Is your haze this bad with big injectors? VIDEO INSIDE

The 6.7L engine was the first Cummins engine in an on-road application to use a sac type nozzle, and at the time is was the most stringently regulated emissions engine Cummins had produced. So if this can be achieved with a micro-blind sac nozzle, I feel it may be a bit unfair to make an assumption that the nozzle design is the root cause of what you are seeing.

Each truck reacts differently to additional fuel/timing and cone angle alterations, you need to find what works best for your setup, this is often a bit of a pain, but part of the deal.

Wouldnt the injection system etc. make comparing a 12v SAC and 6.7 SAC apples to oranges? Couldnt they tune it out compared to the 12v.

I guess the question would be is a VCO always going to be cleaner then an SAC? Dont the SAC make a bit more power if they are the same size?

I know big injectors and small dvs can cause issues. Would I be better off with smaller injecors and bigger dvs? Im trying to get the best of both worlds, clean power 5x16 SAC probably were not the best choice. :bang

I will try to get the smaller dvs in tonight and see what happens. At night with headlights behind me its even more noticeable.
 
Typically a sac type nozzle can be as clean if not more so than a VCO nozzle, quite a few variables.
 
Typically a sac type nozzle can be as clean if not more so than a VCO nozzle, quite a few variables.

Got ya, ok so I will try dvs and more timing and see if I can come up with a combo that works with these injectors.

thanks
Kevin
 
As unhelpful as it is, some times just trying different things is the best option, just be sure to only make one change at a time.
 
^^^^ This is the only way. I've run more than my fair share of parts through my truck until I settled on the current combination. It is a PITA but the ends more than justifies the means in regards to getting the perfect balance of power, driveability, manners, etc. Good luck!
 
Might I ask why such a low stall. I really believe that has a good bit to do with it as well.
 
that is quite a bit more than just a haze.

I'd be interested in how your in cab pre-boost adjustment is set up
 
Might I ask why such a low stall. I really believe that has a good bit to do with it as well.
That's not haze. That's black smoke. 5x16s ,single turbo,auto(low stall) I think there gonna smoke proly no matter what you do.
BUT, like said previously,play with your setup some and see if it gets better or worse.
 
As unhelpful as it is, some times just trying different things is the best option, just be sure to only make one change at a time.

I understand, its hard to diagnose anything over the computer but thanks Ill keep at it.

^^^^ This is the only way. I've run more than my fair share of parts through my truck until I settled on the current combination. It is a PITA but the ends more than justifies the means in regards to getting the perfect balance of power, driveability, manners, etc. Good luck!
I have followed your builds, good info there. I appreciate the help guess its gonna take some time

Might I ask why such a low stall. I really believe that has a good bit to do with it as well.
yes that makes sense to me, I will look into a looser one. Its what i ended up with I didnt know it was too tight.

that is quite a bit more than just a haze.

I'd be interested in how your in cab pre-boost adjustment is set up

It is a speedo cable with a metric bolt on one end and a knob from autozone on the other end. I can adjust it all the way out and do 1/8th turns in until the truck will move then look out the side view and watch the cars dis-appear behind me. Back it out till it doesnt smoke and it wont light in first at all.

I do plan on going with a lighter afc spring and running a needle valve to the dash in an attempt to be able to tune that from the cab as well. The tight converter seems to be compounding the issue.

That's not haze. That's black smoke. 5x16s ,single turbo,auto(low stall) I think there gonna smoke proly no matter what you do.
BUT, like said previously,play with your setup some and see if it gets better or worse.

I was told to try to find a hydraulic fluid with less viscosity to see if the converter will loosen up a bit.

Does anyone know of a trans/hyd fluid that is thinner then atf?

thanks
Kevin
 
Stock stall is roughly 1800 iirc. Who built your tranny/converter? Im not saying that some tuning will not help, but i can only imagine this setup being smoke regardless of tuning imo.
 
Get a looser converter. It made a world of difference for me.

I see you went with stock stall, how high is that? 2k?

Here is a video of my low stall, towing a boat moving forward at a light. If i mash it to the floor the r's do not raise any more then the 1250-1300. I wish it would...

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McBNH8j7ms0&feature=share&list=UUj8xnC5f46FKmnZv00nZ5MA"]1200 stall - YouTube[/ame]
 
Im running the same injectors and back when I had 191's with an hx52 (mine is a 5spd) but you could run it off idle and accelerate decently hard with only a very slight haze. even with the full cuts I could run it clean on take off, (although a little harder to do lol). but if you wanted, it would absolutely black everything out. But I love the injectors and impressed with their smoke levels. hope it helps...
 
I see three problems, too loose of AFC spring (try a Gov spring) no plate....you can control the low end fuel enough and too much DV.

Jim
 
I see three problems, too loose of AFC spring (try a Gov spring) no plate....you can control the low end fuel enough and too much DV.

Jim

The afc spring is a 180 gov spring and its way too tight. I can mash the pedal to the floor and it will not smoke anymore then it does in the first video. It will not advance the rack until 2k+rpm in first gear. Second gear it lights off fine under 2k. Thats why im going to try and regulate a loose spring so its easily controlled.
 
Stock stall is roughly 1800 iirc. Who built your tranny/converter? Im not saying that some tuning will not help, but i can only imagine this setup being smoke regardless of tuning imo.

Just saw this.

I bought the trans from a ATS dealer in GA it was built with 5 disk billet converter, billet in/out, race vb, billet flexplate etc... I think the converter is so tight because it was built for a vp truck not a p pump. I changed the solenoids and harness in the valve body so it would work with my computer.
 
Just saw this.

I bought the trans from a ATS dealer in GA it was built with 5 disk billet converter, billet in/out, race vb, billet flexplate etc... I think the converter is so tight because it was built for a vp truck not a p pump. I changed the solenoids and harness in the valve body so it would work with my computer.

Damn, my vp truck has a 1800 tripple disk and it works perfect for me. If it turns out to be a straight drag truck then i may go a shade looser. after watching your video, im honestly not sure how you put up with that lol
 
Phil at DPC could change the stall in that converter for you. I think that would solve your problem .
 
Mines a 24v, but I was fighting the same issue. I ran a ultra low(3-400) lower stall converter from SunCoast, I now run a 150rpm lower stall and its night and day difference. Just a little slower through gears under full throttle.
 
Phil at DPC could change the stall in that converter for you. I think that would solve your problem .

I would be interested if ats wont do it. How much do you think it would cost?

Mines a 24v, but I was fighting the same issue. I ran a ultra low(3-400) lower stall converter from SunCoast, I now run a 150rpm lower stall and its night and day difference. Just a little slower through gears under full throttle.

That sounds like the issue then. I would love to fix it. Dvs and tuning will be first but converter sounds like next step.

When im full throttle the converter is locked any way :evil
 
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