99 FL60 mutt/conversion/repower project build

I’d try 17


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16 to 18, and use the " mark the balancer method" and not plunger lift. It's alot easier and more accurate.
 
Problem being he actually needs to figure how much to roll it instead of "roll it back a half inch"

Balancer is bigger on a 8.3, so the amount to roll it will change. It'a also an assumption that it hasn't slipped, too, using that method.

I have a timing light Adam, I'd be up for giving you a hand with it, or doing it for you like we talked if we can make schedules work out. I do agree with the 16-18* mark as well.

Chris
 
Finding a delivery valve that's for and industrial pump... Makes me wonder what else is different....
Seriously thinking about pulling the front cover off and making sure timing marks line up
 
Signature600 said:
Problem being he actually needs to figure how much to roll it instead of "roll it back a half inch"

Balancer is bigger on a 8.3, so the amount to roll it will change. It'a also an assumption that it hasn't slipped, too, using that method.

I have a timing light Adam, I'd be up for giving you a hand with it, or doing it for you like we talked if we can make schedules work out. I do agree with the 16-18* mark as well.

Chris
Click to expand...

Yes your right, disregard the 1/2" comment.

Diameter of balancer × 3.1416 divided by 360 + degrees you want to advance.

Works easy as long as you know where the stock timing is pinned at.
 
And if you think there is a chance that it may have slipped just start over and pin the pump, tdc the engine and start over and go from there. If you go ahead and make a pointer and permantly mark your balancer you can make small changes and see the difference.
 
jasonc said:
And if you think there is a chance that it may have slipped just start over and pin the pump, tdc the engine and start over and go from there. If you go ahead and make a pointer and permantly mark your balancer you can make small changes and see the difference.
Click to expand...

Figured I'd do something similar to this...
 
jasonc said:
And if you think there is a chance that it may have slipped just start over and pin the pump, tdc the engine and start over and go from there. If you go ahead and make a pointer and permantly mark your balancer you can make small changes and see the difference.
Click to expand...

That's what I've always done as well. Makes it really nice with an adjustable gear, too.

Chris
 
First load delivered... Bouncing home nothing worth messing with down here... Plenty of stuff to do at home..
24313429_10213575273589751_2849124907314687617_o.jpg
 
Bouncing home??


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So what all is needing work?


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Front suspension needs to be taken back to stock. Ride better and fix the bump steer from the lift.. possible swap to air ride front. Drag link and tie rod end have either torn boots or completely missing boots... All tight still, AC/PW/PM, sound deadening, therm insulation, rust holes in the back of the cab, flaking rust underneath cab, windshield has various scratches and couple chips, wing window need glued to their hinges, weatherstripping, dual 90g tanks, tool box, rear fenders,
Frame rails
6 Alcoa's
Swap to 10bolt hub pilot from 8 bolt hub pilot

Fine tuning the Engine,
Maybe some anti idle stuff..
 
Good deal on getting there drama free! Always something else to do on a rig, eager to watch the progress. You think you'll be able to beat the duramax fuel millage once dialled in?

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