Pushing water

[Bponci]

He needs to run a combustion leak test as I stated before in my previous post. The restrictor may not solve the issue but it kept my cooling system performance in check.

 

[Joesixpack]

how does a de-gas setup work or look like?

Ideally you fix the combustion leak. If it's pushing at idle and increases with load it's not really a question if it's combustion gas.
In case some missed it it's running an electric pump so it's not going to be a high rpm high pump pressure problem.

On your setup I imagine a degas system would place a canister similar to your overflow up as high as you could near the firewall. This canister would be where your pressure relief cap would be and could be a fill point. I imagine you would still likely need a overflow tank for regulations.

Plumbing the degas tank: A 3/8 hose from the outlet of the head in the highest position to a high swirl position on the degas tank. The bottom of the degas tank 1/2 hose to the inlet of the water pump.

Now combustion gas and a small portion of water flows from the high point to the degas tank, separates and the cap reliefs the gas and coolant goes back to recirculation.
Some oems will put the line on the top of the radiator on the cold side and this lets the gas settle out and cool through the rad first.

Now this would only be practical for a small controlled leak in a casting and would not control a large crack or gasket failure.


On second look is your radiator split in the middle and coolant crosses back to the passenger side?

If this is the case you have a very small flow area and maybe even the electric pump is pressurizing the hot side enough to open the cap? If be interested in cold pressure engine off while the pump was running.

 

[CurtisEmery]

Does the amount pushed out rise directly with load on engine, or does it take a bit for the amount pushed to increase? Or does it go up instantaneously with rpm? Or heat?

How fast is too fast to be flowing through the rad? I would imagine if its flowing that fast, that it would also be flowing that fast through the rest of the block, and not absorbing as much heat either. Maybe the rad is just too small?

Coolant velocity is your friend. I have never heard of too much coolant flow causing lack of heat transfer. Pressure is about the only downside. Slow moving stagnant coolant is prone to boiling. I have ran into this on the duramax heads when using an electric pump.

 

[cranked_dodge]

Well looks like we have a fair bit of testing to do.

Brad,We are going to hopefully get a combustion leak test done today or this weekend. I will let you guys know our findings there

Joe,
Yes our rad flows in from the passenger side and out the passenger side.
We never thought to test it while the engine was off and running the pump to see if it is creating pressure. I will also let you guys know what we find there as well.

Curtis maybe our pump isn't flowing enough?
We are thinking of getting rid of the block mounted water pump and putting an inline pump in as that would be a better water pump vs the block mounted "jegs" pump

 

[CurtisEmery]

It's hard to say. I have never been a fan of electric water pumps in our application. I would rather see the block mounted electric vs the inline. The inline pumps do not perform very well with any restrictions in the system.