Trans Brakes

97singlecab

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Mar 12, 2008
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Does anyone use a trans brake ever, or can a trans brake even be used effectively on a high horse diesel?
 
Yes. They'll find the weak link in your drivetrain that's for sure.
 
I know Harvey from J+H has one in his ramcharger and as of the last time I saw the truck was ready to ditch it. Honestly, I don't know, I was planning on running one in the 89. Hopefully someone will chime in.
 
Its not for my truck, my dad is thinking about running one in his 2wd Ford 7.3L. It is a full time drag truck with 33x16 slicks. I just had never heard of one in a diesel application just didn't know if they were worth running or not.
 
Its not for my truck, my dad is thinking about running one in his 2wd Ford 7.3L. It is a full time drag truck with 33x16 slicks. I just had never heard of one in a diesel application just didn't know if they were worth running or not.

if it's running a 4r100 don't waste your time, the junk that is out there don't work correctly for a drag racing application.
 
where did this idea come from?

Totally Suck dont they Ryan... Whats next? Slicks? :poke:
wheelie2.jpg
 
if it's running a 4r100 don't waste your time, the junk that is out there don't work correctly for a drag racing application.

It is a 4R100. We probably won't end up putting one in was just wondering how they worked in a diesel application.
 
i have one in the Ramcharger and yes it does work ,it allowed me to get about 1500 more rpm out of the stall but i could not inch into the beams because once you lock 1st and rev. togehter its enguaged or not and my brakes will not hold back the Ramcharger.If i had all the time in the world in the lights i could get 30 plus psi to 3,000 rpm then release the button and then something cool might happen but for me tire spin and broken pinion. I do have a lot of bugs to work out and most of it is in 60ft mark im runnig a stock fuel plate to the fire wall and AFC to take power out tell i get this this thing out of the hole and i just upgrade my 9inch to 3.40 Pro gears. I hope this helps .
 
i have one in the Ramcharger and yes it does work ,it allowed me to get about 1500 more rpm out of the stall but i could not inch into the beams because once you lock 1st and rev. togehter its enguaged or not and my brakes will not hold back the Ramcharger.If i had all the time in the world in the lights i could get 30 plus psi to 3,000 rpm then release the button and then something cool might happen but for me tire spin and broken pinion. I do have a lot of bugs to work out and most of it is in 60ft mark im runnig a stock fuel plate to the fire wall and AFC to take power out tell i get this this thing out of the hole and i just upgrade my 9inch to 3.40 Pro gears. I hope this helps .

That's the problem most trucks will have right there - if you're trying to leave on the light, you've got to get it mostly lit on the foot brake, creep it in to trip the 2nd light, hit the trans brake, deck the pedal, and hope you build enough by the time the tree comes down.

If your engine won't build fast enough against a fully locked trans input shaft, you'll be left wanting.

We run a Bruno converter drive on the S-10 - it has an integrated trans brake. It takes a lot of work on your low RPM fueling to get them to come up fast, consistently, and cleanly against that much more of a load. Makes for nice hard hits though.
 
We run a Bruno converter drive on the S-10 - it has an integrated trans brake. It takes a lot of work on your low RPM fueling to get them to come up fast, consistently, and cleanly against that much more of a load. Makes for nice hard hits though.

Any reason that you went with the Bruno drive over something like an alchy 3 stage clutch? I know that with a Lenco and that style clutch, you can have something that works similar to a Trans brake.
 
Our 60' time is what were trying to get better. there only around 2.3 right now. A 2wd diesel is definately alot more work to get it to hook than a 4wd.
 
My best wheelies came from the few t-brake launches but my best 60' was still on the foot brake 1.34. 1.36 is the best I recall on the brake but I was told I triped the 60' lights with the back tires? Either way a 2wd can be made to hook very well even w/o great front/rear bias. It's not just tires its the total setup, you have to get the truck to move right and transfer weight; shocks, springs, pinion angle, tires and pressure, they all have to work together and this takes time to tune and learn, and it will be diff. for every race car. Ryan
 
My best wheelies came from the few t-brake launches but my best 60' was still on the foot brake 1.34. 1.36 is the best I recall on the brake but I was told I triped the 60' lights with the back tires? Either way a 2wd can be made to hook very well even w/o great front/rear bias. It's not just tires its the total setup, you have to get the truck to move right and transfer weight; shocks, springs, pinion angle, tires and pressure, they all have to work together and this takes time to tune and learn, and it will be diff. for every race car. Ryan

There definately is alot to it that i'm still trying to figure out. This truck is lowered 5 inches all the way around with procomp ladder bars and slicks. I haven't tried messing with shocks on it at all yet but maybe I should try some stuff there. We need some more track time with it, the last time we were there with it was the first time with the big slicks, one good hard launch with them and the u-joint snapped at the pinion.:doh:
 
Breaking parts I found was a good tuning tool once all those parts are up to the task and its dialed in you will start to go fast. Cheapest way is to go with all the best parts up front I learned that the extreme hard way. Ive broken countless shafts all the tranny internals, yokes, joints, pinions, gearsets, etc... it would seem expensive to buy the best parts up front I know but I can tell you for sure that it's the cheapest way out if you want to go to the track have fun and load it up [drive it on the trailer] when your done. Ryan
 
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