I change more crap....

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Ezekiel 25:17
Joined
Apr 21, 2006
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I bet I've had 6-8 different subs in this truck trying to find "the one". After going through everything under the sun I wound up with a JL 10W6v2 which was awesome in the upper ranges but just didn't dig deep enough for me. So...I went to a 10W7 which digs deep as hell but doesn't sound right up high so I was still unhappy....which leads us to the next driver to audition. From what people tell me this will be the best of both worlds....we'll see.

Ordered this yesterday:
12W6v2-D4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W6v2 - JL Audio
 
Crew cab right now...about to be cut down to a single cab.
 
That will be sweet. Same wheels and stance stay the same as your avatar? The only down side is it's going to change how much air space you have, and your sub will sound completely different.
 
Have you tried DD's (digital drive). Had a friend with a couple 8's that out hit a pair of JL 12s. I was amazed that an 8" woofer could make the sounds those *****es made.
 
That will be sweet. Same wheels and stance stay the same as your avatar? The only down side is it's going to change how much air space you have, and your sub will sound completely different.
Actually no...those wheels are long gone and I'm lowering it more. My sub enclosure is my center console...nothing will change.

Have you tried DD's (digital drive). Had a friend with a couple 8's that out hit a pair of JL 12s. I was amazed that an 8" woofer could make the sounds those *****es made.
I'm after more of a SQ set-up...not booming bass. If I wanted that I'd add another W7 like I already have. I've already spent a hideous amount of money on this stereo crap...no point in stopping now.
I have the W7 in the truck now and a 10W6 sitting at home from before the W7. I've wasted more on stereo crap than most people spend modding their whole trucks. LOL
I came painfully close to buying an Audison TH10 Basso off of another website...a guy was selling one for 900 bucks and that's cheap. Retail is closer to 1500.

There's another staff member here that's deeper into it than I am. :eek:


Oh yea...DD is Digital Design.
 
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Actually no...those wheels are long gone and I'm lowering it more. My sub enclosure is my center console...nothing will change.




There's another staff member here that's deeper into it than I am. :eek:

Just because I have two new in the box PAR225s doesn't mean I have a problem.

Or an Altec Lansing ALC20. With the stupidly rare remote control.

Or....oh never mind. I have a problem. LOL
 
idk why, but ive never been a fan of 10's. i bet the 12 will sound good.

i like to be beatin down the block, knockin pictures of the wall.
 
Just because I have two new in the box PAR225s doesn't mean I have a problem.

Or an Altec Lansing ALC20. With the stupidly rare remote control.

Or....oh never mind. I have a problem. LOL

I'm about to start sucking up all the old school Linear Power stuff on DIYMA like a vacuum cleaner. There's some awesome stuff showing up the last week or so.

And the fact that you knew I was talking about you should tell ya something. LOL
 
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Will it not sound different putting it in a smaller cab? You are far deeper than I was. I moved a pair of those old aluminum eclipse 12's and eclipse 6213 from a 4runner to an ext cab truck. Same box just in a different vehicle. Clarity was about the same but the volume seemed to be a good be less.
 
The larger the driver, the more distance you want between you and it. Soundwave needs the distance to form to be properly heard. It's been a long time, but I recall something like 10' for a 15" and 8' for 12".

How the driver is faced makes a huge difference too. Simply changing it's orientation in a vehicle can double (in some cases) what the perceived volume is.
 
Smaller vehicles tend to have more cabin gain also from what I've been reading.
I'm thinking small sealed enclosure with lots of power, crossed at 63hz, 24db slope "should" do what I want it to do. Cabin gain could be as much as 12db in the lower notes <40hz but the steep slope should let it blend with the midbasses without too much overlap...decay...whatever it's called.
I've been reading like crazy and there's some nutty rules to follow with this crap.
Midbass I'm gonna try 63-400 hz, 12db slope so they'll roll over into the midranges.
It's all a guess I guess until its actually in the smaller cab.
 
Ordered this yesterday:
12W6v2-D4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W6v2 - JL Audio

That's exact sub I have in the '06. I have it downfiring, in a sealed "hot box" from ebay that I had him make slightly larger to accomodate this big 12". I'm pleased with the sound, but I'm not as discerning or experienced as you. I know it sounds a world better than the JL Audio Stealthbox with 10W3v2-D2 sub that I had under the rear seat.

--Eric
 
I bet I've had 6-8 different subs in this truck trying to find "the one". After going through everything under the sun I wound up with a JL 10W6v2 which was awesome in the upper ranges but just didn't dig deep enough for me. So...I went to a 10W7 which digs deep as hell but doesn't sound right up high so I was still unhappy....which leads us to the next driver to audition. From what people tell me this will be the best of both worlds....we'll see.

Ordered this yesterday:
12W6v2-D4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W6v2 - JL Audio

One of those 12's in 1.25 is going to punch hard, like through your chest.....love JL's!

Jim
 
I have ran jl audio subs for over 15+ years...ive had both the 10w7 and have 10w6 currently in my car. I sat in a friends car who is a top installer and he switched his subs to RE Audio...best sub i have ever heard. My new set up will include RE Audio subs.

I figured with you switching to Focal youd step it up with some newer technolgy Richard....
 
The 12W6 is still considered one I the best SQ subs one the market...and I've always been a fan. Might as well give it a shot.
 
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