99 FL60 mutt/conversion/repower project build

Currently has 2 battery... Cranked little slow this morning at 17° still fired.. going to figure out how to add these other two batteries
 
malibu795 said:
Prefer stand pipe though.. get more out of the tank
Click to expand...

How so? Any tanks i have had with a stand pipe leaves 2-3" of unusable fuel in the bottom of the tank. Freightliner draw straws follow the contour of the tank and lay right in the bottom of the tank, able to draw the tank almost completely empty.
 
My stand pipe sits 1/2" off the bottom.. these Frieghtliner tanks have roughly 2" of fuel left when the suck air...
The stand pipe I put in my Pete tank on my LMM was 1/2" off the bottom
 
Am I the only one that doesn’t like running tanks till they are dry?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
BRE said:
Am I the only one that doesn’t like running tanks till they are dry?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Click to expand...

I've got rough 75-80 useable gallons.. I don't get very far at ~8mpg...
I want 1000mile comfortable range
I also don't like having unusable weight.. leaving 15-20gl at the bottom of a 150g tank is a waste imo..
I usually fill with 1/4-3/8 tank left
 
Last edited:
Is 160lbs really that big of a deal breaker in the ltl world?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
BRE said:
Is 160lbs really that big of a deal breaker in the ltl world?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Click to expand...

X2
Maybe it's the military in me... If it's not serving a functional purpose to help me reach what ever end goal I have... I don't really want it...

Example I don't carry winter clothing in the summer.. it's pointless
 
Last edited:
No I get ya, and I understand. My comment wasn’t made in jest, I was just asking.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
malibu795 said:
Yeah it will....

So a 463 is on par with a H1C ?!? That's what is stock


Possibly... Think if I'm floating the intake valves via boost ... And I have an adjustable waste gate... I'm gonna back the gate off see what happens...
Prefer stand pipe though.. get more out of the tank
Click to expand...

I mis typed. I meant what you currently have on there. An S464 has marginally more power potential and will drive way way worse.
 
I took it as a serious question.

Principle can really be applied to any business more so than hobbies/past time stuff
 
zfaylor said:
I mis typed. I meant what you currently have on there. An S464 has marginally more power potential and will drive way way worse.
Click to expand...

Ahh..
I am/was more after a larger turbine wheel (83) than compressor.. to help EGTs, seam the 68mm wheel starts choking above 1600rpm under heavy throttle... and I haven't really touched the 11mm pump let alone put the bigger injectors in.

It will hit 30psi by 1300rpm in the top gears.
Currently avgs 15-20# at 1600rpm cruising.. as I understand that should be roughly 1/2 that.. especially empty... bigger AR would move it to the right but I'm still shoving air through same whole diameter..
IDK if a 73/74mm s300 charger will relieve enough or not

The guy I ran across with a 8.3 in a 550 is running 472/ with a 87 turbin, and is having Industrial build on with a 472/91mm wheel.. he also spends more time north of 2000rpm than I plan on doing and makes alot more HP (700+) as well
 
Zach..
Specifically I'm looking at 463/83/.90 t4 or similar charger.. figured I'd mention that so you don't have to go hunting for the info.. 362/68/.83t4 is current
 
Couple videos not even 3/4 throttle.. response is nice
362/68 8.3 7L/7H split - YouTube

362/68 .83t4 8.3 6cta part throttle spool - YouTube
Said load on flat ground
24883629_10213608534901263_4021121056092578780_o.jpg
 
Check waste gate.. OEM setting starts opening about 30psi.. fully open by 40psi.. sine intake valves can't stay closed at 30psi I back the waste gate off 1 turn.. now opens at 25psi... Probably hurt me on AFC since I have a 30-35psi spring it obviously won't travel completely...
Maybe I'll pick up some MPG with valves staying closed more when they are supposed to... Got a ~1500 mile run from. Home to Charlotte NC to UP Michigan starting shortly..
Plus I'm putting the 60gl fuel tank from the dmax on as well.. sit it cross ways behind the cab
 
Definetly going to rethink heater core supply... There's and upper/lower passage in the block.. from what I've gathered and Chris can correct me.. coolant goes from water pump down the bottom of the block the comes back the top with steam holes for the head...
Heater core supply is bottom deck.. think in going to tap into the compressor coolant return
 
malibu795 said:
Definetly going to rethink heater core supply... There's and upper/lower passage in the block.. from what I've gathered and Chris can correct me.. coolant goes from water pump down the bottom of the block the comes back the top with steam holes for the head...
Heater core supply is bottom deck.. think in going to tap into the compressor coolant return
Click to expand...

Why not mimic a 5.9? Supply and return come out of the head.
 
Signature600 said:
Not getting much heat?

Chris
Click to expand...
1° temps at 70mph cools it off a bit.. plus weatherstripping needs replaced... That would kill some air flow out. Help if I got floor boards ductwork fixed too... Windows stay defrosted and clean though that's biggest issues

RockinRam96 said:
Why not mimic a 5.9? Supply and return come out of the head.
Click to expand...

The 8.3 head is essentially dry of coolant...there's steam holes and a 1/8" npt port going into the coolant filter .. that's it.

What I wanted to do but hits fun pulley and tensioner once everything is tight..
Fan switch is in the sensor and heater Supply is on the barbed fitting
22290057_10213136214693553_131767889737252967_o.jpg

23509490_10213410285985164_5830982495771285842_o.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top