Looking for some advice on a 2wd puller.

Heres a few pics of my 2.6 hitch and my current bar set up. Gonna Re do everything once again for this 3.0 world...

Enjoy:
Picture147.jpg


Picture146.jpg


Picture149.jpg


Picture148.jpg
 
Last edited:
thanks for the pictures, i really understand this stuff better now. i'll get the u-joint shield in the works, and a pulling hitch. the traction bars are gonna wait until after the axle swap.
 
It's funny, my cousin and i have a shop up his house where we do some small welding jobs for people, and we have been planning out my pulling hitch. Then the other day one of our buddies tells my cousin he wants us to build a pulling hitch for his semi. we gotta look up rules for that, in case he wants to pull in a class, besides that i think we have it basically figured out.
 
I beleave you.you at lunch I'm just about to hit the bed.O Vance said he will take 800.00 for the tires if you anyone is interrested.

Dale
 
Alright I got another question on a rear end. What rear end comes in school buses, and would it be worth it to grab one of them. We know the owners of the school bus owners, and i know we could probably get an axle fairly cheap. If it's not worth it i'll just go look at the semi junkyard one of these days.
 
blacksm0king said:
Alright I got another question on a rear end. What rear end comes in school buses, and would it be worth it to grab one of them. We know the owners of the school bus owners, and i know we could probably get an axle fairly cheap. If it's not worth it i'll just go look at the semi junkyard one of these days.
Click to expand...

What year and brand of bus?? Got a cousin that works for a local bus garage that could look it up. I think my rear end came from a 60's model 2 ton truck or bus.
 
Could be worth it depends on the size of the chassie the bus was built on.Some of the bigger school busses had SQHR in them.the rearend Lynn has work out very good also.

Dale
 
not sure, but probably early to mid 90's, they are bluebird usually, and i know some of them have 12v in them.
 
I have one more question to ask you, at least tonight that is. when i put the new rear in the truck, should i move it forward and make my truck the standard length? is there any advantages to this? or should i chop off the extra length from behind the axle and get the hitch as close to the axle as possible? would ether of those be better than what i have now?
 
You need to find out what the rules say for your Org. before you start cutting on the frame.some of the hitch rule have a min,and a max lenth.lynn will know more on the rule for you truck.they are very different on our 2wd superstock.i'm real glad to see you building a 2wd puller.

Dale
 
Hitch rule as Copied From Battle of the Bluegrass pulling seris web site:
Hitch:
The hitch must be a receiver- style hitch. Reinforcements are permitted.
Reinforcements must not extend forward of the center line of the rear axle and
must remain inside the frame rails. The hooking point must be the rear most point
on the vehicle and must be rearward of the stock location of the tailgate. The
hitch must be horizontal to the ground and stationary in all directions. Bumper
may be notched or removed. The hitch’s height from the ground may not exceed
26 inches. The hooking point must have a minimum of 3 inch by 3 ¾ inch inside
opening for the sled hook. The hooking point must be a minimum of 44 inches
from the center of the rear axle, to the end of the hole where the hook touches
metal to be pulled from, this is the hooking point.

In a 2wd the longer wheel base will actually help you. Most places have a limit on maximum wheel base. Some specify factory specs of the type of truck you have. You local rules will specify. Also if you think you will travel some look at everyones rules and make it fit as best you can.
When i went with the 2 ton rear i actually mover my rear end 2 inches father back than factory to keep the 44inch minimum length.
 
alright, so leave it longer. I guess when i swap the axle i'll make it 44" from the center of the axle, i may actually make it 45" to be safe. I don't think my local rules had a wheel base rule. i'll check again.
 
bulldog77 said:
At what power levels do you really have to start to worry about the rear?
Click to expand...

Really depends on track and set up. As discussed before stock Dana 80 parts wont really hold up that well. I started out with a stock 4.10 gear with welded carrier and made 10 hooks or so but was really down on power.. then busted the carrier and shelled the gear set... . axle shafts and 1410 u joints were the next in line to go. When i got in the 4-500hp range it was hard to make anything last over a few hooks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top