converting 99 24 valve to 12 valve problem

New question.

will the crank sensor on the main pulley sitting below the water pump run my fuel pump so the only reason I would need the destroked kit is to have a working tach
 
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/album.php?albumid=621&pictureid=1084
This sensor is the one I'm calling the crank/engine speed sensor
btween the water pump and main pulley
album.php


If I'm wrong let me know

oh and I don't get the option to just upload a picture link to the post only option is to add a link.
 
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i might of missed it but why go through all the trouble to try and use 12v sensors with a 24v truck? oil pressure was easy on the side of the block in the oil galley. with a black pipe fitting and a m14x1.50 nut we made an adapter for the coolant and put it in the same spot it came off the 24v head. the cam sensor will require the cam gear and an adapter that takes the spot of the TDC pin. IMO its a lot of work and headache to switch ecms, harness's, sensors, and plugs.
 
If you're running a 47RE you will need the crank sensor for it to work right.

When I bought my crank sensor kit from Destroked it was on the website. Since they pulled it off I assumed it wass not available anymore.

The sensor that came with the kit did not work for me. I drilled the hole in the bracket out so that the 24V crank sensor would fit in it good and snug. Also fabbed a little bracket for a little more support.

The '99 didn't use a cam sensor so no need for one in the swap.

Here's the pic of it:

Crank-Sensor-e1318615358747.jpg
 
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Ok, I see Big Pappa has the 47re like me. You did the same switch I'm doing.
Thanks for the reply's.
so I really can't get away with out the crank sensor kit from destroked.
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Chevycummins I have a 99 24 valve truck I'm switching to a 96 12 valve motor so the best way everyone has found to do this is use the truckes wiring and make the truck think it has a 24 valve motor.
 
I'll need to pull a wire from a 5amp fuse in the fuse block under dash to the fuel shut off solenoid relay and another to the starter signal wire.
question: Do I run that wire from the starter to the fuel shut off solenoid or starter to the same 5 amp fuse?
unclear on that.
 
ok i had forgot about the break in there between crank sensors and cam sensors. still though i would think it would be easier to just use the 24v sensors, than try and swapping plugs and what not. thats all i did and it still doesnt know the difference. i am sure if you swap over the sensors to ports on the 12v and add the bracket for the crank sensor you should be alright without having to cut any wires. for the shut off you can just splice the exciter wire into your ignition switch. spliced into the exciter wire for the starter, ground, and the hold wire is to a toggle switch that is hidden
 
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Seems to be a little confusion here. We are talking about running 24V sensors on the 12V engine. You will still need to extend some wiring such as the IAT and ECT sensors. They are in a different location on the 12V. We relocated the EOP sensor because with the engine in and the injector pump on, it was hard to get to. Basically I was lazy.

For the shut-off solenoid, use the relays, wiring and solenoid from the 12V. Connect the "pull-up" relay to the starter wire and the "hold-up" relay to a keyed 12volt source. Mine is connected to one of the fuses in the fuse box under the hood.

I'm also running the 24V APPS. I have heard of some running the TPS from the 12V but I think most of these are on manuals or they're running 47RH's.

My truck is turn-key. Everything works as it should. The only issue I'm having is the very first 1-2 shift after start-up. It doesn't want to happen. Once it does it the first time it's perfect until you turn the truck off and then it will do it again the first time. Nobody's been able to tell me why this happens yet.
 
I kept seeing that he was talking about cutting plugs and using 12v sensors a few posts back. I didn't have to lengthen any of my harness.. All of mine went in similar locations as the 24v. Mine was an industrial 5.9 also which probably had more sensor ports than the pick up version
 
Well the reason I was thinking it was easier to switch plugs is that I have both harnesses and going off searching for npt fittings just seems longer.
I suppose I should check out lowe's.


IAT is the air temp sensor
ECT is the Engine coolant sensor
EOP is the Engine oil pressure sensor
TCM is the transmission control module

what does APPS stand for?
 
U need to make sensor adapters to put the 24v sensors on the 12v motor in the location they would be on the 12v. Im like big papa I've done it pm me if u want some sensor adapters. I've got the stuff to make a few up.
 
pm me if u want some sensor adapters. I've got the stuff to make a few up.

I got mine from odieub.

I've never heard of a TCM. There's an ECM (Engine Control Module) on the 24V and they both have a PCM (Powertrain Control Module).

kleann, you know anybody running the 12V TPS successfully with a 47RE? Tranny and cruise works right? I'm not being sarcastic, I really would like to know. I've been told they're out there but all of them I've talked to are running a manual or a 47RH, or something doesn't work right.
 
Odieub someone found that the m14x1.5 npt adapters work good to fit the 24v sensors to the 12 valve motor.
 
I got mine from odieub.

I've never heard of a TCM. There's an ECM (Engine Control Module) on the 24V and they both have a PCM (Powertrain Control Module).

kleann, you know anybody running the 12V TPS successfully with a 47RE? Tranny and cruise works right? I'm not being sarcastic, I really would like to know. I've been told they're out there but all of them I've talked to are running a manual or a 47RH, or something doesn't work right.

Cruise probably wont work. But yes I have a truck running the 12v throttle/tps setup with a 47re.
 
Is the sensor at the back of the 99 24 valve that is on the head that has what looks like a diode in a tube and is about the same size as the water temp sensor, is this the air temp sensor on the 24 valve?
 
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