Hydro locked or starter?

SUSTAINED BUDDY! Say like 6 miles up a mountain at 65mph! pulling 18k! Always waited for the pop or boom! I'll be interested to see the piston tops!
 
Fluids drained pressure washed and starting the pull tomorrow! Anybody have a useable 6.7 short block?
 
Last edited:
OK I got the valve cover off and found a mess of oil and water coating everything. Not a shake but black oil on top of water. Maybe caught it before it mixed!? So not only did water get into the cylinder it also was in the engine. Must be a hell of a gasket failure to be everywhere! Hopefully nothing is cracked BUT if there is a chance of something hard breaking what would it be?
 
Interested in seeing what the internals look like.

So you're just doing an engine swap with an engine you already have built?
 
In a common rail if you were running high cylinder pressures (lots of timing, high power and low rpm, etc), then look for a cracked cylinder. A word of caution, if you were running anti-freeze, and it circulated through the oiling system, give careful consideration to re-using any of those parts. As you have already seen oil and antifreeze do not mix. The antifreeze will destroy bearings. Even if you are very careful when you clean cast parts, once they get them hot again the antifreeze will come out of the pores in the metal.

Not trying to scare you, just be careful.

Paul
 
Oh yeah this motor will be a total tear down and rebuild but I will check the cylinders! Can you actually see a cracked Cylinder? I guess that cylinder will be very clean!
 
Depends on how bad the crack is. Some times not visible to the naked eye. Only pushes during the power stroke with heat and pressure of combustion.
 
But if it's pin holes from cavitation. You won't see them at all.

These are liners I pulled out of a Series60 for that exact problem. Unfortunately you don't have liners. So you'll never see the backside cavitation damage.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1422344078.421313.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1422344094.622334.jpg
 
Usually you can pull the oil pan and pressurize the cylinders to find that. I have never seen a parent bore block with cavitation holes. Not impossible, but the harmonics on sleeves increase cavitation.
 
Was re-reading this. That should have said pressurize the cooling system. Sometimes you have to turn the crank to get the affected cylinders piston up above the pore.
 
Well I got the old motor pulled apart and the pistons were fine! The head not so good!
So in conclusion the motor can run 1400 for long periods BUT the head pays the price!
It was cracked so bad coolant was leaking into the cylinders.
 
dangerous06 said:
Well I got the old motor pulled apart and the pistons were fine! The head not so good!
So in conclusion the motor can run 1400 for long periods BUT the head pays the price!
It was cracked so bad coolant was leaking into the cylinders.
Click to expand...

Ouch. Although, I'd much rather swap a head than a bottom end!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top