HE351cw on to a 12V in progress....

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DieselPower359

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Well,it really peaked my curiosity when Big Blue24 put one on his '99 24V so I thought it would be neat to try one on a 12V. So I'm finally in the process of putting a HE351cw on my '94 12V Chevy conversion.

Big Blue24, Is your oil feed and return for the turbo perfectly straight up and down? When I try to clock the housing to get the lines to be perfectly vertical, the rod for the wastegate hit the brackets on the compressor for which the wastegate head bolts to. Would it be best to modify the arm thats currently on the waste gate or what it be "ok" just to fab a bracket and put a J-hook with a spring on it for an adjustable home-made wastegate. I know it won't be as efficient as the stock unit but will it hurt anything?

Also, If I go with the home-made wastegate, would I be able to plumb the lines back into the stock hose that feeds the wastegate head back into the AFC? I would like to keep the AFC stock instead of gutting it but I guess gutting it is also an option.

The ID of the flange on the manifold of the 12V is also slightly smaller than the flange on that of the HE351, so some dremel work can be done there for a better transition.

Also the studs on the flange of the turbo are larger than on the 12V manifold, in diameter and length. You have a couple choices there.

The long way, but maybe the best, will be to fab a little spacer for the flanges to bolt together, that way you can fab it work for the oil feed and return to work as well as keep the stock wastegate setup. If I do that, can I just drill and tap for a fitting and line to go to my AFC housing?
Maybe I'll try to whip something up tomorrow for a spacer.

Now, I realize that you can just buy a later manifold and have this turbo bolt right up, but I'm trying to do this swap with just what I have minus the spacer if I decide to fab one up.

Also, there was a link here to a place that sold stock exhaust elbows and clamps, can't find it now, any help?

Pics can be taken for anyone interested.

Some contradicting thoughts might be in here, as I'm typing I continue to think of different things hahaha, so take it as you will...This has been long enough for now.
 
let us know how everything else works out, I'm thinking about doing this on my 02
 
slap some pictures of it up here. i'd like to know whats involved in it.
 
oil feed and drain dont' have to be exactly vertical. as close as you can get will be fine. I used to work on some engines that were every bit of 10* if not closer to 15* off vertical on the turbo center sections, and they were fine
 
Thanks Forrest, I wasn't sure if there was an acceptable tolerance on that or not, sure makes thing easy though. I'll get some pics up today, it's definitely easier doing this swap with the engine out of the truck :)
 
Well, there's a few pics. It will be a while before I actually get to test it all out, I have to wait for my trans. parts to get in and installed. But, there it is wasn't hard at all really, especially when it's all out in the open. I really can't wait 'till I get to try this thing out in the truck, should be fun..

The top 2 holes on the 12V manifold had to be drilled out to accept the larger diameter studs that were on the HE351's flange, the stock studs on the bottom of the 12V manifold are not long enough for the HE351 since the turbo has a thicker flange than the old WH1C.

I put that homemade spring wastegate on, it is a really stiff spring, I'm not sure of the exact spring rate but it was just as hard to contract as it was pulling the rod on the stock wastegate...

The boost line going to the AFC was as easy as bending the line by hand a little bit and clamping it on the fitting that the old stock wastegate got it's pressure from.

By using the spring wastegate, you are able to clock the housing as far as you need for the oil lines to be vertical, I tried leaving the stock wastegate on and clocking it as much as I could but it was at least 15-20 degrees off and I just wasn't really comfortable with that, so I decided to take it off.
 

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I got my oil drain and feed perfectly vertical. There are three small dowel pins that prevent you from clocking the exhaust turbine housing. You have to remove the housing, then using a set a ordinary pliers, remove the small dowel pins. Once you do that, you can loosely reassemble and re clock the turbine housing and and the compressor housing at the same time. This allows you to turn the center section any direction you want. I see you already rigged up a spring, but reclocking is pretty much impossible without removing those pins and very, very, easy once they are removed and you have a little WD-40 on the mating surfaces so the exhaust housing can turn on the center section.

Oh, did you see that post by Robertp, he made 555 RWHP #2 only on his 05' common rail with the HE351cw. This turbo is impressive!!! Good thing I picked up an extra one a few days ago.
 
Sorry to hear about the manifold difficulties, apparently the WH1C manifold is different than the stock manifold on my 99'. I didn't have to enlarge holes, just switch out two longer studs on HE with two shorter studs from my HX.

By the way, what number is on your compressor housing? The HE351cw on my truck has holset 2 on the compressor housing. The HE351cw that I picked up a few days ago has a holset 3 on the comp housing. I measured the compressor housing bore and came up with 60.5-61mm on the Holset 3. I haven't checked the turbine wheel yet to see what it mics to. Wonder if there is any difference between the 1,2, and 3's.
 
I just wonder if a HTT 60mm compressor on an HX35 would flow about the same as this turbo swap? Seems like they should be real close in flow with the same size comp. wheel.

Eric
 
wheel diameter doesn't mean much... which would you rather have a 5.9 dodge gas engine or a 5.9 Cummins engine? they're both 5.9, right?
 
correct... it's just a measurement... if you're talking about the same generation and family of turbos, that's one thing... you can generalize by talking inducer diameter

but you're comparing a 15yr old compressor wheel design to a 4yr old compressor wheel design... different blade count, different major diameter, different blade pitch, etc. etc. etc.
 
My holset 2 supposedly came off an 05', the holset 3 I just picked up supposedly came off an 05' as well. I do know that the trend is higher holset numbers with newer trucks, just don't know if there are any set rules on what build date correlates to what holset number.



And Forrest is right about the newer technology vs older technology compressor.

One major difference between a hybrid 60 Hx40 wheel and a He351 60mm wheel is the major diameter=exducer. The hybrid 60 has an 83mm major diameter, the He351 has an 88mm major diameter. If all else was equal between these two turbos, the 88mm will allow the HE to push air more efficiently at higher pressure ratios. Larger exducer combined with new blade technology IMO, is why many guys make peak power on these turbos at 45-50 psi range.
 
any predictions as to what kind of HP you will be able to make with that turbo?
 
Smokem said:
The compressor wheel makes a difference, as does the electronic wastegate and comressor cover. Chris has an HE351 with an HX35 compressor cover and a 15° clipped turbine, I am curious to hear how that worked.
Click to expand...

I'm still working on getting it installed, Still need a flange for the downpipe, and a little time.

The truck is running great otherwise, but I think a little more charger will make it really GREAT. It's my heavy tow rig...a couple time this ast week we were grossing 35K+:D EGT's never go over 1100* on a hard pull in valet now, maybe I can turn that off with the new charger:hehe:

Chris
 
Did you machine the HX 35 cover so the larger HE compressor would fit? Did you clip the turbine wheel to let it flow better on the top end?

I bet a hot 12valve could push 530HP with a HE351cw.
 
Why not just go with a 62/14?? If price is your concern, you can find a used HTT or II for a reasonable price, and then you have no hassel.
 
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