My p pump swap.

I'm having hell setting the idle on my gsk on my pump. I've given up and am sending it to seth to let him dial it in.
 
mine was the same way, but i never made any adjustments, it was the linkage on the pump that was moving, some extra return springs and it wouldnt climb above 1000, and now it idles right at 800 all the time.

check to see if you can move the linkage back to the resting position by hand while the truck is running, and see if the idle comes down.
 
When I first did my conversion I used an old 12v throttle cable from a junked truck we had laying around. A week later my idle was sticking at about 1500 rpm's. I found that the old throttle cable had frayed and was sticking.
 
mine was the same way, but i never made any adjustments, it was the linkage on the pump that was moving, some extra return springs and it wouldnt climb above 1000, and now it idles right at 800 all the time.

check to see if you can move the linkage back to the resting position by hand while the truck is running, and see if the idle comes down.

I think i need to get a stiffer spring on it because i did what you said tj by pushing the linkage with my hand and it would idle back to normal. I think my linkage rod also needs to be adjusted slightly.

Never the less i took it for a spin and wow i cant even drive it. The throttle is the touchiest thing on the world, its crazy i only made 200ft outa my driveway and turned around, and once i got it back in my shop i found out that front crank seal is leaking. I even put a new seal in so idk whats up with that so i get to take the radiator and intercooler back off to try and fix that. Oh and another thing it was running really warm, probably almost 220-230 degress. I put coolant in until it was full. What did i mess up there?
 
what gsk in the pump? my 5k's are touchy as hell, a few extra return springs and some practice and it gets better. however i can not drive it when its cold, i have to let it warm up first or its way too touchy
 
I would take the throttle linkage off the pump and lube all the joints. You don't have to pull the radiator to change the front seal.
 
I would take the throttle linkage off the pump and lube all the joints. You don't have to pull the radiator to change the front seal.

Ok so the idle problem has to do with the linkage so thats not a big deal i can mess with that some. And yea josh after looking around some more im just gonna pull the plastic shroud piece out behind the radiator and that should give me plenty of room to get to the front cover and pull it off. I think the only problem i will have after those 2 are fixed is my throttle and how touchy it is. Seth at DPE put a 4k gsk in it but he said he did some tweaking to get more RPMs out of it. I dont know what i need to do but its not even driveable the way it is right now.
 
The twitchey thing is just part of it.


Time to learn how to drive again.....

Well i sure hope i can get it better than it is right now. I dont know how anyone could get use to it. I mean if my foot even touches the skinny pedal it bounces and jerks terribly.
 
Mine was probably worse than yours, I was the only person that could drive it.

Set the right side of your foot on the trans tunnel and control the pedal by rolling your foot to the left. That allows you to give it throttle input more steadily, and keeps the R's from jumping when you hit a bump.
 
Im gonna take a few clicks out and see what that does. Hopefully it gets better. Another question. I just put two breathers in my valve cover and thats all i have for venting since i have the access hole kit. With no blow by tube am i gonna have to put more breathers in? Oh and heres how it looks now.

ppump015.jpg


ppump016.jpg


ppump017.jpg
 
Likely you will.

I would get your VP lines clamps and brackets to add to those lines. Particularly the #1.
 
for more breathing yosh u could go with the 12v tappet cover or a CR valve cover which has an awesome breather on top. my buddy tried a couple different setups for his and the CR cover works great
 
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