Narrowing a Rockwell

Following as I'm going to build one. Wondering if you need the billet pinion support and the ring gear snubber?
 
reddline said:
The stamped factory housing has a good weight to strength ratio, no need for sheetmetal housings, waste of money.

The ones I've seen don't have any carrier bearing caps supports built into them, which means you can't use an alum dropout.
And it's not safe to use even a cast iron dropout with out cap supports.

If you narrow up a stock housing, it ends up pretty reasonable on weight, gonna be certainly lighter than a dana 80 housing.
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What cap supprts are you talking about?
 
Not worth the time and money to do sheet metal in the rear,and if you want to save a few bucks the stock 20-145 will hold up, Keck's has a few options for hubs with stock axles, I think Randy does too
 
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We welded up my stock diff today, kinda impressed how well it turned out and managed to keep it straight. Just waiting on my Proformance pros rear cover and my axle will be pretty much done. I ended up with a SPL100 yoke. Truck shop where I got my 3rd member assembly had one handy for cheap and got it installed.


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700rmk said:
Not worth the time and money to do sheet metal in the rear
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I have a friend in the process of changing his back to the factory housing. The sheet metal rear held so much more oil that it offset a lot of the weight gains plus he was having trouble with some flex.
 
I never have done that, although I usually get the axle gears burned into the carrier really hard which I can't do here. Had one front end that twisted off an axle shaft on a angle, it stretched the end of the carrier and broke the bearing on it without tearing the weld apart. I have weld in between teeth here, it will have to either break a gear or shear ends off the center spider yoke to fully come apart


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Inbred Inline said:
I never have done that, although I usually get the axle gears burned into the carrier really hard which I can't do here. Had one front end that twisted off an axle shaft on a angle, it stretched the end of the carrier and broke the bearing on it without tearing the weld apart. I have weld in between teeth here, it will have to either break a gear or shear ends off the center spider yoke to fully come apart


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This is how I went about doing mine, but this is an eaton DS380.
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RockinRam96 said:
Which axle did you weld? Do you drive yours on the road at all or just trailer? Driving and the dragging the front axle may be difficult on the road.
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That is the rear drive, it drives no differently on the road than it did before.
 
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jones95runner said:
Not a bad price but when you said sheetmetal I guess I assumed full spool also. Thats what ended up driving our last build over the top. Dang full spool was almost 2k. Which would bring a sheetmetal rear over 8k.

I wished I would have weighed the stock housing one I just did. With the alum cover, spindles bearings hubs and all installed I picked it up.by hand and sat it in the back of my truck. I was actually very impressed with how light it was.
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you a$$ clown i can get you full spools and axles significantly less then that now. and all other 20-145 parts. *bdh*
 
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Kecks ,Kenny's and Jeb are all making cool drive line parts a lot more options then there was a few years ago
 
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