Engine break in

Craig_C

Craig_C

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So I did some digging and found some interesting stuff on engine break in, most was old enough to be in the archives by now.

05 Common rail, .020 over marine pistons, all new bearings, used re-grind cam.

So what is everyones preferred methods now days??
 
I did the "run 10-15 minutes without coolant" to seat the rings cut it off immediately and let it cool completely then fill with coolant.


Sent from the command position of my dinosaur.
 
Got Smoke? said:
I did the "run 10-15 minutes without coolant" to seat the rings cut it off immediately and let it cool completely then fill with coolant.


Sent from the command position of my dinosaur.
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I've heard that creates lots of hotspots... I had to break in my Hamilton cam so I started it and held it around 2k for 20 minutes. Never had any blow by to speak of.

YouTube

That's my engine on the second start after the cam break in. All new engine bored .020" over.
 
DDually said:
I've heard that creates lots of hotspots... I had to break in my Hamilton cam so I started it and held it around 2k for 20 minutes. Never had any blow by to speak of.
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I have about 5500 miles on my motor now first thousand were with Amsoil high zinc break-in. It's not driven everyday it's .020 over with studs fire rings PDR street cam Joker Fab head running stock injectors and turbo currently. No blow by but still chasing oil leaks :bang



Sent from the command position of my dinosaur.
 
I'll run up to 10 min with no coolant. After that it is driven around the block conservatively to get up to temp. Check for leaks, tools, ect, Cool down, up to temp again, then drive a few miles like I'm trying to blow it up.
 
Fire it, get it up to temp and make sure there's no leaks. Let it cool. Retorque the head, check the valves, and hook it to a sled :D
 
Got Smoke? said:
I have about 5500 miles on my motor now first thousand were with Amsoil high zinc break-in. It's not driven everyday it's .020 over with studs fire rings PDR street cam Joker Fab head running stock injectors and turbo currently. No blow by but still chasing oil leaks :bang



Sent from the command position of my dinosaur.
Click to expand...

I hear you on the oil leaks. I leak just about every fluid in the pick up. :hehe:
 
BluegrassDiesel said:
Fire it, get it up to temp and make sure there's no leaks. Let it cool. Retorque the head, check the valves, and hook it to a sled :D
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No sleds here!! Not a daily driver, but a street truck that will see dragstrip passes and 4+ hour trips of light towing of atvs/rock buggy.
 
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Sled, trailer, larger tractor, dozer, dumptruck, big damn tree, there is actually little difference.
 
I hear break in oil is good but I have never used it.

I would vary RPM's, drive it pretty much how you would with coolant and everything in it. Downshift as much as you can to get suction so rings will really seat.
Change the oil at 200-500 miles, 1000 miles after, again at 3000 miles, and then you should be good to do whatever with it. The first few changes should have some metalic dusting, but nothing crazy.

^Just my personal experience.
 
Best breakin for rings is work. Worked at a equiptment dealer and the oe wanted tractors hooked to a peice of tillage equiptment asap and worked, with little idle and low load time
 
Use standard oil with a break in additive. No coolant until it gets closer to temp gets added minus the t-stat to avoid hot spots. Vary the throttle for 30 minutes and change it a few hundred RPM every 2 minutes. A throttle depressor is your friend here. Run the engine with a load after this initial break in is best and vary the throttle up and down. If you dont have a load I suggest locking out OD for awhile and going back and forth. At 1000 miles dump the initial oil and put in whatever you like. Ive never once had a return on a single engine rebuild with my method.
 
So what if someone is only putting a new cam and tappets in? Not a complete rebuild. Original rings, seals, ect. Is it just 2000 rpm for 15-20 minutes?
 
DirtyMaxx03 said:
I was always told to break it in how you want it to run. Let er eat
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Pretty much what I was told too. I started mine up and held it at 2000 for awhile then took it to a deserted spot and laid down some rubber at WOT.

Sent from my paperweight
 
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