Screamin C/R build

SCREAMIN 5.9

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Joined
Aug 10, 2011
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Hey guys i just sent my 06 block into the machine shop, i blew it up a while ago and sounds like im gonna need atleast one sleeve. thinkin about having each cyl sleeved and set back to stock bore.

now i have done hours of reading and harrassed lots of engine builders on good combinations and high rpm puller motors. my application is a late 70's chev one tonne with a frame off resto. running a brande new nv4500 and a sb750hp 1300tq dual disk clutch. very very hot street truck is whats in mind. its running 38" toyo mts, and 4:10's. i want it to spin 5000 rpm alllllll day long.


so here's the ?'s.

any advantages to running over bore slugs besides the displacement?

im gonna run 12v balanced and shot peened rods, what hp and rpm are they good for? am i out to lunch on my rpm goal. not inclined to spend 45 hun on rods.

-what brande fluiddampr?
-which bearings are best for such an application? race ? stock?
-injector tips? thinkin 120hp max, still wanna tow a trailer now and again...
-valve springs and push tubes? hamilton hd springs and chromoly tubes?
-thinkin of running COLT CAMS stage 5 cam. good for 5k rpm
-will my valves hold out? and keepers? titanium?
-pistons? aries say theirs are no good for street use...
-dual cp3's????
already have a line on a stand alone system and wiring harness so that shouldnt be a problem.
also gonna be running ceramic coated(fins) BD R850 setup. s300/s400


i dont need a 1000hp the truck with the engine in will maybe weight 5000lbs. so if i can keep it straight it will be very fast! i am looking for guidance/ suggestions. and really want to know what those rods are gonna hold.

thank you for the help
 
I think you'll wanna go auto.. that nv5600 won't shift worth of crap over 3200rpm.
 
Sounds like you need to call a shop and tell them what you want to build, and have them build it. You sound a tad bit confused.
 
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......

wouldnt say im overly confused, have worked in an engine shop and well understand how to build and hotrod diesels. sept they were 425hp cats that left our shop making much more then that.

im simply looking for experiences, other peoples experiences. im not in a big rush to sink 15-20 k into my engine and have it blow up cuz my rods arent strong enough or spin a bearing cuz i used stock apposed to race.

the truck is about 80% pavement princess 10% street race and 10% get me to work through any amount of mud. im a rig hand in alberta canada and dont like towing my truck around with a loader and a chain!!!!!!!

and by "fast" i dont mean 24hrs of lemans i mean lay the hammer down and smoke 5.0l's from light to light.

i have a very experienced engine shop building my engine as im to busy to do it myself. he just this past weekend ran a 9.80 at over 140 mps in C/R powered 2wd running BD's r1000 setup with some other tricks. he knows what hes doing and dont doubt his knowledge base.

everything i own is standard and for that reason i wish to keep it that way. plus i paid 2k plus core for the trans and 13hun for the clutch and flywheel. fun factor is through the roof when ur running a standard and when uve spent enough time messing around with both you simply cant beat the throttle response that a standard provides.

tips and hints welcome, thank you
 
i have a very experienced engine shop building my engine as im to busy to do it myself. he just this past weekend ran a 9.80 at over 140 mps in C/R powered 2wd running BD's r1000 setup with some other tricks. he knows what hes doing and dont doubt his knowledge base.

So what rods is he using? :poke:
 
So why didn't you just say Malcolm at harbor city diesel?

Why are you going all the way to BC to have an engine built? There are engine builders right here in Alberta that have CR's running 140mph in 7000lbs 4wd's...

If you are having Malcolm build it, then why not just let him decide what is best for your engine? After all that is what you are paying him for.

To answer some of your questions though:

-There is no way I would run race bearings on a street truck, especially not on a rig truck.

-12v rods are more then enough for sub 1000hp

-5000rpm is impractical for what you seem to want to achieve. Either through a manual or through an auto. CR drag trucks trapping 140mph are only turning 3500-4000rpm. If you want to turn 5000rpm just so you can be the cool kid at the rigs, then sure have at it, just doesn't serve a purpose for what you are trying to build.

-Even with a 1000hp+ you aren't beating a stock 5L (a 14sec car) stop light to stop light on an NV4500, they just don't shift fast enough, and when slammed through gears eat syncro's like swole goes through motors (sorry couldn't resist). You don't have to take my word for it, there are lots of guys on compd that have tried, a simple search will bring you to them.

-38's and stop light to stoplight racing = blown up trannies and rear ends. Hope you are going 14bolt and some decent axle shafts.

