prototype head gasket installed

Man, when there's proven **** out there you think you would just keep rolling with it.
 
Orings will work with a 6.7 mls. Holds 80+ psi of boost no problem.
 
Did you see where the guy said the pistons hitting that piece of blown headgasket caused the head to crack?? I almost fell out of me chair....

Chris
 
lots of steps backwards with none forward lol, going to do things alot different this time. From looking at the rings then looking at the head, you can tell that when the head was set on, that it must have moved, ruined the rings, and it was run like that the whole time, so the next time, rings will be super glued to the gasket. The crack in the head was more then likely there the first time my dumb a$$ didnt bother cleaning up the head real good, and inspecting it the first time. When I put the rings in I didnt even think about making sure the welded part of the ring was facing towards the outside of the head instead, of in between the cylinders. With the rings being like they were, thats what made contact with the pistons, and made the nicks on top of them. Probably just going to replace all the pistons with new ones and get them coated. And get a ported and polished head to throw on it also. Depending on which way I go with the new head will determine if I try the gasket again or not. Might end up with fire rings or orings, but i still want to test it out alittle more even if it means more problems. These type of gasket has been ran in tractor pullers for years with good results. I have a list of things to do different this time lol. When I put the head back on I left the bracket on that goes to the alternator, and had to fight it for a bit so then I just pulled the bracket off, I am pretty sure that is where I messed up the rings. So if I do this all over again the things I will change will be.

Torque the bolts as tight as I can from the get go, and if I do a retorque ill make sure the engine has set over night and had plenty of time to cool. Done alot more research on the bolts now that I should have before I installed. I will do more sequences in torquing the bolts, and give more time in between to help them not stretch. I will super glue the rings in the gasket, instead of just placing them in the gasket when it was set on the block. I should have have my head checked out by a machine shop, but this time I will have a new head so wont have to worry about that. From looking back at it, all the problems that I had, were caused by me and not really anything to do the head gasket or bolts. Like I have stated in my other threads, yes there are proven was to hold, but I am trying to find a working solution for a mainly stock truck, where people dont have to spend an arm and aleg to get what is proven right now. With this set up I am running, bolts,gasket, and rings will run around 300 if you do all the work your self. So if it ends up working good, then that will be alot cheaper, then having to buy an oring or fire ring kit, paying for the machine work, then buying arp studs. I have learned from my many mistakes on this project, plus it was my first time ever pulling a head on a cr. and doing alot of the things I did. I know most people thing I am an idiot for trying it, and wanting to try it again, but with everything done right, it should work good.
 
kmkdiesel said:
lots of steps backwards with none forward lol, going to do things alot different this time. From looking at the rings then looking at the head, you can tell that when the head was set on, that it must have moved, ruined the rings, and it was run like that the whole time, so the next time, rings will be super glued to the gasket. The crack in the head was more then likely there the first time my dumb a$$ didnt bother cleaning up the head real good, and inspecting it the first time. When I put the rings in I didnt even think about making sure the welded part of the ring was facing towards the outside of the head instead, of in between the cylinders. With the rings being like they were, thats what made contact with the pistons, and made the nicks on top of them. Probably just going to replace all the pistons with new ones and get them coated. And get a ported and polished head to throw on it also. Depending on which way I go with the new head will determine if I try the gasket again or not. Might end up with fire rings or orings, but i still want to test it out alittle more even if it means more problems. These type of gasket has been ran in tractor pullers for years with good results. I have a list of things to do different this time lol. When I put the head back on I left the bracket on that goes to the alternator, and had to fight it for a bit so then I just pulled the bracket off, I am pretty sure that is where I messed up the rings. So if I do this all over again the things I will change will be.

Torque the bolts as tight as I can from the get go, and if I do a retorque ill make sure the engine has set over night and had plenty of time to cool. Done alot more research on the bolts now that I should have before I installed. I will do more sequences in torquing the bolts, and give more time in between to help them not stretch. I will super glue the rings in the gasket, instead of just placing them in the gasket when it was set on the block. I should have have my head checked out by a machine shop, but this time I will have a new head so wont have to worry about that. From looking back at it, all the problems that I had, were caused by me and not really anything to do the head gasket or bolts. Like I have stated in my other threads, yes there are proven was to hold, but I am trying to find a working solution for a mainly stock truck, where people dont have to spend an arm and aleg to get what is proven right now. With this set up I am running, bolts,gasket, and rings will run around 300 if you do all the work your self. So if it ends up working good, then that will be alot cheaper, then having to buy an oring or fire ring kit, paying for the machine work, then buying arp studs. I have learned from my many mistakes on this project, plus it was my first time ever pulling a head on a cr. and doing alot of the things I did. I know most people thing I am an idiot for trying it, and wanting to try it again, but with everything done right, it should work good.
Click to expand...


