ARP 425's who has the right way to install?

Silver6spd said:
what is the point to loosen the bolt and retorque to the next ft-lb's? I would think that you get better results if you stayed where it was and just torqued where you last let off, what is a good setting to torque to before you crank up the truck and let it warm up or do you drive it and let it warm up that way?
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The nut will always rotate several more degrees for a given torque spec after relieving clamp load, as opposed to simply clicking off another pass with the torque wrench.
Since the majority of torque is used to overcome thread friction, nut re-torque counter-rotation allows the threads & washer face to seat better on the head's thrust faces & stud threads' pressure side - polishing of the mating surfaces is not a bad way to describe it.

Using the block heater is an easy way to warm the engine without running it.

morkable said:
Kinda like if you are trying to push a car out of a hole, you sorta get a rocking motion to help it get out... at least that is what my theory is.
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morkable said:
What too technical talk for you?
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Yeah, but your analogy was kinda funny! :hehe:
 
LOL I know,, I was trying to make it as easy to understand as I could,, hard for a guy that is already challenged as I am,, LOL
 
XLR8R said:
The nut will always rotate several more degrees for a given torque spec after relieving clamp load, as opposed to simply clicking off another pass with the torque wrench.
Since the majority of torque is used to overcome thread friction, nut re-torque counter-rotation allows the threads & washer face to seat better on the head's thrust faces & stud threads' pressure side - polishing of the mating surfaces is not a bad way to describe it.

Using the block heater is an easy way to warm the engine without running it.

That's the best explanation I've heard. Always questioned the reasoning for loosening first. Block heater use is another good idea to pursue.
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so you can use the block heater to go through the heat cyclesand then retorque thanks
 
Sure - even though the MLS doesn't compress like a 12V (so ignoring it for the moment), retorques basically exchange thread friction for clamp load.
 
Heard this tip today

You take a small machined block and put it over each hole to make sure you do not have a "mole-like hole" that is slightly raised around the hole. This is caused by "Over Torqueing." Before you say that's a dumb idea,... it came from Fletcher! According to Bill the use of the oversized studs causes this when combined with the over torque.
 
can i use the block heater without having the injectors, rockers and valve cover on? thanks sent my injectors out!
 
I did my retorques.

My 625's with new MLS HG

Cold up to 150

Cranked and ran it ....drove very carefully to full opp. temp for 15-20 mins..

Another Cold torque by backing off and the retorque to 150..

Cranked and drove for a few days not going over 40 psi..

Then did one warm torque by just pulling them to 150-152 (Not loosening each, just pull and make sure it's still at 150+..

If they are new studs, I would definately do the recommended backing off and retorque simply for the threads like explained above..( mine had already been cycled the full three times on my last two motors....lol)
 
Chamfering the block threads is a great way to avoid crowning the holes with high pull-out stresses.
 
so i torqued them from 90 to 110 and then 130 i believe. stock gasket as well took them out one at a time, tightened them all to 90 then started over. backed each one off then went to 110 then backed off and through the cycle again to 130. used plenty of lube arp lube on the washers, bolts and threads.

hopefully this is a good way to do it.
i want to know if i can run the block heater with no injectors , rockers or valve cover on and get the desired heat sequences in so then i can retorque while my injectors are being gone over?
 
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