Breaking axle bolts

They aren't coming lose, they are sheering off. I lost one set on saturday, pulled a set out of another axle, put them in, and sheered them on the first hook, down at the end of the track.
 
Carefull what you wish for, it is probably better to break an axle bolt or two than it is to break an axle or two... It is always best if the weakest link is an inexpensive part that you can have extras on the trailer!
 
Carefull what you wish for, it is probably better to break an axle bolt or two than it is to break an axle or two... It is always best if the weakest link is an inexpensive part that you can have extras on the trailer!

This isn't drag racing where you can drive back and put new bolts in and make another pass. You get one, maybe two runs per event. You shouldn't break an axle shaft if buy good parts.
 
Carefull what you wish for, it is probably better to break an axle bolt or two than it is to break an axle or two... It is always best if the weakest link is an inexpensive part that you can have extras on the trailer!


The problem with busting the bolts is the shock load it puts on the rest of the system. Build it not to break, eliminate the fuses.
 
This isn't drag racing where you can drive back and put new bolts in and make another pass. You get one, maybe two runs per event. You shouldn't break an axle shaft if buy good parts.

Good point!

The problem with busting the bolts is the shock load it puts on the rest of the system. Build it not to break, eliminate the fuses.

Another good point!

Talk to the guys at Branik Motorsports Branik Motorsports, they build some serious axles for serious rock crawlers and rock racers. They know how to build stuff to take serious abuse and live to tell about it! Talk about shock loads the stuff these guys put their rigs through is crazy! They have the capability of machining 300M axles for any length immaginable and really know their stuff. They may have some suggestions for you. I have turned a few other pullers on to them and they have been happy as far as I know. I know they will be doing some axle work on my project truck! Ask for Stan or Brandon (father and son owners of the company) and tell them that Chris Tobin told you to call. They will take good care of you and I think their prices are pretty darn good too!
 
Good point!



Another good point!

Talk to the guys at Branik Motorsports Branik Motorsports, they build some serious axles for serious rock crawlers and rock racers. They know how to build stuff to take serious abuse and live to tell about it! Talk about shock loads the stuff these guys put their rigs through is crazy! They have the capability of machining 300M axles for any length immaginable and really know their stuff. They may have some suggestions for you. I have turned a few other pullers on to them and they have been happy as far as I know. I know they will be doing some axle work on my project truck! Ask for Stan or Brandon (father and son owners of the company) and tell them that Chris Tobin told you to call. They will take good care of you and I think their prices are pretty darn good too!


Already have the driveline built about as much as you can, 300M 37 spline, 1480 ujoints,, big axles in the front, heavy duty cover, etc, etc.
 
Already have the driveline built about as much as you can, 300M 37 spline, 1480 ujoints,, big axles in the front, heavy duty cover, etc, etc.

But since you are still having problems, give Stan a call tomorrow and maybe he has a solution for you... Can't hurt! He really is a great guy!!! And he will be doing more and more stuff with the diesel industry in the future...
 
Dan I should have my new upgraded bolts tomorrow, all of the ones that did not break on mine have the threads flatend out where the axle was hitting. It was only a matter of time.
 
so i had a 95 f350 dually with 200k+ on the odometer, i sheared the bolts about 0nce every 3 to 4 months. I towed alot and beat the chit out of it. The rearend was makin some noise one day so i rebuilt it with new ring and pinion, bearings, etc... Never had the problem again. There was tons of slop in the mesh of the gears, hub bearings were always good.
Just my experience, even though its ford junk.
 
When the thermometer drops below 100 this evening I will go out and pull the cover.
 
When the thermometer drops below 100 this evening I will go out and pull the cover.

It's rediculous isn't it?

I'm going to go pull my front ARB out right now, here's what weather.com says...

Sunny Temperature:93°F
Feels Like: 118°
Details:Extreme heat index. Outdoor exposure should be limited.
 
I would start with checking the holes in your axle flanges. If some of the holes are ovaled out, they would be loaded unevenly causing 1 to break then the next.... And so on.
You could swap axles from side to side and see if you have the same results, I bet you don't.
If the flanges look ok, go to the hardware store and pic up a set of socket head cap screws. If the size is 1/2"-13, torque them up to 90 ft/lbs with some sort of lube, ie anti-seize in a star pattern until they are all tighted evenly.
You aren't just relying on the shear capacity of the bolt, but also the fiction from clamp load between the axle and hub which turns out to be approximately 88000 lbs of clamp load.
 
I had the same problem with mine backing out and popping the head off too. I went down to the local CAT dealer and got some of their HD bolts and haven't had an issue in 3 years. I was replacing them every couple months just racing around town and beating on the truck hard. Chris
 
I had the same problem with mine backing out and popping the head off too. I went down to the local CAT dealer and got some of their HD bolts and haven't had an issue in 3 years. I was replacing them every couple months just racing around town and beating on the truck hard. Chris


Thanks all for the advice. The axles don't have 10 hooks on them, the flanges better be straight.
I am using some cat bolts 170000 PSI tensile.
 
Cat bolts are where its at, the may be stamped grade 8 but they are stronger than anything else out there.
 
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