He351ve 24valve retrofit

[dslhtrdr]

Thought I'd start a thread about my he351ve swap on my girlfriends 24valve. These are the most recent pictures.

I've been reading a few threads on here about guys doing this so I think I've got it mostly figured out. I will be drilling, tapping, then machining the exhaust flange to bolt up to the stock T3 manifold. Stock oil feed will fit and have heard that the oil drain does bolt up, but if not I will either cut it in half and add some rubber hose or get a flexible oil drain line. I have also learned that an hx40 dp will fit the exhaust housing outlet. It's not a perfect fit, but will seal up and clamp together. I'm praying that the afe intake already on the truck will fit. If not, I'll throw the stock intake from my 12v on it for awhile until I fab up a new intake pipe. And finally, I will be actuating the turbo with a spring like this: http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85518

I've already started taking apart the vgt. I bought it for $50 from a local dealership tech that pulled it off under warranty. The electronics failed, so they went ahead and replaced the whole turbo. For some reason I'm having some trouble separating the exhaust housing from the center section. The v band clamp is completely loose, and have sprayed wd40 and some penetrating lube to loosen it up, and still won't come apart. I tapped on it with a rubber mallet, and stopped there so I didn't damage it. The arm for the actuator moves pretty freely. Do I just need to really pry on it to get it apart? I'd hate to damage it since it's pretty good condition, very little shaft play.

Anyones input and constructive criticism is welcome.

 

[thebullet83]

oh, you'll have to knock the piss out of it. after you get it off once and clean it good, it'll go back together and apart very easily. at least until you fire it up and run it.

you have to kind of careful, but the vanes are housed in a moving plate so there is some foregiveness in it.

best of luck man!

 

[dslhtrdr]

Thanks dude, I was thinking I just had to man handle it more than I was. Practically everywhere I read guys are taking these apart and cleaning the heck out of them, so I figured I might as well do the same.

I'll hit it harder next time!

How do you like the vgt on yours? I'll be adding some 150hp nozzles from ddp down the road to get her truck moving a little better. The comp box helps, but I want more out of it...

 

[bwdt]

Just found this out today on CF, Htt makes comp wheels and housings that you can bolt on that are pre-balanced in 62 and 64 for these turbos. I will contact them tomorrow to find out more.

 

[dslhtrdr]

I've read that II had made a 64mm or 66mm wheel for them. Thought that htt has them too but wasn't sure. Let us know what you find out!

 

[wildman6bt]

I got one too and I had to hit with a mallet it is stubborn and same goes for the compressor side to. I'm putting mine on my 12v. I was gonna run a wastegate actuator but the studs spot weld broke so its junk. Now I'm gonna use a air cylinder I think. O does anybody now what the v bands on the turbo are suppose to be torque to.

 

[thebullet83]

I got one too and I had to hit with a mallet it is stubborn and same goes for the compressor side to. I'm putting mine on my 12v. I was gonna run a wastegate actuator but the studs spot weld broke so its junk. Now I'm gonna use a air cylinder I think. O does anybody now what the v bands on the turbo are suppose to be torque to.

i torqued my comp housing to 75in/lbs and ex housing to 106 in/lbs

now, i will say, that i didn't find specifics on the he351ve. but those torque values are fore a similar sized turbo frame.



i'm happy with the upgrade. i didn't use springs or actuators though. it spools instantly between gears, which the stocker never did. i'll make a charge pipe this weekend to fix the boost leak i found this morning.

 

[dslhtrdr]

Had a thought: to all those that have used springs, does the tension matter all that much? I had one picked out at the shop, but is moderately difficult to uncompress with my bare hands. How much tension should they have?

 

[wildman6bt]

i torqued my comp housing to 75in/lbs and ex housing to 106 in/lbs

now, i will say, that i didn't find specifics on the he351ve. but those torque values are fore a similar sized turbo frame.



i'm happy with the upgrade. i didn't use springs or actuators though. it spools instantly between gears, which the stocker never did. i'll make a charge pipe this weekend to fix the boost leak i found this morning.

Thanks man I was just wondering on that.

 

[Street sleeper]

I'm not against fab work but I used the 6.7 exhaust manifold and down pipe and made the install a lot easier. I also knocked out the other turbo drain port in the block and sealed up the factory used spot. Both stock supply and drain oil lines work, just have to cut down the drain tube.

