Rebirth of Monster Mudder

Thanks. That pit wasn't very deep so it was pretty easy to make it through. I think it only had about a foot of mud, but it was rough. The thing I love about my truck is it shoots through the mud pretty straight, whereas alot of the other trucjs were all over it and up on the banks. Slows them down, but if there are trucks after me, they have a straight set of ruts, so that can help them better me.

I've got to decide which way I'm going this year on gearing. I'm looking at either changing gears or putting a gear vendors in the truck, that way i have a higher ratio for the shallower pits, but have the lower ratio for the deeper stuff.

The truck ran great, only issue I found with the truck is one of the new brake lines developed a leak at the lower connection so I need to pull it and make a new flare on it this week before I race this next weekend.
 
Wow...looks great!!!!

Do you have a feel for how it does compared to last year's truck?
 
Man, that is just the coolest!!!!

Gearing is going to be tough with this set up. Are you running low range?

What were some of the trucks you were competing against?
 
Thanks guys. The trucks I'm racing against are factory blocked, aftermarket aluminum headed trucks. Range of 800 to 1000 hp. The thing about mud racing, half of it depends on what you draw for the run order. Sometimes the pits get better later on and sometimes they get worse. Saturday the pit was good and I ran early in class 4, then it got worse and started getting better towards the end of class 4. 3 of the last 4 trucks placed 2,1,3 in that class.

The truck runs like a raped ape now and can definitely tell the difference in it. I'm going to try and get it weighed Saturday. The truck did weigh around 5700 lbs last year and I was about 1k lbs heavier than the other trucks I was racing against.

Yes, I'm running low range in the truck.

Here is one of the class 4 trucks I beat:

http://mudweiserracing.tripod.com/
 
Had mixed results last night and drew piss poor slots for my runs. I ran 1st in class 3 and 2nd in class 4. Not ideal places to run. I was able to get a good time on my rerun for class 3 (first thru the pit gets a second pass after the second truck through). I placed 2nd in class 3. But my truck was starting to blow thru the trans brake and on my class 4 run, it would only hold the truck till about 10psi and started rolling forward. So I get to pull the th400 in the next week or so and buy a rebuild kit for it and replace all the wear parts.

Here are my runs:

Class 3 first run:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1JHz_pGBI8"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1JHz_pGBI8[/ame]

Class 3 second run:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cwHkydfNN8"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cwHkydfNN8[/ame]

Class 4 run:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Kw5bdIzvu4"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Kw5bdIzvu4[/ame]
 
Pulled the transmission this week and spent yesterday morning going through it and rebuilding it and missed the local race at TRP since the trans was down. Went through it and there was a ton of clutch material in the pan. As we went through it, we found that the intermediate clutch pack was toast. The clutches were burnt up and the steels were purple. So the trans is rebuilt with new steels, clutches and seals. I need to take the converter to get it flushed and flush out the trans coolers as well. While I'm at it, I'm going to run new hoses from the trans to the coolers and get the right AN fittings I need for it.

Friday while I was picking up the transmission filter, the local auto parts store gave me 2 more shelves for my shop that they didn't want. So I've snagged 4 free ones from them and they will have two more ready for me in a couple of weeks.

Finally getting some stuff organized in the shop

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After rebuilding the trans a couple of weeks ago, I made another mud race yesterday and didn't do good. Trans still isn't right. So I'm pulling it again and going to tear into it and see whats up with it.

Here is my class 3 run yesterday.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YF3BgHA3jU8"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YF3BgHA3jU8[/ame]

Here is my class 4 run yesterday.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dVemhT4pLA"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dVemhT4pLA[/ame]
 
Raced last weekend in El Dorado, KS. I had pulled the trans out and swapped the intermediate clutches out for a 4 pack setup and that made the trans better but the trans brake still didn't hold and so at the El Dorado race, I launched in 2nd so I could hold with the brake a bit. Truck pushed thru the brake at 10psi and was slow to take off, but once the turbo spooled up it went hard. Ended up placing 4th in class 3 out of 17 or so trucks and 5th in class 4 out of 15 or so trucks.

