Big turbo, big injectors, big problems

The high power compounds.Got billed in April,didn't get shipped till July after phone calls every two weeks,and being told every two weeks it'll be a couple weeks.When they finally shipped about seventy percent of the kit showed up with absolutely no install instructions so I didn't even know if I had all the parts,I about had to beg for a set of instructions.A week later another two boxes show up with some pipes,a week after that another box with coolant lines and other parts.Had to call again to get the intake tubes they forgot to send.Oh yeah when the instructions finaaly got sent they were incomplete,nothing about the wastegate regulators or oil and coolant lines.Numerous phone calls later finally got them.Many calls were never returned.Even after I told them I didn't want to come on the forums and bash them,they still refused to get their **** together.
Tadd went smart-ass on me,telling me if I didn't like the product I could send it back.Yeah,right the cab's off the truck and 80% of the work is done that ain't happenin'.Anybody think I oughta back charge them for all the extra time and fabbing that went into this "kit"?


not to rag too hard, but if you are seriously considering a project of that magnitude it would make sense to be pretty knowledgeable of the way compounds work, and wastegates and boost controllers in general... aside from maybe a few instructions on which nuts/bolts/fittings are for what, connnecting everything and hooking up wastegates is a pretty straightforward affair ... i just dont think someone w/out the knowledge of how all that kind of stuff works in advance shouldn't try tackling a project of that size personally...
ALTHOUGH>>> i feel your pain i know what you are saying, and if a company is advertising and selling a "bolt on" kit for the masses then you absolutely correct, it SHOULD come complete, it should come with instructions detailed, and the pieces should all fit....
 
Make sure you don't use to much of the D-max tuning as basis for the Ford tuning. For instance you can run like 28 degrees of timing in the d-max and that will blow the 6.0 pretty fast.

let's not forget about the old predator tunes for the 6.0 that had like 29degrees of timing. !! does anyone remember those ! !
 
well with eric's tune the truck still won't spool but goes real good for about 10 seconds then shakes violently starts skipping and stalls

no amount of tuning will help spool a turbo that large if you are trying to drive it on the street..
but hook up 100HP shot of nitrous and watch that thing wake up !!
 
in that whole post, I read one thing... soot-elite injectors-225s. Welcome to your new life. The soot won't go ANYWHERE haha I have the same exact problem. I'm running a smaller turbo, granted, but no one has ever seen a truck smoke like this. I need videos. My local track (atco raceway) has waited 2 minutes before letting the next run go because of my smoke.
I've come to the point that the nozzles on the 225s flow closer to 275s and just effect the truck in all those ways.

I hope you get this worked out, sucks when you do all this work and nothing seems to work right. Been there too many times.

welcome to my world nate !!! i'm so glad i decided on going back to 200 !!

and OP, when you change injectors try not to drive the truck hard for a few hundred miles.. mine would "skip/misfire" often after the last injector swap, and to this day even with certain tunes it will not idle smoothly at all even once warmed up..

no matter what tune is in, the truck WILL NOT idle smooth or be driveable at all until it is completely up to operating temperature. diesels need heat to operate, and large injectors with large fuel spray patterns will not light off and burn as efficiently at cooler cylinder temperatures.

i have to start my truck 20 minutes before i go anywhere every day.
 
Hell my 190's leave soot all over the bumper and rear of the bed. 295's have to be horrible for a daily.

so true... 200's are cold blooded and i cant drive the truck at all until it's HOT... i couldn't imagine trying to daily drive w/much more injector than what i already have. i feel bad for nate.

fortunately eric is the bomb with tuning, and has me a really good tune that almost makes NO visible smoke (read: HP) around town until the hammer drops completely and then it's all over but the crying because all 4 lanes of highway will be shut down for a few minutes after i pass !!!

