I over built my VE fuel system

6 speed 90

Drunken hillbilly
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Oct 20, 2014
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1,195
I've had my new fuel system on my truck for a while now, just figured I would post up some pictures of it and results..

The truck used to run a 14mm VE, air dog 165, 4x.024 injectors and the h1c/hx50 compounds, I loved the setup flat out hauled azz fueled hard down low but... the 165 burnt up twice! Which starved the 14mm and seized it, so I put a well modified 12mm I had on it and decided to get my fuel system corrected.

So I debated going mechanical but figured I'd save the waterman and billet cover idea for later, I've only ever heard good about aeromotive products so I found a A1000.

The setup consists of a A1000, fuelab boost referenced reg, 10 micron fuel filter and filter head, water filter and filter head, (not pictured) beans sump, -10AN feed fittings, -6 regulator return, and all 1/2 lines.

Here is some pictures sorry I took them at night and haven't taken new yet...
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Beans sump installed directly below the factory pickup, Ended up finding the the factory basket in pieces inside the tank.
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Some one prior to me put a draw straw in but never cut it to the right length and it was kinked half shut! Hard starting problem found.
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So that's the setup from tank out of the pump forward, the water sep setup is installed in front of the A1000 before the regulator now.
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Here is the regulator the reference line is now on the left port, I had a temporary fuel pressure gauge/old oil press gauge hooked up to set idle psi. I've got it set a 45psi at full tilt now and a autometer electric press gauge.
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And here is the feed going to my VE, I reused the lines from the air dog because I had replaced them when I got the truck.
I have the IP front seal loc tite'd in, I wouldn't recommend running that much psi without all the seal addressed.
 
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The temporary fuel pressure gauge I set the baseline psi with, the AM gauge is in cab now. I switched my returns around with the tank out, the regulator return line goes into the old trimmed draw straw fitting. The IP return goes to the 3/8 factory return fitting on the pickup.
 
I bet you won't need the boost reference with the A1000. Thinking it'll move enough fuel.
 
Yeah I'm not concerned with the A1000 put enough out. Lol. I just designed this system to put roughly 20 to 25psi out at idle then increase FP with boost,

This was kind of an experimental system to see how it responded to more fuel at higher rpm/boost. If I'm making sense.
 
45psi fuel pressure with a VE??

How are you going to keep the front seal in it?
Chris
 
We'll see how long it stays put, could blow out tomorrow. Loctite is my friend.!
 
Good luck. I use the heck out of loctite holding all kinds of stuff where it doesn't fit anymore. But I think you're asking a bit.


EDIT: Think you should probably put a switch on the boost reference so you don't overstress the seal unless you're set for kill? Like rolling down the road at 10psi puts fuel pressure near 30psi when you don't really need it?

Just an idea if it gets sketchy.

Chris
 
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Good luck. I use the heck out of loctite holding all kinds of stuff where it doesn't fit anymore. But I think you're asking a bit.


EDIT: Think you should probably put a switch on the boost reference so you don't overstress the seal unless you're set for kill? Like rolling down the road at 10psi puts fuel pressure near 30psi when you don't really need it?

Just an idea if it gets sketchy.

Chris

Thanks for the idea. I might give it a try if this seal decides to exit, I staked it in also but we'll see. I also should have mentioned I run a ricer style boost regulator (brass t valve) in the boost line, its there so I change the input psi.
 
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What's the gain of running that much pressure on the VE? Is it something that's worth the Pain of swapping seals and changing oil?
 
Like I said its just an experiment, I've seen high FP numbers to a VE with the same staked and loctite seal, it'll either work or fail.
 
CMIIW, but I thought much over 15psi started screwing with the timing plunger on the VE?
Then there's the case pressure being too high and blowing it apart, too.

Mark.
 
9psi idle and 60-70psi at wot here for the past few years (15-20k miles). Loctite is all that holds mine in.

In my case, I was dropping case pressure to the point it was sometimes lower then my fuel pressure. I have have mine setup to feed through the ip return if case pressure drops below feed fuel pressure. 60-70psi just happened to be where I ended up to even case/fuel pressure out. If that makes sense
 
9psi idle and 60-70psi at wot here for the past few years (15-20k miles). Loctite is all that holds mine in.

In my case, I was dropping case pressure to the point it was sometimes lower then my fuel pressure. I have have mine setup to feed through the ip return if case pressure drops below feed fuel pressure. 60-70psi just happened to be where I ended up to even case/fuel pressure out. If that makes sense

Thanks for the input man! Yeah I know I'm pushing the "limits" but... the trucks runs more smooth and harder higher up in the 2500+ rpm range, my case pressure was all sorts of erratic prior to this system.

And my 12mm was built and designed buy an old friend (RIP) that knew a thing or two about the little VE..
 
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Welcome man! Good lookin setup you got there btw. It'll keep the ve happy for a long long time!
 
Welcome man! Good lookin setup you got there btw. It'll keep the ve happy for a long long time!

Thanks again. I've only wished my truck was as clean and as well set up as yours, if the hx hadn't of ate itself and I wasn't as busy as I've been (had my first child) id have the compounds back together and pictures of that..
 
One really needs to play with the case pressure regulator in order to keep case pressure.

At 7ish psi at wot (running the 15 psi kit) and 77lpm sticks, my pump is able to keep 200+ psi of case pressure at wot, with the ksb on.

Without adjusting case pressure, it was dropping below 80 psi.
 
I should add though, that that is with a 12..... obviously the 14 pumps need a lot of help.
 
For all the trouble you've gone through, you could have put in a stock piston pump and a p-pump.
 
Trouble... well ish more like crap parts I had to replace to make work LOL, for what I have into this truck and all the parts, A timing case, cover, gear, lines, injectors, linkage and good p pump that doesn't need gone through would have cost more.... that's the honest truth.


In all honesty the most expensive thing I've done was my 6sp swap.
 
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