God help me, fixing a 1/2 ton Cummins swap cluster&?@$...

biggy238 said:
No. Both can be run by simple circuits.

OD and lockup can be on an RE also, but an RE needs the PCM for gov pressure regulation, hence the (R)egulated (E)lectronically


Tobin, i should have known better, but I thought photography and event coverage were your primary source of income?
Monkey Fist Rage
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That is a guy with Tobin as his last name, my first name it Tobin. I wish I got to go to more events and i can't photograph that good at all!
 
The truck has switches on the dash for the overdrive and the converter lock up.

Can we install an external voltage regulator to control the alternator?




Does anyone have a PCM and wiring harness we can buy?

We are east of Reynolds Rd off of K-Ville at 535 Josh Reynolds Rd. Some help tomorrow evening would be appreciated Tobin...
 
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LOGANSTANFORTH said:
The truck has switches on the dash for the overdrive and the converter lock up.

Can we install an external voltage regulator to control the alternator?




Does anyone have a PCM and wiring harness we can buy?

We are east of Reynolds Rd off of K-Ville at 535 Josh Reynolds Rd. Some help tomorrow evening would be appreciated Tobin...
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I work night shift but if we have time between completion and start up I can swing by. You can probably see the plant from your house, you are pretty close. I get into work at 6pm and leave around 7am.

Tobin
 
Tobin said:
That is a guy with Tobin as his last name, my first name it Tobin. I wish I got to go to more events and i can't photograph that good at all!
Click to expand...

See, I knew it didn't makes sense.

The Big Ten Inch
 
LOGANSTANFORTH said:
T
Can we install an external voltage regulator to control the alternator?
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89 dodge voltage regulator will work. There are a ton of threads on how to do it. IIRC it's $9 at auto parts and the harness is $7-8. The one in the link is more, but Napa hoked me up for ~$9

http://www.partsgeek.com/314ymr3-dodge-d350-voltage-regulator.html?utm_source=pricegrabber&utm_medium=pf&utm_content=mc&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Pricegrabber&fp=pp&utm_term=Dodge+Voltage+Regulator
 
It can bolt anywhere, but it must be grounded. Two wires go to the alt and one is connected to a ignition hot wire.
 
Fuel system is fixed, I went to Hydraulic Hose Supply today and got everything to fix the fuel system correctly. Everything from the draw straw in the tank to the pump is all stainless or red/blue -6 fittings, except the bulkhead fitting. (It was -8) I picked up a 20 foot roll of -6 blue Push-Loc yesterday at Racecar Engineering for the fuel line. The return line we just left what was on there, which was 1/2 inch rubber, we will replace it at a later date.

I used two -4 fittings and a 12 inch braided stainless line for the new AFC line. It fixed several drivability issues.

Bad part is we fried what appears to be an almost new gear reduction starter after starting it a couple times. He figured it out when his dad laid his hand on the battery cable and burned himself from it pulling so many amps, so all new 00 cable and terminals along with a rebuilt starter will fix that...

Gonna order a rebuild kit for the HX55 this week, T3 exhaust gasket for the adapter (already got the T4 gasket), 4k gov kit and 60 pound springs...

Still have to figure out the engine/trans/pcm harness issues, I may just put a complete harness and PCM on it from a diesel and be done with it...
 
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Was the cable issue some thing you inflicted or are the relays for the start circuit wrong?

Monkey Fist Rage
 
biggy238 said:
Was the cable issue some thing you inflicted or are the relays for the start circuit wrong?

Monkey Fist Rage
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No, they are tiny gas engine style cables, nowhere near big enough for the diesel, I've got 00 cable on all my trucks with single batteries and they fire in less than half a crank. You could tell this truck was cranking slow, the grounds are also too long on it as well...

Here are all the pictures I promised, the first ones are of the clusterf%#k of wiring the installer did.

The ones of Austin washing the chassis is because at some point the truck was run with no exhaust on it and everything was covered in a heavy layer of soot, it was flaking off the rear axle it was so thick.