I pulled the trans out this past week again (3rd time in 4 weeks) and took it to a trans shop after I took the pressure reading on it.

Park, Nuetral, 1st and 2nd were at 175psi
Reverse 110psi
3rd 75psi
1st with Transbrake 110psi

What they found was the pressure regulator was worn out
The rear planetary was burned up from the reverse band not applying right
reverse band was warped
4 of the 6 bolts for the servo were pulled out and threads trashed

So 800 bucks later I have the bolts heili coiled on the servo
New rear planetary and reverse band
New regulator

Will get the trans installed again this week and test it out in the pasture before the race on the 19th of July
 
Hey bud great looking rig thing looks and sounds amazing. I'm also looking to put a th400 behind a cummins and I looked thru ur threads and found bits a pieces of what's all done to yours if you could enlighten me with the guts your running inside yours so I can have a round about idea of which direction to go I have a builder here in my hometown and I told him I'd try to get what all you've done to yours and let him compare what he's gonna do to the one he's building for me I'd greatly appreciate it
 
I had the transmission built by Art Carr at California Performance Transmissions out in Cali. He built a 13" converter as tight as he could get it. The trans has all billet shafts, upgraded shells and planetaries. Full manual reverse valve body with an external transbrake. He added extra clutches to the forward and intermediate packs.

The season this year has ben so so, with the trans issues it's been hard to be consistant, but had a great last weekend racing it. Placed 1st in class 3 out of 20+ trucks and 4th in class 4 out of 10+ trucks (class 4 trucks are faster than class 3 trucks). I shaved 60lbs off the front of the truck switching to aluminum trailer wheels up front and bought a set of 38.5 x 11 x 16 inch tires to run on the front during my class 4 runs since it allows larger tires. Still need to get the rear tires for that class but with just the fronts it pulled good.

Here are some picks from this weekends race.

IMG_1872-X2.jpg


IMG_1871-X2.jpg


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I'm borrowing a set of 38.5 x 15 x 16 tires and wheel for a race this weekend since I'm running with a different org in a 40" tire class. I'm ready to see how they work. We are racing in Carbondale, Ks this Saturday.

On another note, I've been trying to figure out where to go with my gearing for next season. I really need to go with 5.38's, but of course you can't get them for a dana 70, so I either go with 5.13's or another possibility is to switch over to a dana 60hd or I go another route and mod the engine to turn 5k. It's still a few months before I have to make a decision on it.
 
I vote spinning 5k! Keep up the good work. I love checking out your Facebook page still.
 
Well the season ended a little over a month ago and have started planning/changing the truck for next season.

Ended up 2nd overall in Class 3 and 4th overall in Class 4. Not bad considering all the trans problems I had over the season.

I found out at the last race what part of my problem with the trans brake was, it was the freaking button in the brand new ppp shifter that was causing it to go in and out. I cut the wires and held them together to get reverse and the solenoid worked fine.

I have a few things planned for changes on my truck this winter, plus I'm helping my daughter get her 82 chevy ready to race in the street stock class next year too.

The biggest change on my truck is to change the gearing from running in low and the 3.55's to running in high with 5.13's. Should pick up another 20+ mph wheel speed and be able to launch in first again.

I want to change out the track bar for an adjustable one so I can move the front axle forward just a bit to get it lined up better.

The truck is really hard to get rolling after it sits, I think it's because the rear disc brakes are packed with mud where the ebrake part would go. I need to take them apart and see if that's what is causing this issue and see if I can figure out a fix for it. I may fill them up with foam after I put them back together so there isn't anywhere for the mud to pack in.

I need to purchase some 16x8 aluminum wheels for the 4 back tires I use and drop another 50 lbs off the truck.

The wiring for my switches started giving me issues at the last couple of races so I am going to replace the switch panel, simplify and rewire the truck.

