouldn't that resolve the pressure issue and the rise of temperature?

If you run a 5.9 head on a 6.7 block do you run the 5.9 head gasket?
 
I wouldn't count on a bypass kit to improve circulation around the cylinder walls.

That's just my guess, as I don't have any first hand experience with running drilled vs undrilled head.
 
The main reason for me to run the 5.9 head vs the 6.7 head is my 5.9 head has side draft intake and porting work.
 
Anyone know if you run a 5.9 head on a 6.7 block do you run the 5.9 head gasket or the 6.7 head gasket?
 
Near as I know, if you return it to a 5.9 bore, you'd be using the 5.9 gasket. If you were using either the 6.7 head or a 5.9 head drilled for steam holes then I'm not sure. You'd have to check to see what's used there. I can't see drilling the 5.9 gasket and having that hold.
 
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