Budget Beater!

Have you removed the compressor cover on the turbo to see if the compressor wheel is still in-tact?

There's no way for the thrust bearing on the turbo to end up in the intake tract.
 
I haven't removed the cover yet. I just noticed that it has a lot of shaft play and was throwing around ideas in my head of other possibilities. To me it seems extremely hard for a ring to make its way up there. I have checked everything else that I can think of and everything seems to be in place
 
Well I pulled the springs and valves out of the head and found what caused the problem. I must have missed it when I first looked at everything. The intake valve seat in the #2 must have fallen out the last time I shut the truck off. Stupid valve seats!
 
Lostnwalmart said:
I dont think the older 12v's had pressed in valve seats.. but I cant remember correctly.
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If its had head work before and they found a crack between valves there is a good chance they machined it and put in valve seats as a cheaper solution vs buying a new head.


Sent from my iPhone during class
 
I have all the paper work since it was fresh off the lot. At about 130k miles the head was cracked and the paperwork said it was replaced with a new head but who knows.
 
Well I was just quoted this for all the work to be done. Seems like a good price to me.

Bore block $126.
Deck block $90.
Valve job 12 valve $162.
Surface head $65.

The parts will also be hot tanked and be pretty much ready for paint.

So now all I need to figure out is what size valves to run, what seats to use and what color to paint everything.
 
yep, im Tyler Kipp. 2nd place in Aftermarket Single Turbo w/ fuel only and 1st in Unlimited with a small shot of NOS
This is from the April issue of Diesel World.
 
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TTR 21 said:
Well I was just quoted this for all the work to be done. Seems like a good price to me.

Bore block $126.
Deck block $90.
Valve job 12 valve $162.
Surface head $65.

The parts will also be hot tanked and be pretty much ready for paint.

So now all I need to figure out is what size valves to run, what seats to use and what color to paint everything.
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Where you going to get machine work done?
 
Sorry to hear about your luck but good to hear you found the problem as that is a large part of dealing with these kind of things. Also glad to hear these bottom ends remain strong even on nitrous! I'm sure you'll get her back going strong again!
 
TTR 21 said:
It is northwest actually. Moscow, ID to be exact.
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Right on man goodluck sounds like its going to work out for you!

I think Sam was talking about the shop northwest motor machine in caldwell not the northwest area.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk
 
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