I need facts about built 47 and resolved myths

mattpopp

mattpopp

New member
I have a reg cab 95 4wd that soon will get my attention and money. The ultimate goal is a pure 1/4 mile truck that wont be street driven. If all goes accordingly I will be making the first purchase and its gonna be the trans. Now I may be beating a dead horse here and searching for this info has lead to pages of the same questions that I still have. By no means is this going to be a over night build. Plan to be at the track during the summer to learn this truck and.set it up for the 2013 season

As far as builders I am open but the shop that I use is a ATS dealer and has a great relationship with them. So there is the push to use.them. they have also treated me well with their 68 that I have in my 6.7. So give me pros and cons with ATS, Goerend, Garmon, Revmax, and so on. How have they taken care of their customers that use the trannys for soley race.

For the sake.of the conversation there is no goals in power, think pro street 10's and dreaming of 9's.

To get to the point what is the smartest build.to handle power? It will have the billet direct drum. All three shafts billet? Only input and output? Only input and intermediate billet? Should I be thinking about a stand alone pcs setup?

What else should I be thinking about in this trans? Is the oversized input that garmon has worth it? Should I stand clear of sonnex shafts?

I am trying to put thought into this so I do it right the first time.

Don't mind the punctuations as I am.using a kindle and.if.you have one.you would understand, they suck.

I don't always post to the forum but when I do, I prefer a Kindle Fire
 
Billet shafts for sure Darren Morrison gets my vote but location has lot to do with it

Fat fingered from my dumb phone using tapatalk
 
I got a Precision Industries Billet input for mine sitting here, about 250 cheaper then a lot of them on the market. It will be interesting to see how it holds up or twists. Ive seen a few people mention that the billet intermediate is too ridged of a shaft and needs some give to it in a sense. Who knows that may be just hype or who knows.
 
I'm strong considering an omega shaft and converter for mine. Similar build. Also their th400 output using a 4wd case and seal for 2wd. Possible new stock intermediate shaft.
 
joefarmer said:
Thanks. I'd probably recommend heading over and talking with HotRodDiesels then.
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On cf he said he is in good with drv but mike at hot rod or Chris at relentless would be good options also.
IMO with how a pro street truck hooks full billet shafts and possibly a bigshaft kit if you want to be safe for a season or two.
 
I recommend you either buy an extremely well-built tranny through a local builder such as HRD, or learn to build it yourself. There is a steep learning curve when you build-it yourself, but at least there is no-one to blame but yourself when things break.

Transmission breakage is expensive, especially when you have to pay someone else to build it and install it time and time again. If you spend big $$$ with a good local builder that stands behind their work, your expenses should be lower in the long run.

I've had the tranny in & out 4 times in my POS 12 second race truck. If I paid someone to do the work, I'd be out much more $$$ than I've spent on the whole truck thus far. Part of the fun of racing is tearing down failed parts to see what broke and why!
 
Big Blue,
What you are saying is the most practical idea by far. Learn to build it yourself. Save the money and invest it else where. Just not sure I want to go that route, could cost me more if I am not careful. But learning comes with mistakes.

Yep, located in Houston. I have a pretty good relationship with Chris at DRV. He is my go to guy that i like to annoy with broke 6.7 stuff. But he does not build his own transmissions. He is also who I got the 12v from.

Doesn't Hamilton Diesel build transmissions? Anybody running one of his?

A little voice keeps telling me Goerend, but going Purple will be the easiest for me.

People have said stand clear of.purple but why? What is the problem that you have encountered. I had the stock input break a few months after my ATS 68 went in, rebuilt no issue. Then had the solenoid pack fail killing a clutch pack, rebuilt with no issue. Now I cant get the tranny to fail as I was going to put in a 47 if it failed again.


Has anybody toyed with a 4spd B&J transmission. I assume the.cost of those is the reason that they are not common.

I don't always post to the forum but when I do, I prefer a Kindle Fire
 
Don't waste money on purple-painted stock parts.

Mike @ Hotrod knows a decent number of tricks to get a transmission to last in a pro-type situation.

With a B&J/Lenco/Danco you're looking at ~14-18k before it goes down the track.
 
Big Blue24 said:
I recommend you either buy an extremely well-built tranny through a local builder . . . . . . , or learn to build it yourself. There is a steep learning curve when you build-it yourself, but at least there is no-one to blame but yourself when things break.

Transmission breakage is expensive, especially when you have to pay someone else to build it and install it time and time again. If you spend big $$$ with a good local builder that stands behind their work, your expenses should be lower in the long run.

I've had the tranny in & out 4 times in my POS 12 second race truck. If I paid someone to do the work, I'd be out much more $$$ than I've spent on the whole truck thus far. Part of the fun of racing is tearing down failed parts to see what broke and why!
Click to expand...

Been there, done that.

If you're into doing stupid-boosted launches with a tight converter, go ahead and save yourself the down-time and go all billet/alloy.

Building one isn't too bad if you have a couple of odd tools and can RTFM.
 
you have brought your truck to Chris at Relentless for years, and when you get a truck that has a 47 to be built, you dont know where to take it????


Theres no one in Texas other than relentless I'd have touch my trannies, and you have a relationship with that shop and have to ask?

You High?
 
you have brought your truck to Chris at Relentless for years, and when you get a truck that has a 47 to be built, you dont know where to take it????<br />
<br />
<br />
Theres no one in Texas other than relentless I'd have touch my trannies, and you have a relationship with that shop and have to ask? <br />
<br />
You High?
Click to expand...
I haven't mentioned Relentless because I wanted honest feedback about others. As everybody knows the trans is a huge check book hickie. I want to go into this without wondering what if.

Cant argue Chris's ability on transmissions and he has gone above and beyond on a couple people that race with his transmissions, people that I know.

Just trying to inform myself with as much knowledge as possible.

Scott, what is your ideal build from Chris? With or without a PCS?

Any chance somebody is in the market for a 05 yamaha royal star deluxe or a Harley Softail???? I need these bikes gone to start my build.

I don't always post to the forum but when I do, I prefer a Kindle Fire
 
If you're working with a 95' 47RH transmission, the PCS controller is useless except for electronically commanding lock-up and overdrive. Gear shifts 1-3 will still be controlled via the mechanical governor weights, line pressure, tv-pressure, and springs in the shift valves.

I personally wouldn't spend money on a PCS controller for a 47rh transmission, rather, install two toggle switches (one for lock-up, and one for overdrive). That way you can control when it hits overdrive and lock-up.

If you want to control all gear shifts, go with a manual valvebody, but pay someone like Goerend, or Garmon, or Prostreet Diesel, or SunCoast to build a full manual valvebody with lock-up in 2nd gear. You need 2nd gear lock-up to be competitive in drag racing. You need 1st gear lock-up if you want to be a top contender.
 
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