Full locker on the street

Nice thing about a detroit locker though, it's always predictable. Locked under power, unlocked when off the power.
 
I've been looking for something for my shortbed. It's hard enough to drive in the rain as it is so I'm not wanting to make it worst.
 
I got a factory dana 80 LS adjusted fairly tight and on wet roads it will put you sideways if you put too much power into a corner. On dry roads no chirping but it will lock and put you sideways just takes more boost to get it done.
 
khaoskustoms said:
Nice thing about a detroit locker though, it's always predictable. Locked under power, unlocked when off the power.
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Hahaha that's a good joke. Have you ever owned a vehicle with a Detroit. They will unload, ratchet and scare the phuck out of you. I've had both a Detroit and Yukon dura grip. The dura grip has better street manners. It locked and unlocked with out being noticeable. If it was a trail rig Detroit all the way. I wouldn't DD a vehicle with a Detroit again. I the detroit in the rear of a 4runner on 37's. I had the dura grip in rear of a 04 Z71. It would drift on command but it was predictable as to be expected. I would buy another one. I have always had good service out of Yukon products. IMO their ring and pinions are the only aftermarket gear sets to buy.
 
High Cotton said:
Hahaha that's a good joke. Have you ever owned a vehicle with a Detroit. They will unload, ratchet and scare the phuck out of you. I've had both a Detroit and Yukon dura grip. The dura grip has better street manners. It locked and unlocked with out being noticeable. If it was a trail rig Detroit all the way. I wouldn't DD a vehicle with a Detroit again. I the detroit in the rear of a 4runner on 37's. I had the dura grip in rear of a 04 Z71. It would drift on command but it was predictable as to be expected. I would buy another one. I have always had good service out of Yukon products. IMO their ring and pinions are the only aftermarket gear sets to buy.
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^^^Agree! I will never put another Detroit in. It is very unpredictable and when it unlocks it sounds like the rearend flew apart and the truck jerks around.
 
I had detroits in my jeep and my Chev K30. The K30 would pop coming out of a corner on the pavement, you would slightly feel it.
The jeep would pop and you would find yourself driving in oncoming traffic.
I would imagine a locker would screw up all cornering abilities under power.
 
It's not bad. Tires go a little quicker, and mine would "hop" a little when turning tight. But it's very drivable.
 
I run a Detroit in my 02, and I would in my 05 if they made one for it. The longer the wheel base, and heavier the vehicle, the less harsh the Detroit is. The newer ones are much less harsh then the ones even a few years ago.

As others have said though, tires will wear faster, and there will be some strange noises.

Paul
 
I have yet to see the issue with running a full spool on the street. Other than od tire wear. Assuming you know how to drive they are very very predictable.
 
Rich..you seem to always buy the best...

..so...get an ARB and be done with it...it will be the same as you have now, until you flip a switch, then you will be fully locked.
 
I would look in to an eaton E locker before an ARB. If it's for the truck in his avatar he's has no need for an on board air system. The price becomes absurd when you have to buy the air management system just to use a locker.
 
Torque Monkey said:
Depends on the locker... some are better than other.

I have driven with a couple in a JEEP. Loc-Rites were terrible. The Detroit i had in my FORD 9 inch wasn't too bad. The biggest problem I had was the transition to on the throttle and off in a corner If you are on the throttle the locker will push you out of the turn. When you lt off the throttle it will pull you into the turn. Takes some getting use to. I didn't like it at all in the JEEP. I think it would be a little better with a long wheel base vehicle but I have only had limited slips in the trucks.
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Agreed! I have a Loc-Right in my dually, and a Detroit in my street/strip Vega. The Dually is long and heavy enough that the Loc-Richt is tolerable, but the Vega is pretty predictable.

When I talked to an applications engineer when investigating the Loc-Right, he told me I would probably break axles since I planned to haul and tow heavy with it. That didn't happen until I added a new tighter converter (would blow through the old one past the torque peak). Several weeks ago I was towing to a race (weekend before Topeka), with a BUNCH of weight on the rear axle (about 11,000 lbs). I went to pull out into traffic and had to hammer it pretty hard, and it felt like it broke the axle. Luckily all it did was shear all of the bolts holding the axle shaft to the hub.
 
You know the bolts that hold the axle shaft in on a full floater rearend (like all diesel 3/4 and 1-ton trucks from the factory)? Every damn one of them sheared, and the heads of several shot through the sheet metal center cap and dinged the wheel. In a corner like that, the inside tire ends up taking all of the torque. Since I changed the converter I have hammered it in a corner like that but spun the tires. This time I had too much tongue weight (one race car in the trailer at the very nose, with only a Jr dragster and ATV behind it to balance out). Wish I had taken pictures, but every time I had my hands on it I was covered in gear oil and didn't want to touch my phone.
 
Oh yeah - the remains of some of the bolts were pretty rusted in there, and I managed to break an easy-out off in one of them. I spent several hours trying to get them all out, ended up leaving the one with the easy out until I got it home.
 
Rich, I've been running one in my 98' since 03', I've got about 100k on it with no issues and I would hesitate to do it again.

Jim
 
Michael said:
You know the bolts that hold the axle shaft in on a full floater rearend (like all diesel 3/4 and 1-ton trucks from the factory)? Every damn one of them sheared, and the heads of several shot through the sheet metal center cap and dinged the wheel. In a corner like that, the inside tire ends up taking all of the torque. Since I changed the converter I have hammered it in a corner like that but spun the tires. This time I had too much tongue weight (one race car in the trailer at the very nose, with only a Jr dragster and ATV behind it to balance out). Wish I had taken pictures, but every time I had my hands on it I was covered in gear oil and didn't want to touch my phone.
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hah, I was just making sure we were (and we are) talking about the same bolts. I'm amazed it didnt shear the shaft?
 
I guess they designed it so the bolts would shear before the shaft. Wish I had measured the shaft diameter, I could run some quick calculations to see which one should shear first, but I know we did just that when designing full floater axles for forklifts. Think of it like a fuse! Much cheaper to replace than the big parts...
 
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