I need to relocate my shifter, it wasn't real comfortable sitting on the floor like it is and shifting it around the gears, so I need to make a pedestal for it.

The single stage paint I used last year to paint the truck sucked, so I've stripped the body down and going to shoot a base/clear on it this time with a better quality paint.

I'm trying to figure out how I can reduce the truck down to one battery. The truck is hard to start when it's cooler because of all the timing, has anyone tried a 16 volt battery?

I plan to pull the trans back out of the truck this winter too after I test the pressures on it and replace all the wear items if the pressures test out. If they don't, I'll probably send it out to have it checked out. I also plan on replacing the transbrake solenoid while I'm at it.

I need to replace the msd magnetic pickup and refab the location for it, since the front grill got it cocked and ground down last season with the new body on it.

Here's the truck as it sits now:

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Here is the logo for my daughter's truck that I designed for her:

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I think a 16V battery would start the truck quicker, but you'd need a regulator that would be hot often to take it down to 12V for everything else.

If I were you, I'd try it with just one battery first. Surprisingly, my truck doesn't do much different with one of two batteries except when it's subzero.
 
From what I've read on the race cars, they didn't have to drop the 16 volts down to 12 volts for anything. I only have pumps, fans and gauges running off the battery. They should all be designed to handle 16 volts because alternators charge at around 16 volts.

I've tried 1 12 volt battery from the rear of the truck before and it was no bueno.
 
I'd replace your starter. For less frequent use, those $100 ebay starters work great and will crank the truck over much faster than an old worn starter.

You might consider using a little ether to get it started, I never thought I'd have a use for it here in Las Vegas but after dropping compression, adding a bigger cam, and cranking injection timing above 30*, I've had to use it more than a couple times.
 
I run a ford 6.0 starter on the truck since I have a GM transmission. I plan on replacing the starter this year as well since I've been having a few issues with the solenoid on it kicking not engaging occasionally. The starter is only 4 years old and has only been in service while the truck was in race only mode.

I have resorted to either occasionally when the weather was cold to get it fired off for a race, hate using it if I don't have too.
 
Big Blue24 said:
You might consider using a little ether to get it started
Click to expand...

They do make those semi truck kits where it holds a can of it, and you have a button in the cab to make it spray. Pretty nice for guys who take out the grid heaters in colder climates.

You could also try running a bigger/better hot line to the starter. Sounds like the length and gauge combo might be an issue.
 
I have 2/0 from bat 1 to bat 2 on + side, with bat 1 ground to the frame at the back, bat 2 is 3/0 and runs to ground on the engine block and another ground from engine block to front of frame in 2/0. The bat 2 + side is 3/0 and goes to a shut off switch at the back and then 3/0 to the solenoid on the firewall and from the firewall solenoid to the starter.

I did that for convenience on powering everything. Now that I'm thinking about it, I think I'm going to run that how wire direct to the starter and take another wire of to the solenoid up from the starter for that solenoid. I've had it smoking in the past trying to start the truck.
 
NakeDiesel said:
I have 2/0 from bat 1 to bat 2 on + side, with bat 1 ground to the frame at the back, bat 2 is 3/0 and runs to ground on the engine block and another ground from engine block to front of frame in 2/0. The bat 2 + side is 3/0 and goes to a shut off switch at the back and then 3/0 to the solenoid on the firewall and from the firewall solenoid to the starter.

I did that for convenience on powering everything. Now that I'm thinking about it, I think I'm going to run that how wire direct to the starter and take another wire of to the solenoid up from the starter for that solenoid. I've had it smoking in the past trying to start the truck.
Click to expand...

That's what I'd do, and you mean in parallel off the starter right?
And I am 99% sure that you're supposed to get more draw using the terminals off the same battery instead of ground on one and pos on the other. I would only hook it up with a pos on on bat and a ground on the other if I was running them in series. I think there is resistance going from copper wire to solder to connectors, and back. I could be wrong, but if I were you, i'd play around with it a little to see if anything helps. I think that starter smoking tells you that it might have been a bit of a resistor.
 
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