Cam choices.. suggestions

I bought a new mild billet cam from Enterprise Engine. They said it was the same cam Jeff Prince is running. They said it doesn't require a modified valvetrain. I had this cam installed, and then ended up having the motor rebuilt. The motor came back with a stock cam, and my billet one is now for sale. It has less than an hour of use.
 
ya know i find it funny how people say a reground cam is bad, it makes no sence. cummins has stated that the stock cam is 50ish Rockwell tested to the core---that means all the way thru, now this is deffinate on the CR. i dont know on a 2nd gen. if this is so then how on gods green earth will a regrind be a bad choice? and im not talking about a high dollar manufacturer that says these things to make a sale but, where is the proof that it is bad?

and like jim said all cams break, stock, regrind, and even billit, so that is not of consern here. for the record the cam in my truck has bee in not one but three different trucks who ever had it first, brett williams and now mine.

and the cam had no wear on it what so ever, and those who know me know im am pretty picky on parts for my truck. for those that want a proven alternative to the billit cam they should go with a MAXspool cam im very happy with mine and so are about 100 others, from daily driving to the fastest in there class it's being used with good results.

for those that were interested in finding out where they could get them it can be found here www.ngmdiesel.com :thankyou2:
 
The cam had nothing to do with the rebuild.. I popped a head gasket at TS last year, and after that I decided to go with a billet cam and electric water pump. Then after getting that together, I spoke to Jeff and he reccommended lowering the compression to make the motor much more dependable in the long run. I wanted the most dependable setup possible to run in pro street. He's been running the same engine for over 4 years with no troubles, so he built my motor like his. Most everything internal is stock, just with lowered compression. I only need approximately 750hp at the wheels to run around 10.50 (from what I'm told). I had 120 stainless lines on it as well, and he replaced them with the stock lines. The only time on the cam and lines were when we would let the motor warm up to retorque the head studs. There was no actual driving time on the billet cam or lines.
 
Morse said:
The cam had nothing to do with the rebuild.. I popped a head gasket at TS last year, and after that I decided to go with a billet cam and electric water pump. Then after getting that together, I spoke to Jeff and he reccommended lowering the compression to make the motor much more dependable in the long run. I wanted the most dependable setup possible to run in pro street. He's been running the same engine for over 4 years with no troubles, so he built my motor like his. Most everything internal is stock, just with lowered compression. I only need approximately 750hp at the wheels to run around 10.50 (from what I'm told). I had 120 stainless lines on it as well, and he replaced them with the stock lines. The only time on the cam and lines were when we would let the motor warm up to retorque the head studs. There was no actual driving time on the billet cam or lines.
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your truck looks really good, are you running a 24 valve 12 valve or CR?
 
DIESEL POWER said:
ya know i find it funny how people say a reground cam is bad, it makes no sence. cummins has stated that the stock cam is 50ish Rockwell tested to the core---that means all the way thru, now this is deffinate on the CR. i dont know on a 2nd gen. if this is so then how on gods green earth will a regrind be a bad choice? and im not talking about a high dollar manufacturer that says these things to make a sale but, where is the proof that it is bad?

and like jim said all cams break, stock, regrind, and even billit, so that is not of consern here. for the record the cam in my truck has bee in not one but three different trucks who ever had it first, brett williams and now mine.

and the cam had no wear on it what so ever, and those who know me know im am pretty picky on parts for my truck. for those that want a proven alternative to the billit cam they should go with a MAXspool cam im very happy with mine and so are about 100 others, from daily driving to the fastest in there class it's being used with good results.

for those that were interested in finding out where they could get them it can be found here www.ngmdiesel.com :thankyou2:
Click to expand...

I don't have experience to say if one is better than the other, but on the budget I'm stuck with, sticking a regrind in it can't be any worse than re-using my 211k mile cam that came out of it.. $.02
 
Ridemywideglide said:
I don't have experience to say if one is better than the other, but on the budget I'm stuck with, sticking a regrind in it can't be any worse than re-using my 211k mile cam that came out of it.. $.02
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my point exactly. good luck with your new cam
 
What are some good lift/duration numbers that I could have my stocker reground?

My diesel parts supplier is good friend with a person at comp cams, If it is worth the cost I might have my stocker redone.
 
Diesel Power, my truck is a 12 valve. I drove it an hour to the drag strip yesterday to play a little. I blew an intercooler boot and it jumped timing. Rowen here on the forum gave me a boot, but I still couldn't drive it home.. I'll try it again soon..
 
good luck with the regrind , been there and would never do it again.

I bought a regrind from haisleys, made 10 hooks (street class under 4500rpm)
in the season and tore it down this winter to find the cam was junk. all the finish or harding was wore off the lobs.wasted 400$
 
Morse- Pm me what you are asking for your cam. Im am not really looking for onbe but if somethinmg pops up and it is worth it i may have to jump.



Did it make your truck lope?
 
Big lines are something best left to big pulling trucks; the best bet is close to stock size lines up to 850 hp . The engine I built for my last ride has .093 will cover up to 1100 real hp. Any bigger is a waste. These were custom Buddha Power lines stainless steel with 4140 billet ends $550.
buddhapower@windstream.net
 
COMP461 said:
Big lines are something best left to big pulling trucks; the best bet is close to stock size lines up to 850 hp . The engine I built for my last ride has .093 will cover up to 1100 real hp. Any bigger is a waste. These were custom Buddha Power lines stainless steel with 4140 billet ends $550.
buddhapower@windstream.net
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I understand that but that what was told to me once upon a time. That if you run bigger lines but keep the factory holders that it would result in a lope sound.

Lance
 
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