i would seriously rather go back to bone stock than to try and daily drive a truck with the setup that the OP is describing.. it would make me pull my hair out every time i left the house, not to mention the letters from the DMV that will be pouring in IF you are lucky enough to not get pulled over by every cop that gets behind you !! so far i've only received letters
 
how is your part throttle drivability ? this thing sucks !!! with erics tune or any other it just poors smoke out !! i've beeen tuning it with sct pro race for about 6 hrs now got it going good no breaking up but i think the converter is way to tight to let it spool it's an ats stalling @ 1600

i see part of your problem already... the lowest i ran was an 1800 and it worked amazing for a vgtss style turbo, however with my large single i've run higher stall (even a couple over 3000 just to see) and i have currently got about a 2100-2200 stall (bascially stock stall speed) but would recomend the suncoast 2500 for that setup... that 1600 will do nothing but cause you burn up everthing in site due to high egt's and high ATF temps...

changing my stall speed in my converter dropped my ATF temps from 200degrees daily driving right back down to 160
 
I have elite 275's and they are great injectors, there is no way to stop these injectors from smoking on the street, you can make minimal smoke if you drive it easy. I have a 66 Silver bullet and i have a hard time building 5lbs off the line power braking, but that is bcz my converter needs changed to a 25-2800 stall.

awesome man looks good... even with a HIGH stall converter i had a hard time getting more than about 4-5psi off the line ... i've gone back to a 2100-2200 unit and i like it. although i'm only running 200cc sticks so my 66mm is maxing around 46psi at full burn.
 
no matter what tune is in, the truck WILL NOT idle smooth or be driveable at all until it is completely up to operating temperature. diesels need heat to operate, and large injectors with large fuel spray patterns will not light off and burn as efficiently at cooler cylinder temperatures.

i have to start my truck 20 minutes before i go anywhere every day.

That is a problem with your injectors...NOT the nature of big injectors.
I've run everything between 190's and 275's...some I liked and some were just too big....but they ALL started and idled just fine when they were healthy.

If your truck is doing that with 200's in it....one of them is bad...period.
 
not to hijack....but whats a good stall for just some small stage 2 injectors...think mines 1800 or so right now...seems like 2100 would be good..? but dont know if its worth pullin the trans and shippin it to PI to get changed..

you're good bro for now.. you still running a VGTSS type turbo right ?? my 1800 stall converter was PERFECT for that turbo !!
 
I would say so, I made 476 with a set of Cass 190's and a beans turbo, with a bad HPOP. That sucks man, but know there are a few folks out there working on the HPOP problem on the 6.0.

yeah definitely bro !! i made 479 w/ cass's 175's on stock fuel.. and 508 on them with a FASS !! ah.. the sad thing is that i miss that setup because all an extra 150HP does is add problems !! ! ! !
 
That is a problem with your injectors...NOT the nature of big injectors.
I've run everything between 190's and 275's...some I liked and some were just too big....but they ALL started and idled just fine when they were healthy.

If your truck is doing that with 200's in it....one of them is bad...period.

really.. that sucks.. i thought about that too but i got them from josh and he' hasn't answered any of my calls since the last one broke and he sent me a new nozzle for it so i doubt i'll get any support in that area. .there are no codes after they were installed and checked, how can i pinpoint which one is bad ???

and why would it run well once it was warmed up ??
 
and it's getting worse.. now every once in a while even when it's warmed up it will idle rough with certain tunes, and last night on the freeway it felt down on power... noticeably.. :(
 
Holy ****ing Separate Quote. The button in the middle of the box is the multi-quote button. Use it. 38 separate posts makes it look like you are mentally retarded "bro".
 