 

[VMacKenzie]

I'd agree this is the easier route for sure if you have a manual truck. Auto trucks you'd have to deal with the trans heat exchanger mounted on the side of the engine so keeping the stock manifold and fabbing to it or using an adapter like I did should be the easier setup to do.

 

[dslhtrdr]

I'd agree this is the easier route for sure if you have a manual truck. Auto trucks you'd have to deal with the trans heat exchanger mounted on the side of the engine so keeping the stock manifold and fabbing to it or using an adapter like I did should be the easier setup to do.

I didn't even think about having to remove/relocate the heat exchanger when using the 6.7l manifold. Her truck is an auto. I just deleted it when I put the twins on my truck.

 

[dslhtrdr]

oh, you'll have to knock the piss out of it. after you get it off once and clean it good, it'll go back together and apart very easily. at least until you fire it up and run it.

you have to kind of careful, but the vanes are housed in a moving plate so there is some foregiveness in it.

best of luck man!

Well, I knocked the piss out of it. I had to clamp it down to a stool and beat on it quite a few times. At the very end my gf whacked on it while i pulled up to not damage the exhaust wheel and the sliding collar. It finally came off unscathed. I'm going to try to get the flange machined this weekend and start ordering parts to get 'er on the truck.

 

[YOUNG GUNS15]

Interested in the upgraded compressor for these. That would be an interesting turbo with a 66mm lol

 

[dslhtrdr]

I bet it would be the fastest spooling 66mm on the street! Might be a good upgrade over that super 40 there Spence...oke:

 

[wildman6bt]

My thinking is that what's the point in a bigger compressor wheel if you still have a 60mm exducer. You can get the air in but you won't get the exhaust out. So that means higher drive pressure and possibly a broken shaft imo. Now that's my opinion so don't go and sick the dogs on me.

 

[YOUNG GUNS15]

I bet it would be the fastest spooling 66mm on the street! Might be a good upgrade over that super 40 there Spence...oke:

I cant really imagine much faster spoolup than what i have right now, this H2 camshaft makes this super 40 with the 16cm ex housing light QUICK.


wildman: Thats why the vanes can open it up to what? 20cm or something? If you are pushing it that hard maybe an external gate on top of everything.

 

[dslhtrdr]

My thinking is that what's the point in a bigger compressor wheel if you still have a 60mm exducer. You can get the air in but you won't get the exhaust out. So that means higher drive pressure and possibly a broken shaft imo. Now that's my opinion so don't go and sick the dogs on me.

I think I read in another he351ve thread on here that II (I think) had a 64mm wheel in the ve on a 6.7l testing truck that was making something like 700hp. I'll have to look into that more to get real legitimate info, so don't quote me on that.

I guess that if over spooling and snapping the shaft becomes a problem with these then the he451ve or bigger would be a better choice for more airflow while still having the variable geometry.

I cant really imagine much faster spoolup than what i have right now, this H2 camshaft makes this super 40 with the 16cm ex housing light QUICK.


wildman: Thats why the vanes can open it up to what? 20cm or something? If you are pushing it that hard maybe an external gate on top of everything.

I thought you were looking for more than the super 40? You gonna build a set of twins for your truck or what?:ft:

 

[YOUNG GUNS15]

I think I read in another he351ve thread on here that II (I think) had a 64mm wheel in the ve on a 6.7l testing truck that was making something like 700hp. I'll have to look into that more to get real legitimate info, so don't quote me on that.

I guess that if over spooling and snapping the shaft becomes a problem with these then the he451ve or bigger would be a better choice for more airflow while still having the variable geometry.



I thought you were looking for more than the super 40? You gonna build a set of twins for your truck or what?:ft:

Yah im always looking for more! Im stuck on twinning my truck with the super 40 or going to a larger-ish single. We will see when i get the transmission worked out though!

 

[dslhtrdr]

Looks like I won't be machining the flange this weekend. The guy helping me is out of town this weekend, so next weekend it is.

I'm starting to second guess my choice for the springs I was going to use. I don't doubt that the drive pressure will still be able to open it up, but I think that once I let off the throttle, the spring will snap the arm shut so fast that it will make the turbo bark really bad. If I get a chance I'll go looking for some suitable replacements this weekend.

Also had a thought: A small shock absorber, much like those used to hold up lift gates, trunks and hoods on newer model cars would be a good way to slow down the arm return on hard throttle releases, thus reducing turbo bark.

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