Speakers to overpower exhaust?

gecoveyc

gecoveyc

Diesel Nut
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Jan 25, 2008
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Fellas I know this has prolly been answered somewhere in some distant thread but I couldn't find what I was looking for so don't bother posting up a link to the search tool.

I'm thinking about upgrading my front 6x9 speakers in the doors again and thought I'd ask you guys for some advice on which ones to try this time. I've run Kickers, DB Drives, and am currently running either 6" or 6.5" JL Audios in the front doors. (It's been 2 years since I replaced them last so I forget the specifics) Somebody suggested switching to a 6" or 6.5" instead of a 6x9" and lets just say it was a step in the wrong direction. Also, I do have an aftermarket head unit that puts out quite a bit more power than the stock one I think. It's a JVC Kameleon.

My question is what speakers have ya'll figured out sound the loudest, cleanest, etc. in our loud asss pickups? I'm leaning towards just getting some good JL Audio 6x9s but wanted to ask ya'll first this time just to get some other opinions. I'm not looking to spend a lot of money on this and will not be wiring up amps to them. Just some good 6x9 speakers to attempt to overpower the straight pipe exhaust and stack noise in the cab. Or if you guys insist on 6.5s then I'll look into those too.

Also, if it helps I listen to mostly rock and Texas country music with a lot of guitar and vocals. I have plenty of bass from the subs so do not worry about bass being a deciding factor. Need really good, clean mids and highs.

Thanks guys
 
get a muffler plus fte resonator... I know nothing about speakers though haha
 
Its not the size of your speakers that's killing you. Its the fact that you don't have an amp. You have a slightly more powerful head unit, but that's still way too weak you power good speakers. I listen to the stuff as you. I run Memphis M-Class 6.5's with a Memphis 75x4 RMS. It gets plenty loud and I have a Straight piped manual 12v and my exhaust dumps right under the cab.

You already have good speakers, though. Just put a decent amp on 'em. That should be fine.

You can do a lot better, though. Unbroken will probably cruise through here shortly. He can give you some advice on parts that will make your ears (and wallet) bleed.
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yeah an amplifier would wake it up. looks like you have some decent equipment, just got to feed em some more power. i also have a memphis 75x4 on a pair of 4x6's and pair of 61/2" components and it is stupid loud!!!!!!! works well with the two 1500's powering my 12's.
 
Sounds like I'd be better off keeping my speakers and spend the money on an amp and getting it hooked up to the 6 1/2s and 4x6's I already got. I'll look into this as well. How hard is it to wire up and install an amp to all 4 speakers?
 
not to hard to do, just put a distrobution block where your power comes in and run one power to your existing sub amp and one to the new amp, depending on amp you have and the one you get you may need to replace the fuse you have now that is between the battery and amp(s). you can do the same with the grounds run a block 2 into one, or just ground them seperate. then just another set of rca cables from the head unit to the new amp, run em along side the rca's going to your sub amp, want to try to make sure they do not run along side power wire from battery. then i woud run the speaker wires from amp to the doors or back up to the dash tie in with those and then to the speakers. also the remote turn on can be jumped from the sub amp to the new amp.
 
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I run focal components and jl audio 10's all amped by a fosgate. Very expensive setup, but it'll blow your ears and be crystal clear.
 
Thanks for all the info guys. Looks like I'm just going to amp the components I already have
 
masterp66 said:
works well with the two 1500's powering my 12's.
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what amps and what 12's ? What are the amps fused at ?
masterp66 said:
not to hard to do, just put a distrobution block where your power comes in and run one power to your existing sub amp and one to the new amp, depending on amp you have and the one you get you may need to replace the fuse you have now that is between the battery and amp(s)

Depending on current draw he may have to upgrade wire size. .

you can do the same with the grounds run a block 2 into one, or just ground them seperate. then just another set of rca cables from the head unit to the new amp, run em along side the rca's going to your sub amp, want to try to make sure they do not run along side power wire from battery.

Irrelevant with todays shielded rca cables.

then i woud run the speaker wires from amp to the doors or back up to the dash tie in with those and then to the speakers. also the remote turn on can be jumped from the sub amp to the new amp.
Click to expand...
 
Hello there UNBROKEN I was hoping you'd chime in. Thanks for the info. Any recommendations on 4 way amps? Brand? Power?

I'm guessing a 300 watt 4 channel amp?
 
-JVC Kameleon Head Unit

-Kicker CVR 10" 800 watt Component Subwoofer • Dual 4-ohm Voice Coils • 400W RMS

-750W RMS, Class D Monoblock ZX Series Amplifier ZX Series Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier • 375W x 1 chan. @ 4 ohms • 750W x 1 chan. @ 2 ohms

-JL Audio 6 1/2" Components (Not sure which ones exactly they've been in there for 2 years and I've forgetten the exact model #) pretty sure it's these:
JL Audio C2-650-6-1/2" 2-Way Evolution C2 Component System • 100W Max • 60W RMS

-The rear doors are JL Audio Components as well but I have looked at too many different sizes today and can't remember exactly what size are in there.

I will get you accurate info on what speakers are in the doors tomorrow when I'm at my shop and can take the door panels off.
 
That's more than enough info.
If it were me I'd start looking for a used JL Slash 300/4
That'll be enough power for what you have and will really wake everything up. Not sure how big your power wire back to your amp is, but if it's 4 gauge you're gonna wanna bump that up to 0/1 for power then split it to both amps via a distribution block.
If you wanna sell off the amp you have and keep it simple with one amp a new JL HD 900/5 will run everything you have with the power wire you have in place now....but they're not really cheap and there aren't many on the used market. It has a lower power sub section but still more than enough for the sub you have.
If you add another amp I'd suggest Car Audio Stereo - Car Subwoofers - Car Amplifiers and Speakers for wiring and distribution blocks...their prices are really good on that stuff and they ship super fast. I order from them all the time.
 
unbroken, to answer your question on my setup. i am running stinger 1/0 gauge cable with stinger distro blocks, 4 gauge stinger to the amps and to the ground distro block. fused with stinger 250's anl fuses. running two hifonics 1500's (1500 watts 1 ohm) one to each sub. the subs are re sx's dual 2 ohm wired down to 1 ohm. even with shielded cables still good practice if you can to keep em seperate (even with a good ground)
 
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I hope you're running some cool old HiFonics stuff...their new stuff is sketchy to me.
The new Brutus 1500d is only fused at 120 amps....that's a little light for a true 1500 watt output. Then again almost all the cool old stuff is sketchy nowadays.
 
Here's a question since we're on the topic. These Focals are almost too clear. The S's are piercing. Is there a way to alleviate that a little?
 
Which ones?
My Polyglass set I used for rear fill in the past was very bright but I buried the tweeters behind the seat and didnt worry about it. The crossover had an attenuation switch to the tweeter though.
My K2P 2 ways with the older tweeters were pretty bright. The more on axis they were the worse it got. The older stuff is known to be bright but the crossover should have some switches to attenuate the tweeters.
My KRX3's are a different animal...very smooth tweeter no matter where they're aimed.
For the price i expected they would be better though.
 
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