Holy ****ing Separate Quote. The button in the middle of the box is the multi-quote button. Use it. 38 separate posts makes it look like you are mentally retarded "bro".

at least every post i made had something to do with a response to a post..
nice waste of space dugg...

and ANYTIME you wanna test IQ's feel free , check first before you call someone a retard.. 174 all day long any time you feel smart lets do it bro.

i've better things to do than spend EVERY available on the internet learning what a button marked only with "-" is supposed to mean. i have a life..

when one of YOUR tuned trucks is making the numbers that people are talking about then maybe i'll respect something you say, until then keep playing with miss piggie and the rest of us will be waiting for your customers to catch up to us.
 
and before you say it, YES my truck is wounded and misfiring and i'll still put up 1000bucks against your truck.. i'll be in phoenix october 4 DITD event if you want any... my injector has been bad for months and i still ran my best time with it in it's current condition....

seriously dude, you're supposed to be a business owner and a representative of the diesel aftermarket and you waste bandwidth and people's time on a totally meaningless post like that ??? you probably still don't know why everyone laughs at you do you ?
 
really.. that sucks.. i thought about that too but i got them from josh and he' hasn't answered any of my calls since the last one broke and he sent me a new nozzle for it so i doubt i'll get any support in that area. .there are no codes after they were installed and checked, how can i pinpoint which one is bad ???

and why would it run well once it was warmed up ??

and before you say it, YES my truck is wounded and misfiring and i'll still put up 1000bucks against your truck.. i'll be in phoenix october 4 DITD event if you want any... my injector has been bad for months and i still ran my best time with it in it's current condition....

seriously dude, you're supposed to be a business owner and a representative of the diesel aftermarket and you waste bandwidth and people's time on a totally meaningless post like that ??? you probably still don't know why everyone laughs at you do you ?
What is it? One post your wondering if it's a bad injector, a day later your "sub 12 second" wonder truck has been wounded for months. I'd figure with an I.Q. that high, you would remember what bs you spewed the day before. Or at least be smart enough to go back and re-read it.
 
thank you dalpilot, now back to the people who have had relevant info. i'm either swapping the injectors or doing a common rail swap on this truck soon. the customer is totaly willing to spend money to make it right but he is finally coming to the reality that a driveable 800 hp fuel only powerstroke isn't going to happen. so he may sell what he can and build a cr for it.
 
What is it? One post your wondering if it's a bad injector, a day later your "sub 12 second" wonder truck has been wounded for months. I'd figure with an I.Q. that high, you would remember what bs you spewed the day before. Or at least be smart enough to go back and re-read it.

the sticks have been in since the first week of july. from day one of having the 200's in the truck would not idle smooth until it was completely warmed up and up to temp. once it warmed up it would idle smooth and run perfectly smooth, however #2 injector nozzle tip broke off 3 days later and went thru the motor. josh sent a new nozzle and we put it back in. i'm wondering if this is the injector that i think is giving me problems NOW.
the 11 second run was made after getting the converter changed a couple weeks due to the sprag inside being cracked in half and not allowing me to stall up the motor and launch it..
ever since then the truck has been running very rough.. now the idle is very rough and will not smooth out even once it's completely warmed up. the truck does not run smoothly when hot now either, and you can hear/feel it misfire when driving. it does smooth out every once in a while but only for a few minutes and then goes back to running rough, which is why i suspect maybe (hopefully)just some sort of electrical gremlin and not a major repair, fingers crossed...

i had thought previously the 'cold start' issue was simply something that i had to live with when running larger injectors, since it ran fine once warm. UNBROKEN told me the other day however that even with larger sticks than mine, his would idle smoothly even when started cold and that he believes that there is a bad injector and always has been...

with that said, i have not contradicted myself at any time.. when i stated my truck has been wounded for several months, that's because i just found out that the sticks were always questionable.. the problem has been getting progressively worse now by the day ever since i left the track and i'm now down well over 100HP from a few weeks ago.. you seem quick to jump on my back because it's the cool thing to do, but doesn't bother me man. as a matter of fact kind of makes me proud in a way, everyone in a big hurry to hate but knowing that my truck wasn't even at 100% when i cracked off a good time makes me look forward to what it will do once i get it dialed in. i'd be willing to bet that a majority of the so called fast guys on here (and i'm not talking about you LEGIT fast guys like dal, unbroken, redneck, furo, weweld, elmo, etc) aren't at that level on a GOOD day for them..
 
Back
Top