lets see pics of traction bars

My buddy told me he went bigger with his to. I never even thought about it. I'm gonna get some axle mounting plates from a junkyard so I can open up the bolt holes and then ill make some 5/8 rods at work.
 
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Lookin for some quick advice or should I say what would the consensus do? I just pulled out my skyjacker add a leafs and put in carli mini packs and my traction bars are about a half inch off for the holes to line up. Looking for ideas to fix it.....

Here are my ideas so far....

1) contact a custom bushing company and have them make a off center bushing. Which I think it would ride a little rougher and the bushing would wear out faster....

2) Hang a leaf spring bracket like this one to be able to line it up which I've only seen ladder bars use. Not sure but read that traction bars transfer axle torque forward and lander bars force torque up to the frame which would make since why they have them.....

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3) Cut off the bushing and weld in a treaded bung to accept a bushing with a threaded end. Only thing is I have a 1 3/8" .250 wall about 1 foot piece of tubing inside a 2'' .250 where the bushing is which is button welded about a foot down the pipe. So if I cut the bushing off then I'd have to drill the button weld to get the 1 3/8" tubing out to weld in a treaded bung in. Then thered be a hole in the tube. Pic of what I'm talking about....

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Sooooo.... Looking for the best route or ideas PLEASE. Before I just build a new set which I really really don't wanna do. Any thoughts, comments, ideas will be appreciated!

Andrew.

Here's a old pic of them on the truck for a idea starter. Thanks guys

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Shackle on a traction bar is a definite no. I would just cut them slide a piece of tube inside and then add a fill in piece on the outside.
 
Yep just drew a picture to stimulate my visual learning and realized that duh

I'm thinking the same. It's just going to be a ***** finding the spot where we button welded it and drilling it out but I could just refill it with weld once the new piece is in there. Might be easier than I think.
 
I would if my welding skills were up to par but they definitely are not. If I was back in PA I'd just have my father fix'em. I'm just thinking what's the easiest route that I can take so that someone here could fix'em with as little work as possible. Wish I new some good fab guys out here! :bang
 
I am gonna build a set with 2 x 2 pipe. And cat. 1 top links. I know, I know I want to make sure they work ok. And if I bend them I will get some DOM.
 
BlackasCoal said:
I would if my welding skills were up to par but they definitely are not. If I was back in PA I'd just have my father fix'em. I'm just thinking what's the easiest route that I can take so that someone here could fix'em with as little work as possible. Wish I new some good fab guys out here! :bang
Click to expand...

I see you're on post, do you have auto craft shop
 
I do, I was planning on going to see how good they are there. I don't really trust my welding. I'm about to go to a offroad place to get some carli limiting strap tabs welded to the front axle. If they do good on that I'll ask if they can weld it all together once I have the new peices fitted and mocked.

Right now I'm just thinking going to order two new bushings and some 1.5" OD .25 wall tubing to slide into the 2" OD .25 wall like before. Now I just have to cut out the old piece. Which should be fun!! Then hopefully find a good place to weld it back together.
 
Talk to your mechanics and see who they recommend. That's how I found someone to weld me jeep. Ended up one of them has nice welder
 
ok, im sure it has been asked and covered plenty of times in this thread, but i honestly got tired of reading through all the post looking for the answers.

is it a MUST to use DOM?
i want to make a set for my Dmax, with the 4" lift it likes to get some axel wrap with the 5th wheel on.
i mainly want the set for towing and when i run at the track, could i get away with some Sch 120 pipe or do it HAVE to get DOM to keep them from bending?
i plan on only making a single bar setup from the bottom of the axel
 
TRUBBS said:
ok, im sure it has been asked and covered plenty of times in this thread, but i honestly got tired of reading through all the post looking for the answers.

is it a MUST to use DOM?
i want to make a set for my Dmax, with the 4" lift it likes to get some axel wrap with the 5th wheel on.
i mainly want the set for towing and when i run at the track, could i get away with some Sch 120 pipe or do it HAVE to get DOM to keep them from bending?
i plan on only making a single bar setup from the bottom of the axel
Click to expand...

No you don't have to use DOM. A lot of guys like the square tubing, it's stronger than regular round tube of the same size. When I've priced it it's been quite a bit less expensive than DOM. Good website to check pricing is Metals Depot. I go there to get an idea on cost and then I buy from a local metals yard. The square tubing inserts for the ends are a hair more $ though than the standard rounds.

I personally wouldn't use .120" myself I'd go .250".
 
Made the decision I'm just goin to take the bars apart get some new bushings, since they're only 18 bucks and some 1.5" .25 wall tubing and redo everything. Took four good guesses and drilled out the button welds, then cut just below the welds to release the inside tube. Got it all apart now just have to order the pieces and find a person to put it all back together.

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