custom header

From how I see to build one, I used 2" prices since I have the invoice for some here.

6x 90*
8x 45*

45* 2" $7.20ea

90* long radius $14.12 ea

90* short radius $21.97 ea


142.32 in fittings + $15 t6 flange + $200ish for the head flange...


Seems like I need to ditch this PDI I've got.
 
where are those prices from? ive wanted to have some fun with making one but never got around to looking prices up.

Garrett
 
roachie- are buying the head flange from somewhere or are you having it waterjet or laser cut?
 
RyanB said:
The thicker walled tubing is also going to keep the heat in the pipe, there for keeping the velocity up in the system.
Click to expand...

Ryan, there are a lot of nerds who would argue this point.

Here's how I've heard it (I haven't made up my mind really yet):

"They say" thin-gauge tube (say 16ga) heats very quickly and is so light that very little heat is actually taken out of the gas stream (has low thermal mass). It would also cool very quickly.

"They say" the heavier manifolds absorb a lot more heat from the gas stream before they come up to temp - so in theory they should be less "snappy". However once the manifold is at temp, it's going to hold it there longer than the light version.

The big thing I see missing from "They Say" is the effect of radiation. The heat loss from the glow is significant and in some cases could be far more than people think since it follows a power law (like T to the fourth power). I have never seen any quantification of this effect in the hi-po diesel world but there are SAE papers published on things like this.

So, whatever, I guess that is a non-answer. I've always thought the ideal scenario would be to use thinwall inconel, ceramic coat it, and wrap it. Low thermal mass, heats fast, stays hot as well.

My cheap two bits for today. :bang
 
RyanB said:
roachie- are buying the head flange from somewhere or are you having it waterjet or laser cut?
Click to expand...

Keating cnc's a very nice flange with stubs coming off it to weld on. I'll get a pic up later.
 
nwpadmax said:
Ryan, there are a lot of nerds who would argue this point.

Here's how I've heard it (I haven't made up my mind really yet):

"They say" thin-gauge tube (say 16ga) heats very quickly and is so light that very little heat is actually taken out of the gas stream (has low thermal mass). It would also cool very quickly.

"They say" the heavier manifolds absorb a lot more heat from the gas stream before they come up to temp - so in theory they should be less "snappy". However once the manifold is at temp, it's going to hold it there longer than the light version.

The big thing I see missing from "They Say" is the effect of radiation. The heat loss from the glow is significant and in some cases could be far more than people think since it follows a power law (like T to the fourth power). I have never seen any quantification of this effect in the hi-po diesel world but there are SAE papers published on things like this.

So, whatever, I guess that is a non-answer. I've always thought the ideal scenario would be to use thinwall inconel, ceramic coat it, and wrap it. Low thermal mass, heats fast, stays hot as well.

My cheap two bits for today. :bang
Click to expand...

i think one of the main things with the diesel is that the thin wall just doesnt hold up to the heat and pressure.

Garrett
 
You are gonna need a lot more bends then that, I wish that's all it took but I used almost 30 90's on mine, and I also got a 3 foot straight piece and used up most of that. Also I wouldn't buy any 45's you can just turn a 90 into one easily. The 90's were $7.52 a piece from Mcmaster Carr, and that was stainless that I used.

roachie said:
From how I see to build one, I used 2" prices since I have the invoice for some here.

6x 90*
8x 45*

45* 2" $7.20ea

90* long radius $14.12 ea

90* short radius $21.97 ea


142.32 in fittings + $15 t6 flange + $200ish for the head flange...


Seems like I need to ditch this PDI I've got.
Click to expand...
 
where did you guys get the flanges that bolt to the head to make them?
 
SMOKIN93 said:
You are gonna need a lot more bends then that, I wish that's all it took but I used almost 30 90's on mine, and I also got a 3 foot straight piece and used up most of that. Also I wouldn't buy any 45's you can just turn a 90 into one easily. The 90's were $7.52 a piece from Mcmaster Carr, and that was stainless that I used.
Click to expand...

awesome! i get a huge discount at mcmaster.

Garrett
 
:pop: i would like to see this put on the dyno just to see the gains from it
 
Stole from keating's fb

19041_103016656393311_100000549318460_85278_665769_n.jpg
 
Hey guys, thought i would bring this thread back to life and let you know the results with my header. Overall i would not recomend building one out of thin gauge mild steel as i did. However the problem wasnt cracking, it was the tubing swelling up like a balloon. Eventually it started to tear apart beside the welds and once it started it seemed like i was blowing a new hole in it every pull almost. Version 2 is going to be made out of sch 40 stainless!
 

Attachments

  • pull videos 015small.jpg
    pull videos 015small.jpg
    97.4 KB · Views: 0
SMOKIN93 said:
You are gonna need a lot more bends then that, I wish that's all it took but I used almost 30 90's on mine, and I also got a 3 foot straight piece and used up most of that. Also I wouldn't buy any 45's you can just turn a 90 into one easily. The 90's were $7.52 a piece from Mcmaster Carr, and that was stainless that I used.
Click to expand...

Do you have pics of yours b/c i can't imagine how you used 30 90s plus a 3' straight piece unless you were making an equal length header
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top