Build - 9 second drag truck #racegreen

Thanks guys.

I've learned a new respect for people who work with sheet metal on a regular basis, and I have a whole new set of tools I want to buy!

Almost done...
 

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looks like you have it all figured out. Where are these tanks going and what are they for?
 
I'm getting there. I'm not anywhere near happy with the results but for my first real aluminum project, I'm okay with it.

They are aux. fuel tanks for a sled running in the world's longest snowmobile race. It's kinda funny now that I think about it, I'm sponsoring a team that's racing my step brother.:rockwoot:
 

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I'm getting there. I'm not anywhere near happy with the results but for my first real aluminum project, I'm okay with it.

They are aux. fuel tanks for a sled running in the world's longest snowmobile race. It's kinda funny now that I think about it, I'm sponsoring a team that's racing my step brother.:rockwoot:

Gotcha. I missed that part earlier in your thread.
 
Well.....

The tanks are done and the rest of my tubing showed up. Time to get back to work on the race truck!!!

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Finally back to the chassis work! It doesn't look like much but I finalized the location of the rear crossmember, which the rest of the chassis will use as a datum. Then I was able to cut the body to allow for the main hoop and the rear stringers. The challenge was to locate the rear crossmember where it would clear the rear driveshaft, cab mounts, and still allow for a straight and perpendicular attachment of the main hoop. Unless using ladder bars, the rear crossmember must be one piece per SFI 25.5c, or you have to build it out of 2x3 rec tube.
 

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I needed a way to cut two perfectly aligned notches in the bottom of my frame to accept the rear crossmember. If I had the frame laying upside down where I could work on it easily I might have just cut them in with a plasma and a grinder, but there was no way I wanted to do that laying on my back under the truck. It took me some time, but I finally figured out how to do it, and do it accurately, without having hot slag in my armpit.

I clamped a length of 3/8" x .062 tubing from the outside edge of one frame rail, across the bottom of the frame, all the way over to the tube I set through the floor to represent the bottom leg of my main hoop. This allowed me to align the little tube front to back based on the main hoop location. Then I tack welded the tube to the bottom of the frame and cut it approximately flush with the sides of the frame. Now I had a guide for a 1.75" hole saw.

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I had to put a 3" drop in the center for driveshaft clearance.

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I bent up the main hoop today.

Remember the old adage "measure twice, cut once"...

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I needed a way to cut two perfectly aligned notches in the bottom of my frame to accept the rear crossmember. If I had the frame laying upside down where I could work on it easily I might have just cut them in with a plasma and a grinder, but there was no way I wanted to do that laying on my back under the truck. It took me some time, but I finally figured out how to do it, and do it accurately, without having hot slag in my armpit.

I clamped a length of 3/8" x .062 tubing from the outside edge of one frame rail, across the bottom of the frame, all the way over to the tube I set through the floor to represent the bottom leg of my main hoop. This allowed me to align the little tube front to back based on the main hoop location. Then I tack welded the tube to the bottom of the frame and cut it approximately flush with the sides of the frame. Now I had a guide for a 1.75" hole saw.

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Great thinking on that one!
 
Still waiting on the housing and diff, but this made my day.


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#racegreen
 
Fab9

Big Late Ford housing ends, 3.25" 4130 tubes, 40 spline Strange aluminum housing with Strange spool. Gun drilled axles. 12" Wilwood cross drilled rotors with aluminum hats and dual 4 piston calipers.

I like building things myself, but this thing looks very well crafted, I'm proud to show it off.
http://www.cachassiworks.com

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