This whold build idea reminds me of a saying that was adapted for these parts "A rig pig and his money are soon parted"
 
So why didn't you just say Malcolm at harbor city diesel?

Why are you going all the way to BC to have an engine built? There are engine builders right here in Alberta that have CR's running 140mph in 7000lbs 4wd's...

If you are having Malcolm build it, then why not just let him decide what is best for your engine? After all that is what you are paying him for.

To answer some of your questions though:

-There is no way I would run race bearings on a street truck, especially not on a rig truck.

-12v rods are more then enough for sub 1000hp

-5000rpm is impractical for what you seem to want to achieve. Either through a manual or through an auto. CR drag trucks trapping 140mph are only turning 3500-4000rpm. If you want to turn 5000rpm just so you can be the cool kid at the rigs, then sure have at it, just doesn't serve a purpose for what you are trying to build.

-Even with a 1000hp+ you aren't beating a stock 5L (a 14sec car) stop light to stop light on an NV4500, they just don't shift fast enough, and when slammed through gears eat syncro's like swole goes through motors (sorry couldn't resist). You don't have to take my word for it, there are lots of guys on compd that have tried, a simple search will bring you to them.

-38's and stop light to stoplight racing = blown up trannies and rear ends. Hope you are going 14bolt and some decent axle shafts.

This whold build idea reminds me of a saying that was adapted for these parts "A rig pig and his money are soon parted"

well said
 
LOL!!!!!!!

k well an opinion is like a ass hole everyone has one and i simply want a couple, i dont doubt malcolm at all! i just want to hear about some other builds and what problems have been encountered. i just finished reading a few threads" 900 hp cr build" and others. i have obviously opened my mouth too soon just in chear excitment for the build.

the truck is on the island and i now live in alberta, so because i dont have the time and now live a subdivision with a garage that has an eight foot ceiling and two 69 dodge darts occupying it i dont really have the space to build it.

ill shut up, do some more reading as i just signed on this site. and let the man with the magic do what he does.

diffs are gonna be 05 dodge the rear is a dana 70, d60 up front. gonna eventually do the front swap and convert to coils. already have the diffs. and yes its locked 14b ff in the rear.
 
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diffs are gonna be 05 dodge the rear is a dana 70, d60 up front. gonna eventually do the front swap and convert to coils. already have the diffs. and yes its locked 14b ff in the rear.

Not sure what axles you have...05s have AAM axles...

If you have a Dana 70 for the rear, I would think twice about using it.
 
I think raising the rev limit is a waste of time. Pullers run it so the dont have to shift during a pull. Fast and manuals dont mix. If you're going to throw that kind of cash at the motor, build a stout auto behind it.

12v rods will be plenty strong enough.
 
DIFFS

whatever the f they are, im using them. u guys run tons o jam through them and its not like im gonna drag the thing. i want to run those diffs cuz they have big ring gears, i gotem for cheap and they have wayyyyyy bigger brakes then what i have, and i can have an e brake which i dont have right now, i swapped discs on and didnt use a caliper with e brake shtuff on it.

u guys just look for sh*t to rip on a guy for or what?! high rpm idea, done killed, i thought it would be sweet to have a screamin 5.9. and it would be! if its pointless then cool, as i said i wanted some opinions and im getting some, thankyou.
 
whatever the f they are, im using them. u guys run tons o jam through them and its not like im gonna drag the thing. i want to run those diffs cuz they have big ring gears, i gotem for cheap and they have wayyyyyy bigger brakes then what i have, and i can have an e brake which i dont have right now, i swapped discs on and didnt use a caliper with e brake shtuff on it.

u guys just look for sh*t to rip on a guy for or what?! high rpm idea, done killed, i thought it would be sweet to have a screamin 5.9. and it would be! if its pointless then cool, as i said i wanted some opinions and im getting some, thankyou.

wouldnt say im overly confused, have worked in an engine shop and well understand how to build and hotrod diesels. sept they were 425hp cats that left our shop making much more then that.

Now you sound real confused, just have Malcolm build it, he's on this website also. We should send him a link I guess since you keep name dropping and one upping. LOL

I'm surprised that a engine builder of your great stature and the people you know with the houses with 69 darts up to the ceiling can't answer these simple questions by himself?

Opinions yea we got them, and we know what kind of member you already are with your first few post. Dream killers? Yea we do that too, if your build sounded cool I'm sure plenty of us would want to help you, but it doesn't. You just sound like some snot nosed "I know everything, Diesel power mag sticking out of your back pocket" kinda guy.
 
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