So for a mainly stock 6.7L, what's wrong with the stock gasket that holds 800ish hp??

Chris
 
kmkdiesel said:
Just went out and did quite a few wot runs with it, seeing boost about 35 psi and drive pressure around 55-60 psi, I can tell you right now with my stock head gasket that I would have pushed coolant out of the overflow and the coolant level didnt even move at all now, so its holding better then my stock gasket and bolts were, but I need to get alot more miles on it, and alot more abuse on it also, to say it is working much better, but so far no problems.
Click to expand...

From earlier on in the thread....

I think your doing it way wrong before you even think about wondering why your gasket isn't holding.. That kinda boost to drive ratio is a sign of some really bad tuning and parts combo. First that before you try to keep a gasket together.
 
Signature600 said:
So for a mainly stock 6.7L, what's wrong with the stock gasket that holds 800ish hp??

Chris
Click to expand...

Pretty much if you run any tuning over stock on a 6.7 with the stock vgt turbo, drive pressure will get out of hand. The higher up you go on tunes the more the boost to drive pressure increases. Running on stock they stay 1:1 but as you up the power, to 120,175,225 for example the drive pressure will be over double the boost. Most are gating the stock turboes with an ewg to see no more then 45 psi drive pressure. With out a ewg and stock turbo drive pressure can easily reach 60 psi plus. Most of the 6.7s running around have the basic mods, smarty or h&s with all the emissions deleted with a cold air intake and exhaust. These are most of the trucks blowing head gaskets. The gaskets will hold alot of boost and hp if set up right, but in stock form they wont. Looking at all the options in prices this is a much cheaper route to go, like I posted in another forum, if running the stock turbo like most want to keep because of the exhaust brake, you can go with a stock gasket, arp 425's and a ewg, that would be cheapest route you could go and safe. The price tag on that doing all the work yourself would be $1000. If you wanted to put in 625's then the price would be more in the $1500 range. You could go with for example haisleys fire ring kit for $225, plus machine the head which cost will very alot for that for different shops, then running 425's or 625's your into it at least $1000 depending on with studs you go. Another thing you could do is ditch the stock turbo for an aftermarket one, which alot of done to relieve the bad drive pressure of the vgt turbo, but figure in a turbo, say used $1000, then you would need a manifold, say use a stock 5.9 one $150, then you would still need studs so at least $500 more on top of that, so just replacing the turbo you would be like $1650 into it and thats getting used parts, if you went new, add alot more to it. If you are going to build a high hp sled puller or race truck then its a no brainer on what to do because you would be upgrading the turbo anyways. But to most of the 6.7 owners out there, that just want a deleted truck with a little more power for fun or towing, and dont want to have to worry about blowing a headgasket, this would be a cheap relieable setup for them that wouldnt cost an arm and a leg. By the time I am done testing this, I probably could have had installed a haisley fire ring gasket kit, with 625's and aftermarket turbo. But thats not what I am shooting for.
 
JasonCzerak said:
From earlier on in the thread....

I think your doing it way wrong before you even think about wondering why your gasket isn't holding.. That kinda boost to drive ratio is a sign of some really bad tuning and parts combo. First that before you try to keep a gasket together.
Click to expand...

pretty much explained that in my post above but you are certainly correct. The problem lies in the stock vgt turbo. Running any higher hp tunes with it, drive pressure gets crazy high.
 
