Blown Head Gasket, Pulled Head Tonight And....

Hot Torque?

A1 recommend different things from ARP? I always thought everything was a cold torque.

I just finished doing mine too. Not much fun at all. These heads are not light. :)

Truck :: Headgasket
 
Nick, I put up a thread a couple years ago about hot or cold retorques, and the concensus on here was cold retorques.
 
MD-LUCKY said:
Hot Torque?

A1 recommend different things from ARP? I always thought everything was a cold torque.

I just finished doing mine too. Not much fun at all. These heads are not light. :)

Truck :: Headgasket
Click to expand...

Sorry about the hijack,

What injectors are you running?

this pic of the piston looks weird.
headgasket8.jpg
 
tony597fitter said:
Nick, I put up a thread a couple years ago about hot or cold retorques, and the concensus on here was cold retorques.
Click to expand...

Cold torques makes sense to me but it's hard for me to argue what's written in directions from A1 and also people that do head stud installs for a living. At this time i'm just going to play it by ear. Given the truck only has 20 degrees of timing in it and i'm going to be running a smaller charger I think ima be fine. Certainly better off then before I started
 
i don't know why it is so hard for people to understand why a hot retoque is better than a cold one? it makes alot more sense when you are trying to fully seat a headgasket, and the end result will be better. just follow the directions nick, do at least 3-4 hot retorques, and you have a good sealed head.

Wes
 
I think the fight between hot and cold comes from the fight between stud engineer and engine builder.
1. Engine builder states that he gets more "squish" on the headgasket when torqued hot.
2. Stud engineer states that stud's yield strength is calculated at standard temp around 70*F. You torque it hot and you might "over-stress" the stud.



I think it boils down to one question: Do you care more about breaking a stud or the quality of the seal at the head gasket?

One more question to lead you in the right direction: Does your headgasket have to hold up to your hotrodding when the engine is hot or cold? If you hotrod on a warm engine, you probably want to make sure the studs are good and tight when the engine is warm. If you hotrod on a cold motor, better make sure the studs are tight when the engine is cold.
 
Head is back on and all is good so far. Going to drive it a few days easy then hot torque again.

p.s. Why in the hell doesn't someone make a taller valve cover set for these motors? With all the people hotrodding and customizing them with paint, polish, whatever and the pain in the ass of having to make sure the stud is exactly flush with the top of the nut and still then having to grind the inside of the valve cover it just seems like something that was overlooked and shouldn't have been. :what:
 
arp addressed that issue, and you have to mill down the rocker pedestal for the stud that they use in the newer kits, they had a issue back int he day with the valve covers clearing, so they shortend the stud, and you have to now mill the pedestals.

Wes
 
wdimig said:
arp addressed that issue, and you have to mill down the rocker pedestal for the stud that they use in the newer kits, they had a issue back int he day with the valve covers clearing, so they shortend the stud, and you have to now mill the pedestals.

Wes
Click to expand...

Yeah, I know which is 90% of the reason I went with the A1s. Milling the rockers would require taking my daily driver off the road which I wasn't interested in doing. I don't have anything in my garage i'd be comfortable using to do the necessary machining to the rocker pedastools.
 
i don't think that is a issue, i had a one day turn around with mine, cost me $30 for all 6 to be milled to arp's instructions, infact the machinist had acutally dont a couple of sets before so i knew they would come out right. i had them back the next day. i wont have to worry about my valve covers not being seated right, or leaking out the top.

Wes
 
I haven't tried it yet, but I think that all the "machining" required could be done with a drill press and an end mill. Easy stuff for the average joe to find and use.
 
I cold torqued my ARP's to 120-125 and have sprayed water/meth and run 45-50psi of boost and haven't had any problems in 4 years.
 
My hot torqued A1's are holding a used head gasket....:thankyou2:

When the cam siezed I said screw it and put it back on just to see if it would work. Guess I got my money's worth with A1's.
 
mondtster said:
I haven't tried it yet, but I think that all the "machining" required could be done with a drill press and an end mill. Easy stuff for the average joe to find and use.
Click to expand...

This is correct, I used a drill press and a 1" end mill bit, worked very well just have to go verry slow and keep checking your depth. Piece of cake.
 
wdimig said:
i don't know why it is so hard for people to understand why a hot retoque is better than a cold one? it makes alot more sense when you are trying to fully seat a headgasket, and the end result will be better. just follow the directions nick, do at least 3-4 hot retorques, and you have a good sealed head.

Wes
Click to expand...

It would also depend on your thermal expansion of your head vs. the studs. If the head expands more, then the stretch on your studs increases as it heats up. A hot torque would then would reduce the clamp load at operating temp. compared to a cold torque.
 
mondtster said:
I haven't tried it yet, but I think that all the "machining" required could be done with a drill press and an end mill. Easy stuff for the average joe to find and use.
Click to expand...

My machinest used a end mill to do mine.. He did them while I waited.
 
From only one hot torque I saw a decrease in lash, over .004" in some rockers, so I'm fairly certain the head was pulled down farther with the o-ring traveling deeper in to the fire ring.
 
silverram323 said:
Sorry about the hijack,

What injectors are you running?

this pic of the piston looks weird.
headgasket8.jpg
Click to expand...

Hell, just say what you're thinking. LOL

The injector is spraying WAY out of the bowl.

I saw that and knew I would be replacing them in the future. They are Jammers.
 
MD-LUCKY said:
Hell, just say what you're thinking. LOL

The injector is spraying WAY out of the bowl.

I saw that and knew I would be replacing them in the future. They are Jammers.
Click to expand...

LOL, Yup that's what i was thinking.

Just wanted to know who made them for mental note.

THANKS...
 
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