Horrible sound!!!

Yes, on average i rebuild one of those type of shafts a week, and i still think they suck. Most of the shops in a 50-60 mile radius send them to the shop i work at.

Well I crawled around under my truck a little today and checked all the ujoints. Everuthing seemed really tight and nothing out of place or look strange. BTW it only has a double carden joint for the front drive shaft and its at the tcase. When I turned the front shaft by hand both the front axleshafts turned at the ends the driver side more than the pass side but that seems right since there is no locker in it. the axle shaft joints seemed fine too. Its really hard telling though when everything is in tact. Probably the first thing i do will be take the drive shaft off and check it over really good for slop. Is there anything particularly I should be looking for?

Thanks again for all the help
 
I got the truck up on jack stands today and pulled both the front wheels off and pulled the diff cover. Everything seems to be fine. The fluid seemed to be full and didn't smell burnt and no metal shavings just a little dirty but the truck has about 80k on it and its probably never been changed. I messed with the lock outs and they both work like they should. I can turn both hubs freely and nothing out of the ordinary. When I lock the hubs and turn them both axle shafts turn along with the drive shaft. I can turn the driveshaft and everything turns freely. Nothing binding up or turning hard. The u-joints on the front drive shaft all look good and don't have any slop. The only slop I found out of everything was the flange from the t-case. It doesn't have much slop but enough to wiggle it and get an occasional knock out of it, should this be stiff and rigid or should it have some room to wiggle? Any ideas on what else I could look for?
Thanks guys
 
pretty sure it should be tight
Thats what I was thinking too. I'm not too familiar with a t-case. I assume there is a bearing in there that supports the shaft and flange where it comes out of the case. If the bearing were bad it would probably have some slop in it and it would probably occasionally make a noise I would think. Does this seem right or am I way out of line?
There should be no play in any joint, if there is it is bad

There is no play in any joints. All of the u-joints are tight just like they should be. The play Is where the shaft with the flange (that the drive shaft bolts to)comes out of the t-case. It has some wiggle room in it.

I'm determined to find this thing lol. Thanks guys
 
Have you checked the dust shields on the brakes for rocks? Dunno if it's got discs all the way around those trucks, but even a pebble will make them shriek like a banshee if it gets in the right spot.
 
Have you checked the dust shields on the brakes for rocks? Dunno if it's got discs all the way around those trucks, but even a pebble will make them shriek like a banshee if it gets in the right spot.

Its got discs all the way around. I never thought about that. I'm gonna check them over really good. I've already been through almost the whole front end and everything seems good. Brakes tomorrow.
 
Did you completely remove the front driveshaft and work the cardan joint around to see how it feels?

A very minimal amount of end play in the T-case out put would be acceptable. If your t-case is full of fluid and the seal at the output in question is not looking then your probably "OK" there.
 
shouldn't be any wiggle room

Did you completely remove the front driveshaft and work the cardan joint around to see how it feels?

A very minimal amount of end play in the T-case out put would be acceptable. If your t-case is full of fluid and the seal at the output in question is not looking then your probably "OK" there.

The t-case is full of fluid. I just flushed it about a month ago or so in search of some shavings or something but found nothing. It doesn't leak any fluid at all so I would say the seal is fine but i have been wrong before.

I did drop the drive shaft and worked all the joints around and everything is smoothe.

Its really hard finding the issue since it doesn't do it constantly or even very often at all but when it does grace me with its present it is extremely noticeable. The t-case is a 273 and my 99 is the same. I thought about dropping both of them to take some measurements and see if they are interchangable. If they are I may try swapping them and see if it goes away. That is last on the list considering I just got my 99 back together again.
Does anybody know if the t-case from a 99 6speed and a 04 6speed are the same? shaft and housing wise? they are both ESOF
 
All the 273's are the same just make sure they are from the same trans or you will need to change inputs.
 
Thats what I figured. Ford changed their 6speed trans i think in like 2003, did the tail housing and output shaft change does anybody know? They are still both zf6 trans but the one is the newer style
 
It really sounds like the stub shafts in the front axle.. If they have been worn due to that little needle bearing putting in a new hub assembly will not fix it. You posted that your hubs are autos in auto/unlock. You need to lock them in manually at the hub and drive it around..if it goes away your looking at new stub shafts which are from the u joint out.

That inner needle bearing actually has a maintenance schedule that they almost never see and if they get bad enough to make that hideous noise they likely have already taken out that shaft. When its bad it wont look destroyed and all you will see is fine chatter marks.

The main reason I say you should revisit this is the bump scenario..happens every time.
 
I'm gonna check that out. Hopefully I can get around to it on Friday. What is the maintenance schedule for the needle bearing? The truck has hardly 80k on it. The noise only comes from the driver side too. I have driven it the last few days with the hubs locked just to see if anything happens and so far I haven't heard any noise at all.
 
It really sounds like the stub shafts in the front axle.. If they have been worn due to that little needle bearing putting in a new hub assembly will not fix it. You posted that your hubs are autos in auto/unlock. You need to lock them in manually at the hub and drive it around..if it goes away your looking at new stub shafts which are from the u joint out.

That inner needle bearing actually has a maintenance schedule that they almost never see and if they get bad enough to make that hideous noise they likely have already taken out that shaft. When its bad it wont look destroyed and all you will see is fine chatter marks.

The main reason I say you should revisit this is the bump scenario..happens every time.


What needle bearing are you talking about? The super Dutes have Hub assemblies for wheel bearings..... I believe only the older style 60s with the spindles and cone and race style bearings have the little needle bearing your talking about. Although the on and off noise would be consistent with that little guy being bad, but i didnt think the superduties had that set up?
 
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