Is your haze this bad with big injectors? VIDEO INSIDE

I would say that put the fuel plate back in like mentioned earlier, that is the key to to control low rpm fuelling though the the P-pump is not soooo good in the low fuelling section. Try a # 6ish to start with.

I have the same size injectors, SDX Comp DVs and 18 degrees of timing and heavily tuned AFC and custom plate FF. And a low stall converter. Even if I have twins that does not make a difference in no boost-low boost situations. Mine hazes just a little while cold and practically no haze at all after it is warm. And naturally when I feel young again the air gets temporarily thicker like this (most of the distance on the video driven in 3rd gear):
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bk37eys3c3w"]22102010002 - YouTube[/ame]
 
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Mine is cleaner then that because of the stiff afc spring. Above 10psi its as clean as a blue tec benz.

I thought pre-boost controlled the low end smoke? I can back the pre boost out and it will smoke a little less but the truck is a total turd.

Id love to find a thinner hyd/trans fluid and see if it will get the converter to slip to ~1500
 
A question that I may have missed or has not been asked is where is your AFC housing positioned? Slid forward or aft? I've done all the mods to my AFC to allow for more travel and I run mine all the way aft. Thanks to people like Mr. Fulmer with his threads from many years ago I've learned a lot. Near smoke free runs the best. I have a medium AFC spring from again, years ago and I can limit smoke during hot crappy summer heat and then loosen 15 to 20 clicks during the winter months. Easiest way I have tuned an AFC with a stock or medium spring is with shop air and a regulator. Start by setting the screw that makes contact with the diaphragm so that it just makes contact. Then with shop air get the AFC arm to start moving around 5psi. If its a dog, great! You are limiting your fuel on the bottom end. Loosen 20 clicks at a time. When you go to far it will be obvious. Then tune back until you find the balance you are looking for. If you have not ground off some of the face of the AFC arm you may need to move the housing forward a 1/16" to and 1/8" as it may limit to much in the beginning. Hope this helps.
 
I have tried the afc in a couple spots and it doesnt seem to help, pretty much the same as twistin the pre boost from in the cab. I am going to mess with the AFC this week and see if I can tune some smoke out.
 
Not sure if the sig will show while posting from my phone but I have a similar setup as you and can run clean while pulling 22k. I think you are on the right track with dv's but as other have suggested also I would put the plate back in. I know I do have smaller injectors but pushing a lot of fuel to them also if that makes any difference.

In case it doesn't show.

215 pump set at 500cc
5x12 injectors set at 290bar
62/71/.80
181/210 cam
Marine pistons
Robs dv's
 
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From what I am learning injectors make a big difference.


I did get the new delivery valves installed but I drove home from the shop in the dark so it was hard to tell the difference. I also have not played with the tuning at all so tomorrow will tell.

Thanks Bigblue for loaning me the dvs to see if I like them :Cheer:
 
If I can find the video of when I had the ppump 24v in there with the 66mm and 7x12 injectors it acted similar to your situation. Couldn't find a happy medium with the afc and plate to get the truck to run. Once I got to where it would move the afc, by 40 psi it would drown the turbo.

I believe my issue was too big of an injector. Once I got it out and tore down it was full of carbon in the oil pan and the valves were caked with carbon.
 
There is two things that I have it narrowed down to and that's over fueling or the oil additives. The over fueling and incomplete combustion is what built it up on the valves but the large chunks in my oil pan is what has me lost right now.
 
cumminsman315 said:
What oil additives are you using?
Click to expand...

From the time of the cam and spring swap it has been hamiltons zinc additive minus one oil change that Tyler had tried the rev-x. From all the research I have done so far nothing in the additives could generate the amount of carbon that was in my oil pan.

Still think that they could be part of the issue but they swear it wouldn't cause the amount that was recovered from the pan
 
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From the time of the cam and spring swap it has been hamiltons zinc additive minus one oil change that Tyler had tried the rev-x. From all the research I have done so far nothing in the additives could generate the amount of carbon that was in my oil pan.

Still think that they could be part of the issue but they swear it wouldn't cause the amount that was recovered from the pan
Click to expand...

Piston ring/cylinder wear or failure maybe?
 
Nope engine looks brand new inside. Bearings barely had any scuff marks and the pistons/cylinder walls looked perfect. Everyone I have talked to is stumped at how this got in there.

I have found something about a version of carbon being created with methane and temperatures between 1000-2000 degrees. Which until I purchases this truck it has been driven all around Texas and neighboring states. So that is a possibility.
 
Mine hazes, but it's alot lighter. If I don't lock the converter early and get under the boost it's not too bad(second vid). If i lock early and mash it, it's ugly till the boost comes up. I wanted to stay in it longer to show the level at full fuel and boost but it was starting to go a bit more sideways than I was comfortable with.

P-Pumped 6.7 Smoke Levels - YouTube

RonA
 
RonA said:
Mine hazes, but it's alot lighter. If I don't lock the converter early and get under the boost it's not too bad(second vid). If i lock early and mash it, it's ugly till the boost comes up. I wanted to stay in it longer to show the level at full fuel and boost but it was starting to go a bit more sideways than I was comfortable with.

P-Pumped 6.7 Smoke Levels - YouTube

RonA
Click to expand...

That thing is freakin awesome. I cant belive that was 60 to 90. Its very well behaved (smoke wise) considering its power level :eek:.

Here is mine with some extra pre boost I can make about 10psi before it blows through the brakes at around 1500 rpm. If it was 1700 it would spool instantly. When it went over 1500 its when the tire started sprinning. I held the brakes and mashed the pedal to the floor

Low stall - YouTube


looks like I have some tuning to do
 
Right so test drove my truck today and with no afc foot or plate it was cleaner than that just casually accelerating.
 
BTW wifi on the air plane is the way to go.

Its a little slow, I just waited 10 mins for RonA track video to load but I have watched it 20 times. Well worth the $8 for wifi in the air :D
 
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