School me on TDI's......

biggy238 said:
Sounds about right. Better than I expected at you elevation actually.
My best has been 51 across on I74 from Colorado to nebraska

Monkey Fist Rage
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I don't have quite 1000 miles on it yet but I love this car haha. For only being a 1900cc it sure does have a lot of torque
 
eqa9avy5.jpg
ragusaqe.jpg
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Be ready. :) all four injector lobes and i think 7 of eight valve lobes are down.

Anyone got a crank holding tool i can borrow?

Monkey Fist Rage
 
I recently bought a 2006 Jetta TDI too. What are you guys finding to be the MPG RPM "sweet spot"? I'm averaging about 43 with an auto trans at about 2200 RPM. It's killing me having to ride at 65ish to get it though.
 
biggy238 said:
eqa9avy5.jpg
ragusaqe.jpg
esy3yvej.jpg
a2avapys.jpg


Be ready. :) all four injector lobes and i think 7 of eight valve lobes are down.

Anyone got a crank holding tool i can borrow?

Monkey Fist Rage
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I have yet to use a crank holding tool,
I just line the pointer on the flywheel up, but I do have the AST ones if you would need to borrow!


Sent from my flashscan v2
 
will24 said:
I have yet to use a crank holding tool,
I just line the pointer on the flywheel up, but I do have the AST ones if you would need to borrow!


Sent from my flashscan v2
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Can you find a picture of what mark you are talking about on the flywheel? I hate the idea of having to get that tool somewhere.

Monkey Fist Rage
 
rockytopcummins said:
I recently bought a 2006 Jetta TDI too. What are you guys finding to be the MPG RPM "sweet spot"? I'm averaging about 43 with an auto trans at about 2200 RPM. It's killing me having to ride at 65ish to get it though.
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Mine runs the same average no matter how i drive it.

Monkey Fist Rage
 
I can send you my whole kit in the box if you want to use it... I'll dig up a TDC mark pic shortly.


Sent from my flashscan v2
 
I may have lied... It's looking like the PD engines were the first without the mark on the flywheel. That being said my kit does have both style locks in it


Sent from my flashscan v2
 
I want a diesel gold with huffiesens badly

Sent from my Next7P12-8G using Tapatalk
 
That is the firs time I've seen injector lobes do that!

You should use the crank lock on these, the cam sprocket should be the one turning as the tensioner tightens leaving both the cam and crank locked perfectly however I could see how one could make the minor adjustment if needed.
 
JFettig said:
That is the firs time I've seen injector lobes do that!

You should use the crank lock on these, the cam sprocket should be the one turning as the tensioner tightens leaving both the cam and crank locked perfectly however I could see how one could make the minor adjustment if needed.
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Im not sure how it has done that either. The followers are fine. I guess they were hard enough to survive

Monkey Fist Rage
 
That cam wear is nothing!

Camlobe_zps1e60b161.jpg


Cummins 855 small cam.

Good info here guys. I hope that I can start my TDI search here in a couple months and have one by fall.
 
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Just got home from my first round trip to north Dakota and back, I had half a tank when I left, filled up one time for 53 bucks, and I have a little over ¼ tank left. Tdi's are the schit
 
Hey guys a little help here... So I'm really about 3 months away from buying a car but I was cursing the internet this morning and stumbled across this car.

http://www.cdicars.com/detail.aspx?id=4249727&PrefID=6107&.aspx

Being only about 10 miles from my house I figured I'd go after work. I looked the car over and test drove it. You can definitely tell the car is 12 years old. There are dings and scratches here and there, the hood latch closes hard, hub caps are broken in a couple places and the interior is warn. But after driving it the car is in overall nice shape. Its really what I want.

The dealer said the timing belt has been changed (no paperwork) and turbo was changed 13,000 miles ago (with paperwork from CarFax), tires looked good and the fuel filter has just been changed. The injection pump didn't appear to leak but the side of the engine was a little dirty. Absolutely no rust on the car what so ever, all the lights worked, windows worked, mirrors worked, although a little FUBARed the radio worked. So what do you guys think?

I think he is asking to much for the car, I was going to offer him $6,500 (start low) and go from there, but not pay more than $7,500. I think if I can get it for that I'll buy it.
 
I see a shoddy radiator hose repair here: http://imagescdn.dealercarsearch.com/Media/3695/4249727/1396294987240.jpg

I wouldn't suggest anyone pay any more than $6500 for that car, more like $5500. Very base model, dirty, needs e-brake cable(see vertical hand brake), beige interior(yuck), no proof on timing job, turbo mfg is unknown(easy to verify, accept nothing but genuine Garrett).

Don't forget that you can pay about $12-15k for a 2009-2010 that needs NOTHING. If you paid $7500 for that car, you're going to put $2000 into it, now you're up to $9500, and look at how close you are to owning a 2009. I paid $11k for my 2009 with 95,000 miles on it and minor body damage.
 
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Maybe I'll walk away if I can't get him to come down to $6,500 for the car. Like I said I am in no real hurry to buy, I just stumbled across this one and it is 10 miles from home.

I'm nervous about the cam shaft issue of anything older. Does something in the 2009-2010 range have cam shaft issues? I'd like something as new as possible as long as it fits my budget and doesn't need work. I want a car I don't have to worry about, that I can just drive!
 
The PD engines (2004-2009) are the ones with the bad cams, mine is a 2006, I have all receipts for repairs since new, including a timing belt at 92,000 miles, car is absolutely immaculate, fully loaded package 2 car, and with 103,000 miles I paid 10,500 for it.
 
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