NEW ARP STUDS Valve Cover Fit

A

Austincarnut

New member
Have any of you guys ran into fitment issues on the new version ARP studs? They are supposedly made so that the stock valve covers fit nicely without having to machine anything. I cannot fit any of the covers. Are there any aftermarket covers that accommodate the studs?
 
Other than machining the pedestels down, there isn't room.

Maybe try them without the washer under the nuts.
 
Yeah you have to machine the pedestals for them to have the clearance to the valve covers. Some people have tried to do it without machining the pedestals and not using the washer under the nut but I think you’ll have to grind out the valve cover webbing over the stud for that to work. The machining is supposed to be .200” deep, removing the washer is only going to save you about .100”. If you upgrade to the ag dual valve covers with the breather they have more clearance.
 
They’ve been the only style they make for the last 8-10 years. At least that I know of, and you have to machine the pedestals for them.
 
That's what I thought, I have never heard of a different stud set. The vender told me they were a straight install. The problem is not the nut interference, the stud is about 1.5mm too tall. That is with the webbing removed from the valve covers.

Better question: have any of you guys even cut down the block side to achieve stud clearance? I know with their rare space metal material, some compromise is expected when improperly heating the studs.
 
I think you are scratching where there ain’t no itch. I’d bet everyone who has spent the $400 on studs either buys the pedestals machined or takes theirs to be machined. Grinding the stud down just sounds retarded to me. If it is really a deal breaker just sell the studs and over torque a set of factory bolts.
 
bateman, He is saying it's the overall length of the stud itself, if that's the case there's debris in the bottom of the hole or you need to bottom tap to get the depth. Is this on all 6 holes? 1.5mm in english is just under a 1/16 of an inch i would say you can take that off the bottom of the stud if you cant get the hole clean.
 
yes, pencil magnet. or can use a screwdriver with some grease. as for the tap i bet a 1/4 drive would get in there with a tap to clean up. but if hes only missing by 1/16 im betting its just grime down there.
 
Yea I was meaning the tap I bet the 1/4 drive would work. My bolts were pretty nasty when I pulled them
 
I have a spotless threaded block to the bottom of the holes, no debris, no shit interfering. So after a frustrating Q&A w/ ARP, I am now thinking the pedestal studs might be a custom order set that was somehow mixed up. the 6 studs are tapered on the ends. From what I can see on all their pics, the kits show squared off bottoms on the studs. Can anyone confirm this as true?
 
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Pretty sure my 625 studs were threaded all the way to the bottom. I do have a set of a1 studs back in the shop that have a nipple on the bottom before the threads start. A1, H-11 and L19 were supposed to be an equal or close to equal for a 625. were the bolts new in the box? Here is a pic of a haisley L-19 studs for reference.
 

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Late to edit, When you say spotless to the bottom of the hole did you use a standard tap, bottom tap or no tap at all and just blew it out? i bet a bottom tap gets better then a 1/4 inch deeper. Not questioning your ability but have to ask.....
 
tman yessir, I appreciate the feedback, no thin skin here! I have bottom tapped holes to the bottom prior to assembly. I have about 2.25mm interference after remeasuring.
 
Austincarnut said:
tman yessir, I appreciate the feedback, no thin skin here! I have bottom tapped holes to the bottom prior to assembly. I have about 2.25mm interference after remeasuring.
Click to expand...

Might be a stupid question, but are you checking valve cover clearance with a gasket installed ?
 
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