Another oil thread! Geared toward street 2.5 truck

cetaneaddict

Causing my own headaches
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Aug 2, 2012
Messages
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I bought an EEP old 2.6 motor has had some work done. P&P head, balanced rotating assembly, O-ring'd head, 20:1 CR, 215/225 cam, only 60lb valve springs for some reason, upgraded locks/retainer, has cam bushings. Previous owner ran VR1 50w oil in it. What oil/additives should I run in his motor on the street ? It's now in a 2.5 street truck.
 
I'm still planning on driving it on the street. I think 50w is a little too thin for street.
 
Glad to see premium blue at the top. I get it free so never a bad day running it
 
Yes it is. I used to run rotela but this is free. The smell is way different and oil looks better after mileage
 
Napa has some 20w 50 valvoline. I may run that. After researching what guys are running in their pulling trucks. I just wonder how often I should change it on the street? I'm still waiting to hear back from EEP I called and left a message yesterday. I suspect the motor was built "loose" since it was a 2.6 motor.
 
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Napa has some 20w 50 valvoline. I may run that. After researching what guys are running in their pulling trucks. I just wonder how often I should change it on the street? I'm still waiting to hear back from EEP I called and left a message yesterday. I suspect the motor was built "loose" since it was a 2.6 motor.


That was one reason I suggested a synthetic.

Most reasons folks change in a puller is for fuel dilution as they are running it in high fueling situations.
 
I'm only running 5x.018's and a 12mm mild pump 5gsk,comp cuts, DIY afc mods, Mack rack plug...... I just got off the phone with carquest. They have brad penn 20w-50 in stock.........
 
We have been doing a lot research. But so far this is what I can tell you. You need to have a Zinc content of at least 1200ppm. I like 1400 plus. Because you are driving it on the street you need to have an oil with good detergents, that are built for street use. IE 15w40 or 20w50. If your just going to pull or race it, use a race oil. Do not use a CJ1 or a CJ4 Oil. It does not have enough zinc in it. Also you want an oil with an high TBN. 10-12. That means it will last longer. Also you want to look at how heat effects the oil. Oils that will hold up to heat longer will be better for you.

As far as oil change intervals this is what I feel will get you started. First if you pull it. You need to change it every 2-4 hooks. Probably closer to 2. That means you need to change it before driving home with it, and you may need too change before you pull. Next your probably looking at no more than a 3000 mile oil change just driving it on the street with no towing. With that in mind, at 500- 1000 miles, I would do an oil analysis test. This will tell you what your oil is doing. They will tell you how much more oil life you have. Depending on the what the test says, you may have to do it again in another 500-1000 miles. Once you find out through analysis, when the oil is broken down, or too dirty, that will be your change interval.
 
I run schaffers 50 in my puller and change it every 5 runs. I hve very little idle time as I have a dry block.
 
I did oil analysis for a few years on my puller. I had 6x.021 injectors in it with a 13mm pump. Truck got warmed up before each hook. Fuel dilution picked up about about 2% every hook. So I change mine at 5 hooks.
 
Going with brad penn 20-50 with zinc additive and a moly additive. It will probably have 200-300 miles on it before the pull on oct 3rd. I plan on trailering it down since its 133 miles from me. Just so I can get a baseline before next year. It will also be freshened up in the spring before the season starts next year. Since this motor is new to me.
 
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