Best Everyday P-7100 tweaks on the cheap

Smokem said:
The plate profile has no effect on fueling until the AFC lever is past the frontside of the plate. Dependent on the aneroid tensioin this will require midrange fueling before this happens. So in essence the AFC lever controls much more of the fuel curve than the fuel plate, this is why if you look at a dyno graph from a truck with a #0 or no plate it is still fueling smoothly. I'm not trying to contradict anyone, but I will guarantee that I can make more power and a smoother fuel curve than any #5 or #6 fuel plate.
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unless you chop the foot off your afc and then have a #0 plate then you fuel like mad preboost but pull like wild fire once boost hits. LOL
 
moneymaker44 said:
unless you chop the foot off your afc and then have a #0 plate then you fuel like mad preboost but pull like wild fire once boost hits. LOL
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Just remove it.. LOL

My AFC foot is now my right foot :st:

Brad
 
Ridemywideglide said:
Just remove it.. LOL

My AFC foot is now my right foot :st:

Brad
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i know thats right ! roll into the trottle light if any smoke but take a quick take off i can black out the sun before boost :rockwoot:
 
Yep... Works great when you see bicycler's hogging the damn road too.. Slow to about 55 in 5th, mash it and watch them disappear.. :hehe: :rockwoot: :shake:


None of you guys are sprocket heads are ya?? :poke: :pop:
 
None of you guys are sprocket heads are ya??
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If they are and they live around here, they have black lung! I always like the ones that ride in the middle of the road to 'protect' the other riders in their spandex-flaunting pack. I guess the 2200 rpm drone is good for something after all.

brandon.
 
Ridemywideglide said:
Just remove it.. LOL

My AFC foot is now my right foot :st:

Brad
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i removed my afc arm and it makes it much harder to build a little lowend boost because i can dump so much fuel in that i put the fire out. i am going to put it back in first chance i get. and i usally cut off the front of the afc arm where it slide on the rod to get the last extra bit of rack travel. right now my truck has no plate and no arm. it can drop some smoke.
 
Ridemywideglide said:
Just remove it.. LOL

My AFC foot is now my right foot :st:

Brad
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just be careful with this route!! I set up my truck this way, but as long as i ease into the throttel i take off great, but. If i stomp on it, i put out the fire and by the time it rekindles the competition is long gone!!:bang :bang :bang :bang
 
AsTroSS said:
Here is picture of Mack truck (with P-7100 fuel pump) front rack plug, it allows more fuel rack travel.

174-7444_IMG.JPG


more fuel= more power :ylsuper:
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Just noting the Mack Plug is a start.
Now lets find it & install it.:thankyou2:

I've got mine on order now. :rockwoot:
It will be in by this weekend, without removal of the pump.
WAYNES WORLD
 
best Everyday P-7100 tweaks on the cheap

inline6359 said:
just be careful with this route!! I set up my truck this way, but as long as i ease into the throttel i take off great, but. If i stomp on it, i put out the fire and by the time it rekindles the competition is long gone!!:bang :bang :bang :bang
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inline6359,

I have that issue right now with the AFC in tact-------:st:
That is with the star wheel 3/4 of the way back--------:evil

WAYNES WORLD
 
I know this is a old thread but I was also looking for a pic. of a before and after of the afc arm. I have the rack plug and i'm just waiting to put it in. Thanks
 
We need Smokem to bring back the old info thread!!! All the info and pictures you need and Smokem if you dont want to deal with the BS, make them a sticky and lock them down:Cheer: PLEASE
 
bh10 said:
We need Smokem to bring back the old info thread!!! All the info and pictures you need and Smokem if you dont want to deal with the BS, make them a sticky and lock them down:Cheer: PLEASE
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X2. His posts were very helpful to me. Especially being a CR guy I need the pictures every now and again.
 
ill try and describe what to do to the arm, the arm looks like the shape of a "L", and the afc arm when adjusted properly will ride on the bottom edge of the "L", now the is a shaft the the arm rides on, and goes straight through the arm, there are two ways to gain more rack travel, by either grinding off some material where the rack lever makes contact with the afc arm, or by grinding material off of the front of the barrel of the afc arm where the shaft rides through the arm. both gain rack travel, but there can be a downside to grinding too much material off of the face of the arm where it makes contact with the rack lever. if you take alot of material off there, you will loose the ability to control smoke down low with little no boost. now im not saying you can't remove material in that location, i removed maybe 1-1.5mm, and made it flat. if you notice most of the arms have a weird cut, or slant that is not perpindicular to the other edge. i did not like that, so i just made it flat, and 90* to the other edge. now at the barrel on the arm where the shaft goes through the arm, i removed about 2-3mm of material. after doing this, if you apply shop air, and let the arm extend all the way, you will notice that the barrel that you just ground down does not bottom out at the housing???? why is this? take a look at the washer on the shaft, the washer is bottomed out against the afc housing. if done right, you should have about 15.5mm of travel from all the way back to all the way forward. now the rack lever arm will travel about 5mm befor eit evne makes contact with the afc arm. now you do all of this, and reasemble the afc, after you have ground down the washers of course. notice how did not say just flip the washers, the one washer has a lip on it, and if you just flip it, that will give you more rack travel forward, but you then will loose the abililty to alow the afc arm to come all the way back to control smoke. by gringind the lip off of the washer, and smoothing out the edge so you dont cut the afc diaphram, you now have the ability to control your rack arm all the way through it's travel. the only 2 adjustments you will ever need to make on the pump is with the coarse smoke adjustment screw that is located on the back of the housing, and the starwheel that will control how much boost is needed to make the arm move out of the way, and allow rack travel. for the initial setting, back the coarse screw all the way out and then thread in untill it just touches the shaft that moves the afc arm. you may need to adjust this after driving the truck, it is possible to make the initial rack travel before boost allows the arm to travel further less than stock. this can really happen if you do not have the afc slid all the way forward. you will know if this happens because the truck will just be a dog down low, and them come alive in the mid to upper boost once the arm has moved out of the way. if you encounter this, all you need to do is loosen the jam nut, and thread the screw in about 2-3mm, or untill you feel that the truck has good power off the line, or in low boost. once you have that dialed in, it is just a matter of fine tuning the starwheel for spring pressure. that really the only adjustment you are going to need to make! it is that simple! there is no rocket science to this AFC modificaiton, and how to tune it. hope this helps! sorry i dont have any pics, ill see if i can get Weston to post up his pics.

Wes
 
That has to be the largest paragraph Ive ever seen....
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I really like the lack of capitol letter usage which makes it hard to follow and and read too.......:blahblah1::stab::poke::doh:.....LOL
 
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