kmkdiesel said:
Pretty much if you run any tuning over stock on a 6.7 with the stock vgt turbo, drive pressure will get out of hand. The higher up you go on tunes the more the boost to drive pressure increases. Running on stock they stay 1:1 but as you up the power, to 120,175,225 for example the drive pressure will be over double the boost. Most are gating the stock turboes with an ewg to see no more then 45 psi drive pressure. With out a ewg and stock turbo drive pressure can easily reach 60 psi plus. Most of the 6.7s running around have the basic mods, smarty or h&s with all the emissions deleted with a cold air intake and exhaust. These are most of the trucks blowing head gaskets. The gaskets will hold alot of boost and hp if set up right, but in stock form they wont. Looking at all the options in prices this is a much cheaper route to go, like I posted in another forum, if running the stock turbo like most want to keep because of the exhaust brake, you can go with a stock gasket, arp 425's and a ewg, that would be cheapest route you could go and safe. The price tag on that doing all the work yourself would be $1000. If you wanted to put in 625's then the price would be more in the $1500 range. You could go with for example haisleys fire ring kit for $225, plus machine the head which cost will very alot for that for different shops, then running 425's or 625's your into it at least $1000 depending on with studs you go. Another thing you could do is ditch the stock turbo for an aftermarket one, which alot of done to relieve the bad drive pressure of the vgt turbo, but figure in a turbo, say used $1000, then you would need a manifold, say use a stock 5.9 one $150, then you would still need studs so at least $500 more on top of that, so just replacing the turbo you would be like $1650 into it and thats getting used parts, if you went new, add alot more to it. If you are going to build a high hp sled puller or race truck then its a no brainer on what to do because you would be upgrading the turbo anyways. But to most of the 6.7 owners out there, that just want a deleted truck with a little more power for fun or towing, and dont want to have to worry about blowing a headgasket, this would be a cheap relieable setup for them that wouldnt cost an arm and a leg. By the time I am done testing this, I probably could have had installed a haisley fire ring gasket kit, with 625's and aftermarket turbo. But thats not what I am shooting for.
Click to expand...


I'm not even reading that....spacebar

I know what causes a head gasket to blow...I'm not afraid of my 175hp H&S programmer blowing mine;)

Chris
 
Nic,what makes you say most are gating the stock motors? I havent heard of any....
 
smokin1997 said:
Nic,what makes you say most are gating the stock motors? I havent heard of any....
Click to expand...

There are like 4 companies that make ewg kits that bolt up to top of the manifold where you delete the egr cooler, and you can plum them back into your downpipe. Most the people that have blown head gaskets and still running the stock turbo have gone to this route, and many others have before they blew the gasket. Most say its just a bandaid, but there are alot of threads about it on here, cf,db, and other forums.

I am going to go pull the pistons out tonight, and decided to just mill down the top of the worst one, then mill all the rest of them down the same amount. That will lower my compression alittle and cylinder pressure and help out in the long run. If randy isnt to busy and to far out on work, Ill send them to him and have him do that, and fly cut them so if I run a different came later on I wont have to worry about that, and Ill have him coat the pistons also why he has them.
 
I have been screaming ditch the vgt, ditch the ewg, replace the turbo, studs and all the like on CF for months, it's like talking to a wall. Everyone wants something for nothing.

Nick I wish you the best, however, thank you for showing us how not to do it.
 
Krazeeun said:
I have been screaming ditch the vgt, ditch the ewg, replace the turbo, studs and all the like on CF for months, it's like talking to a wall. Everyone wants something for nothing.

Nick I wish you the best, however, thank you for showing us how not to do it.
Click to expand...

haha not problem and another lesson learned from tonight, i was going to pull the pistons, I jacked the motor up to pull the oil pan and some how my floor jack slipped and dropped the motor and when the motor fell it flipped the oil pan up catching my hand smashing it, so a gash 1 1/2" long and 3/8" deep and 6 stitches later, but luckily its not broken.
 
Krazeeun said:
I have been screaming ditch the vgt, ditch the ewg, replace the turbo, studs and all the like on CF for months, it's like talking to a wall. Everyone wants something for nothing.

Nick I wish you the best, however, thank you for showing us how not to do it.
Click to expand...

you can't tell anybody anything on CF... they either won't listen or the mods will ban you before anybody gets the message! LOL
 
sounds like you are having a rough go of it. I am going to try this gasket out but i have a boroscope that i can make sure the rings are seated before i drop the injectors in. hopefully things will work out better.
 
Compcowboy said:
sounds like you are having a rough go of it. I am going to try this gasket out but i have a boroscope that i can make sure the rings are seated before i drop the injectors in. hopefully things will work out better.
Click to expand...

Like I told rob, might wanna super glue them to the gasket too, so they stay in place better, but that is a good idea, ill do that next time also.
 
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