The two pictures are of the new draw straw and pump fitting. The had some crappy fitting epoxied into the top of the tank, as soon as we moved it the thing cracked and came loose. So we pulled it and I got the bulk head fitting and the rest of the stuff and done it as right as possible.

The last three are of the transmission, I'm guessing it is a RE, correct????
 

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It sucks that someone didn't have the pride to fix this truck correctly. The transmission appears to be a 47rh
 
YoungDiesel27 said:
It sucks that someone didn't have the pride to fix this truck correctly. The transmission appears to be a 47rh
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It was an employee and probably an ex-employee from the way the engine builder talked on the phone. I just don't understand why he didn't just buy an extended cab short bed 3/4 ton with a diesel in it, it would of saved a bunch of time and money and it would of already been done right from the factory...
 
Yea I had a truck in with the same situation. V10 conversion gone wrong. Underneath the fuse panel was insane. They had a wire connector on every wire coming out of the fuse box to match the engine harness...none of it worked.

next problem was it wouldnt shift. Scan it, no gov pressure...dropped the pan off the tranny, to find it had a rh valve body with an re tail housing
 
Wow. That looks really nice. I can't believe someone got paid to do that. Hopefully the person doing it now works at Wal-Mart....on the night shift.
 
Did you hook up the heater core yet? Where is the mechanical water temp gauge mounted? I didn't have enough probe lead going from the front of the head like that. There are two other ports on the middle and rear driver's side you can tap into. Middle is the same thread, but rear will need a reducer.

Looks like a nightmare. Good luck!
 
YoungDiesel27 said:
Yea I had a truck in with the same situation. V10 conversion gone wrong. Underneath the fuse panel was insane. They had a wire connector on every wire coming out of the fuse box to match the engine harness...none of it worked.

next problem was it wouldnt shift. Scan it, no gov pressure...dropped the pan off the tranny, to find it had a rh valve body with an re tail housing
Click to expand...

Sounds like this idiot...

4x4dually said:
Wow. That looks really nice. I can't believe someone got paid to do that. Hopefully the person doing it now works at Wal-Mart....on the night shift.
Click to expand...

I don't think he got paid, the truck owner went to jail and I think he got the truck in payment, guy was not happy about selling it...

hydroshok said:
Did you hook up the heater core yet? Where is the mechanical water temp gauge mounted? I didn't have enough probe lead going from the front of the head like that. There are two other ports on the middle and rear driver's side you can tap into. Middle is the same thread, but rear will need a reducer.

Looks like a nightmare. Good luck!
Click to expand...

We haven't hooked up the heater core yet. The gauge is mounted at the top of the cylinder head toward the front if I remember correctly.

Right now the truck is drivable and it shifts fine so we will leave it until we can find someone that will actually sell us a pcm and harness. Everyone says they have one forsale but no one will post a damn price.....
 
Call Jamie 502-639-5202. Tell him Craig with the first gen crew cab sent you. He'll get you fixed up.

I meant the gauge, not the sending unit in the head. When I had my sending unit mounted like that, the gauge barely made it inside the cab.
 
hydroshok said:
Call Jamie 502-639-5202. Tell him Craig with the first gen crew cab sent you. He'll get you fixed up.

I meant the gauge, not the sending unit in the head. When I had my sending unit mounted like that, the gauge barely made it inside the cab.
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Gauge is mounted on the lower left hand side of the dash by the hood latch. The truck in the thread is mine btw, I traded a broke pos powerstroke for it
 
I just completed a 24v Ppump swap in a 97 half ton this past weekend and have been driving it around. Im not sure if I can help with the guage wiring though. I used an aftermarket tach, oil press, and water temp. I also retained the factory fuse boxes in both locations (dash and driver fender). Everything in my truck still works as it did with the gas motor (aside from above stated guages).

Also a 80s Ford external regulator for the alternator will work (maybe the same as the dodge unit from NAPA). There are two studs that stick out of the driver foot well area in the engine bay that are the exact width of the mounting holes of the regulator. I put mine there and ran the field and 12v wires across the back of the core support.


Good luck with it. My truck is much much faster after shedding the weight from the 1t ECLB dually. Should be fun to drive.
 
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